Guest bastaad525 Posted October 3, 2003 Share Posted October 3, 2003 Okay I know you need a spacer to run one of these on a ZX intake manifold, what I really want to know (and asked this a couple times in my Megasquirt thread) is how to/how hard to adapt the Z's throttle linkage to the 240sx TB? The more details the better Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mobythevan Posted October 3, 2003 Share Posted October 3, 2003 Jeffs site http://www.angelfire.com/extreme/280zxt/page9.html'>http://www.angelfire.com/extreme/280zxt/page9.html and slownrusty's instructions from zcar..... 240SX Throttle Body Installation On A L28E(T) For Dummies! Well actually I’m the dummy! Note to self: A 4hr installation CAN take 18hours also stick to day job. Hey gang, finally got around to replacing my stock 50mm TB with one from a 1994 Nissan 240SX (KA24DE engine). The 240SX TB is 60mm in diameter that culminates in a pretty significant 20% increase. I figure an engine is an air pump, so the more air you can pump into it that more efficient it makes it. That’s why forced induction works so well – right? I got my 240SX TB from the scrap yard, the car was smashed hard in the front, for $10 I also made sure that I grabbed it with the TPS as well – very important. If you don’t get the 240SX TPS plan on fabricating some fidgety brackets to mount your OE L28 TPS onto the 240SX TB – another pain to deal with, that can be avoided. I am making this breakdown specific to my ’83 Turbo car, but the installation on a normally aspirated will be almost identical. Before you begin ripping out your OE TB, you will need to get a few things, here is a brief breakdown: 1) 1†aluminum spacer with the 60mm opening with 4 pre-drilled holes to mount the new TB on, basically use a KA24 TB gasket as your template. The spacer is required only if you want to re-use the stock linkage, which is what I did. I did not want to fuss and try adapting the 240SX throttle cable to my ZX. I think the OE roller ball linkage on the Z looks damn cool too! Cost : $50 and can be done at your local machine shop. 2) 3-4 plumbing 90o elbows to neatly re-route your coolant lines through the 240SX TB. If you compare the ZX TB and the SX TB, you will see that the coolant necks are pointing in different directions. I highly recommend re-connecting your coolant passages through the TB if you drive your car in any kind of cold weather. Also you will need about 6 small hose clamps and some coolant lines (which you should have laying around somewhere in the garage). Cost: $8 3) You will have to modify your turbo to TB J-pipe. I am running my car non-intercooled for the time being, but only for a short while. I had my J-pipe modified at the local muffler shop, this is done as you want the new TB end of the J-pipe to be the same diameter of the SX TB i.e. 60mm. The muffler shop essentially cut off my old “flared†mouth and welded in a new one. I designed new J-pipe so it does not fit over the TB like the OE unit, but rather butts up against it and then I used a piece of 3†rubber hose I had laying around to “couple†the modified J-pipe to the installed SX TB. Cost: $20 plus another $2 for 3†hose clamps at Home Depot. 4) Metal Oxide carbide grinders, used to hog out the intake from 50mm to 60mm. I used my drill and a borrowed Dremel to accomplish this task. Also you can use these same grinders to clean up any weld slag on the modified J-pipe after you get it back from the Muffler Shop. Cost: $10. 5) 4 new longer metric bolts to mount the SX TB with the spacer onto the intake, I just went to NAPA and they had them in stock with lock washers. Cost: $5 I am going to assume everyone has all the other items needed like a continuity tester, voltmeter, sockets, gasket paper etc etc for the remainder of this installation. So total cost around $100 or less than half of buying a new 60mm unit from some of the Z car specialist stores. Not bad! Ok now that you got all the goodies. Remove the stock 50mm TB and all associated pieces, like: 1) The two heater lines that run through it (watch for some spillage). 2) The TPS connector 3) The vacuum line to the ACCS 4) The little vacuum line to the EGR under the TB And you would have removed the J-pipe already , which is a pain at the turbo end, and you may have to crawl under the car to get to the two 8mm hose clamps. Start by making two gaskets for your SX TB and also one for the new 1†spacer, I had good quality gasket paper at home and made mine from scratch. I guess you could also go to the Nissan dealer and just buy two SX gaskets for ease simplicity. Next shove lots of clean rags into the intake and make sure and shove one down the number one runner, as those filings from hogging out the intake are nasty and the repercussions of getting these nasty things in the engine is something that will make any car enthusiast’s blood crawl! Use the new 60mm gaskets as a template and start hogging! This takes time and precision and make sure all the edges are smooth and neat. Remember air is a fluid that likes to flow dynamically, no sharp edges, steps, etc etc. I recommend using gogles as well. After hogging, remove the rags and clean out all the filings and shavings that would be every where for sure. Check also inside the intake as well to confirm that there are no loose pieces. Mount the first gasket against the intake, then the 1†spacer, then the second gasket and finally the SX TB. Tighten it all down with the new 4 longer bolts. Also make sure the TPS is properly adjusted, check the threads on this website on how to do it. This is an easy procedure, trust me if I can do it, so can you! You will need your continuity checker and voltmeter