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Late model heads: should I bother?


Guest zthang43

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Guest zthang43

I've just scored a late model (well, '89) 350 from a 3/4 ton Chevy truck for $125. It runs but has 60# on one cylinder, so it's going to be built up for my Z, to replace that little 4.3 (shoulda done it right the first time). I'm aiming for 375-400hp, and wanted a later model engine for the roller cam.

My question is: are the heads on this motor worth messing with for a performance engine, or should I keep looking for a set of Vortec heads? I can't afford to spend $1000 on some aluminum heads, but I could afford (at some point anyway) $500 for either a set of good Vortec heads to run as-is, or the same amount for porting/polishing/big valves on the heads this motor already has?

What do you guys think? (especially you engine builder guys like grumpyvette).

Thanks for the input.

Dan

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If you really cannot afford the aluminum heads then by all means get a set of worked Vortech heads. Remember what you said earlier, should have done it right the first time..seriously..Vortech heads done right are a good set up, just have them upgraded for the higher lift!

 

Mike

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I just got a set of vortecs at a swap meet with no measurable stem or discernable seat wear for $275, and they came with a GM performance manifold and a set of valve cover adapters and some of those GM performance polished aluminum valve covers with the bow tie and "chevrolet" cast on them, plus pushrods and rockers etc...

I vote look around for the vortecs. they get about $200 usually at the local swap meets here in Pittsburgh and they will help you get the power numbers you're looking for.

Perry

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I second the Vortec heads. It's probably the best head Chevy produced that is affordable to all of us. If you can score a set of early 186 or 041 heads (same casting just slightly thicker spring platforms on the 041 head) they can achieve great results. I have 041 heads that I ported and polished myself and I'm just a hair above 375hp very reliable and very smooth. The Vortecs are about that good right off the bat and don't benifit as much from the port and polish (not as much as my set did). Between Ebay and swap meets, you can score big time.

 

James...

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Guest zthang43

Alright, so evidently my money is better spent on a set of Vortec heads, and running them pretty much stock, rather than having these ported.

 

I'm bummed, I bought this motor for the roller cam, but when I pulled the intake I found out it is a flat tappet cam. Doh! Does anyone know if the block is the same (i.e. can I use factory roller lifters without modifying the block?) This casting number is the only one I see that can be either a roller or flat tappet cam. I just assumed that since it was an 89, it would be a roller cam.

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Now dont quote me on this but I "think" that all 86'+ have provisions for a roller cam. Look on http://www.jegs.com or http://www.summitracing.com to see if they have a kit for a roller cam for your application.

 

Oh and if I were you I would look into a supercharger for that 4.3L. I think a 4.3L with a supercharger would be a hell of an engine. I think 400HP would be easy. It would keep the weight down too. Of course it might be a little out of your price range?

 

Guy

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Guest zthang43

Yeah, the 4.3 with a blower would be cool, but I just don't think it would really be what I want. Those heads on it are so restrictive, too, that by the time I got done putting on a blower (or turbo is how I would go) and getting some good heads, i could just build a smallblock with the same top end power and more bottom end; and the bigger motor would most likely last longer since it's not working as hard.

John Scott had a centrifugal blower on his 4.3 in his Z. He sent me pictures, it seemed pretty cool. I guess he got tired of it though; he said he was building a 383 to replace it. That's probably what I'm gonna do too.

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If the block is ready for a roller cam it will have flat areas machined around the lifer holes in the block. These areas are for the plates which hold the lifters in alignment with the cam. It will also have tapped holes on center in the lifter valley at front and rear for the large spring steel plate used to hold down the alignment plates. also a machined area behind the cam gear with 2 tapped holes for a plate which keeps the cam from walking towards the front of the block. There may be other minor differences but if your lifter holes don't have large flat areas around them it's definetly not roller ready.

Perry

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