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Question for ScottieGNZ


Guest MegaShaft_2000

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I tried to dyno my car once but the chip I use, the way it is programmed and the procedure used by the dyno operator were not compatible. I use a datalogger and feel I have been doing fine tuning on my backroads and the track. As for how much HP, I calculate it with a formula (quite accurate) that factors in ET, MPH and weight w/driver. With 2,750lbs and a best of 10.36 @ 131.75, the formula spits out 484.8RWHP. How does that compare to a dyno? Since a dyno measures peak HP and the formula is more of an average over distance, I would venture a conservative guess of 500+. Hard to say if that is a good estimate because I do not know how long before I reach peak after launch and regain regain peak between the shifts and locking up the converter. For all I know it could be 525 but the only number that counts to me is useable HP. No point in having a big dyno number if you cannot put it to the ground or have to wait endless seconds to get to peak.

 

I believe throwing dyno HP numbers around for comparison is water-cooler chit-chat. The only meaningful thing about a dyno number is how YOUR best pull compared to your 1st pull.

 

Oops. Long answer to a short question :D

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Guest Zachb55

wow, i never knew you were putting out those sort of numbers. I have always believed more in the few different formulas out there to figure horsepower too, because it really is more of a "how much horsepower are you actually using thing, not just "how much can you make" thing. now i havent really followed your swap too closely scottie, but what mods have you done to your drivetrain to get that power to the ground and not break a lot of stuff?

 

-Zach

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-The shortblock has been freshened up with +.020 Fed Moguls hypers pistons. "OH MY GOSH, those pistons are crap and will certainly blow up" :D :D Just had to get that in. Only other thing done to the shortblock is ARP rod bolts. Those pistons have been in for 2.5yrs with a couple hundred passes.

-The heads are ported iron heads with slightly larger valves (not even worth mentioning) but higher quality and port-matched intake

-Larger TB, 62mm upgraded from a 57mm. Yes, many L28s have larger TBs than me :D

-Larger turbo, 62 compressor and P-trim, but it is actually a hybrid because it has a t3 .63 turbine housing, internal wastegate

-3" mandrel DP and single exhaust

-Massive SX pump and filter, -8 feed, stock Z feed as return, 50# injs and LOTS of octane!

-Cartech FMIC with 2.25"/2.5" plumbing

-Crank up the boost to 24-25psi.

-Careful, diligent tuning

 

Power-wise, that's it.

 

Other: 3200 stall 9.5" converter, shift kit and transbrake, ratchet shifter, 26x9.5-16 Hoosier QTPs on 16x8, front skinnies on 15x3.5, know your car and setup so well you become one with it at the track.

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