Some detail install questions...

[strotter]

OK, I just today got my 327/T5 into my '72. I have a couple of quick questions for those who have been there/done that.

 

1. For anybody who has installed fuel injection, preferably a factory type unit, where did you install the ECM and its associated components? (VSS buffer, VATS unit, starter enable relay, so on). I hope to install an A/C unit at a later date, so the area immediately starboard of the heater is out. I was sort of thinking about creating a false floor on the passenger side and tucking the bits under that. I'd *hate* to lose the glove compartment.

 

2. On an associated note, if you have installed the F.I., did you have to drill out another hole in the firewall? I don't believe it's possible to fit that big old wad of wiring through that one teeny little hole, but if y'all think it's possible, I'll give it a try...

 

3. For anybody, what size is that gigantic nut on the differential input shaft?

 

4. The differential flange supplied by JTR is the closed type, that fits over the bearings. My donor car (an '89 Firebird) used the open type, with the straps that capture the bearings with pairs of bolts. Is it possible to adapt that type of shaft (after it's cut down, of course) to the closed type of flange, or will I need to have an entirely new shaft made up? If not, I'm thinking about having an aluminum unit made up (per a couple of earlier threads about driveline vibration).

 

5. Has anybody ever heard of a heat stove for headers? I like the idea of maintaining the factory functionality, and I'm also thinking it might act as a heat shield for nearby components.

 

6. Finally (at last!) how far aft of the forward bulkhead would be a good distance to mount the JTR radiator bracket? It looks like about 1.5" in the JTR book, but I recall seeing some variations at the Rio Vista meeting. I wouldn't even ask, but aerodynamics is not my strong suit and I don't want to fiddle with it later if I can avoid it. BTW, I'm using one of the "new" radiators JTR recommends, which I believe comes out of some van or other.

 

I'd also appreciate any tips, tricks, or gotchas anybody would like to give me at this point in the swap.

 

TIA,

 

Scott T

[Dan Juday]

Right on Scott. It sure is nice seeing it in there for the first time, isn't it? I should be able to address many of your questions. I did the factory tpi FI swap with a T5 and a JTR kit. On top of that I live 23 miles away from you.

 

1. My ECM and VATS went on the drivers side kick panel just above the hood release cable. Relays went where the battery went when it went to the back.

 

2. Got the whole wad through the teeny hole no problem.

 

3. Don't know, sorry.

 

4. Take your adapter with the driveshaft to the driveline shop and they will press the u-joints in at the same time for cheap.

 

5. Yup, I've heard of them but benefit is probable minimal at best. If you want to shield heat there are better ways to do it.

 

6. The position of the radiator will determine the placement of the lower mount. I picked up the OEM rubber mounts and used them in the JTR mount. Drilled one hole each and it was a nice fit. Be advised that I had to lower my radiator after I installed the hood and found out the cap hit it. I'm running the same rad you are.

 

Also: JTR tells you to use the 3/4" master with Camero slave. They are WRONG. Use the 7/8" and you will not have the problems I did.

 

If you need to come by and look at something just drop me an e-mail.

 

Dan

[Guest gprix1]

Hey Dan,

I met you at the Rio Vista meet and since then I've thought of a hundred things I'd wished I had taken a closer look at on your car (and others). I too have the 280YZ rear flares but also have the 280YZ fronts (vrs. your SubtleZ fronts).

 

We should throw another local meet together soon. Doesn't have to be a big blowout or anything, just something to get together and exchange ideas.

[Dan Juday]

You're not the first to suggest that, Rick. Eric Neyerlin (of Richmond) want's to as well. There is a gal in Lodi named Donna that was here who has done a turbo swap and some custom bodywork. Eric want's to talk more with her. Plus we have to scrutinize Jon’s new diff strap (Antioch). Then there is Ron, Jon promised me he would help with my R200 swap.

 

Ya, we gotta do that. Rio still seems pretty central to all those locals. My car won't be street legal for a while yet. So if you guys want to check it out you'll have to come here anyway. I live across the street from a school so there is plenty of parking (and asphalt, no rust in the dust this time). Only problem I have is my schedule these days. Evenings through the week are out. Maybe a Saturday or Sunday afternoon. Nothing big & fancy this time, just a local get-together with time to talk. You guys let me know what you think and a possible date.

 

Dan

[pparaska]

Radiator placement:

One thing to consider is that you want to seal the radiator core to the radiator support to make sure that ALL the air through the big rectangular hole in the radiator support goes into the radiator core. If you mount the radiator back away from the support, you need to build a duct from the radiator support to the radiator, or much of the cooling air being forced into the grill area at speed will bypass the radiator. Even if you put the radiator up against the radiator support, you need to seal it.

[Guest Craig280z]

Also: JTR tells you to use the 3/4" master with Camero slave. They are WRONG. Use the 7/8" and you will not have the

 

What exactly does this mean? Master and slave......

 

I just got my radiator mounting bracket from JTR and it doesn't seem to fit between the frame rails. It is about 1/4" too long to slide between them. Is this normal? I am using the camaro radiator that JTR said was the best in their previous edition.

 

Thanks,

Craig

[Mike kZ]

Originally posted by Craig280z:

[QB

 

I just got my radiator mounting bracket from JTR and it doesn't seem to fit between the frame rails. It is about 1/4" too long to slide between them. Is this normal? I am using the camaro radiator that JTR said was the best in their previous edition.

 

Thanks,

Craig[/QB]

It fits under the frame rails, not between.

[Dan Juday]

Yup, what Mike said, it goes under. If you use the Camaro/Van rad you need to drop it another 1/4" to 3/8" more for the rad cap to clear the hood. I found out the hard way.

 

JTR says to use a Tilton 3/4" bore clutch master cylinder with the Camaro T5 tranny clutch slave cylinder. The 3/4" unit doesn't move the slave piston far enough to disengage the clutch. So don't buy it, (unless you want to buy mine, it's never been used, well, successfully) buy the 7/8" bore master cylinder. It works great.

 

There, that should clear that up.

[Guest Anonymous]

I'm not sure if there is a difference in bore of the T56 and T5 slaves, but my howe 3/4" bore master/T56 slave works fine, the pedal is easy to modulate and not overly stiff. This is one of those grey area's IMHO, to be safe, go the 7/8" the first time out and you'll probably be happy with it, but in some cases the smaller master will work (just not sure what those cases are, there seems to be no rhyme nor reason for what works in one car, but not so much on another. *shrug* )

 

The JTR mount does indeed go under the rails, and even if you use a griffin or howe radiator instead, it still requires the mount to be spaced down 1/4-3/8" as Dan mentioned. If your building your own, this is one place to depart from exact specs, add the extra mtl in, your radiator and hood will thank you for it.

 

Regards,

 

Lone

[Guest Craig280z]

I understand now. Thanks for the clarification.

 

It seems strange that JTR's radiator mount won't work with the radiator that they say to use.

 

I did see some text in the book that said the design had changed but it didn't give much detail about it. I assume this is what they where eluding to.

 

Thanks again. That beats trying to spread the frame rails out and hammering the mount in only to find out that the hood wouldn't close

 

Thanks again

 

Craig