for this step. Next take 10minutes (I took 30!!) to figure out how to re-run your OE coolant lines through the SX TB. Then start cutting the OE rubber hose and adding your elbows and connecting it all together. Looks simple but took me ages as I was trying to be neat and avoid sharp bends, kinks. You will notice the SX TB has no port for the ACCS so I was worried what to do? I just plugged the ACCS mouth on the intake and car ran fine, no issues, so make sure and have a large enough vacuum cap ready or an old rubber line and a bolt through it to act as a plug. Next hook up your linkage, which is just the one throttle arm. Plus you will need the connection (with the ball end) off your ZX TB and add that to the SX TB, check my pics for clarification (http://www.picturetrail.com/slownrusty) or JeffP’s excellent website (http://www.angelfire.com/extreme/280zxt/) After that time to add the J-pipe, if you did a good job with it should fit easily and use your 3†rubber coupling to connect it to the SX TB. I did a lousy job with mine at the muffler shop (my fault not there’s) but was able to modify it at home (love my grinder with cut off wheel) so it fit really snug. Tighten down with the 3†hose clamps. Hook up the TPS connector, you will have to (unfortunately) slit the factory sheathing on the EFI harness as the connector does not have enough slack to reach. Be super careful as sharp knives and small gauge electrical wires do not mix well. After hooking up the connector make sure and electrical tape everything back to together for protection and use loom protection for further safety. The true test!! Fire it up, listen to make sure no boost vacuum leaks or coolant leaks. Use a rubber tube at your ear and the other end around the TB and vacuum lines, home made stethoscope!! The TRUE test, go prey on some domestic iron! Good luck! You will love the increase in acceleration and mid range and how smooth the car runs. Can’t go wrong. To give you some numbers, Sport Compact Car added a 54mm TB to a Sentra that has the anemic GA16DE engine (stock TB is 50mm) and they picked up 2.5hp at the wheels and similar torque, so I figure this install is good for at least double that, not bad for a 100bux. Any more questions feel free to email me at slownrusty@yahoo.com or see my pics of this install on http://www.picturetrail.comslownrusty. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest bastaad525 Posted October 3, 2003 Share Posted October 3, 2003 wow moby thanks much for that!!! Very thorough just what I needed... but of course, this has made more questions for me! Okay, on my Megasquirt thread someone mentioned that the 240sx TPS is a potentiometer type, which I guess reads exactly what position the throttle plate is in at all times, as opposed to our ZXT TPS's which basically have an on and off position. I had also assumed that the 240sx tps would have a different connector shape on it and that the zx connector wouldn't fit, though there is no mention of this in those awesome instructions by slownrusty. Is it the same connector? Also... he doesn't mention any compatibility problems with the 240sx TPS and the factory ZX ecu... so the ZX ecu can read the totally different signal just fine? Not that big of a deal, as eventually I'm going with the megasquirt, which needs the potentiometer type tps... but for the time being it's out of my budget, whereas I can pick up this throttle body pretty soon I think, depending how much the junk yards want for them (I'm betting I could pick one up for less than $50...). Oh also, what year 240SX should I be looking for or does it matter? Edit: Nevermind that's covered on Jeff's site thanks again moby. Now it just comes down to setting up the linkage... Jeff's description involves using some tools I dont have for cutting the throttle shaft... gonna have to find a way around that or getting the tools needed. Also I'll have to get my hands on the TB and see about setting up a way to adjust idle on the TB, also something Jeff mentions on his site. Moby how did you deal with these two issues? The whole thing looks much easier though now... definately one of my next mods Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kennysgreen280zt Posted October 3, 2003 Share Posted October 3, 2003 The 240sx TPS, at least all the ones I have found, are swtich type. If you get a sentra SER throttle body (like 90-92 style) its a ponetiameter(SP) type and also 60mm. The idle adjustment can be carried out by adjusting the stop on the TB so the plate stays a little more open rather than closing all the way. Also, you wont have to cut the TB shaft at all if you get the TB off of a car WITHOUT cruise control. the shaft is short enough that all you have to do is take off the linkage and the outter return spring on the TB. Leave the inner spring on there, and bolt on the Z linkage in the proper position. HTH ~Kenny Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
yo2001 Posted October 4, 2003 Share Posted October 4, 2003 All the automatic TPS on the 60mm TB came with veriable volt connector on the side if you are looking for something more than 2 step TPS Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mobythevan Posted October 4, 2003 Share Posted October 4, 2003 the 240sx TB I got has two connectors, one that looks like the 280zxt type and that one is a switch. The other is on a wire about 3 inches long and that one is the potentiometer output. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest bastaad525 Posted October 5, 2003 Share Posted October 5, 2003 Kewl thanks guys for the info Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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