yo2001

I went through one turbo which had a wg failure and spiked 25+ psi ( gauge only went that far) 4 headgaskets (oem, turbo, felpro) never broke a ring land. The ring lands are pretty far down on the oem n/a piston so it is more forgiven than more modern engine with shallow ring lands design to save gas and hp. Detonation kills piston though.

Sounds like he's talking about the euro spec pistons. I heard they are slight raise as he mention. I've not checked mine but I got a similar set up those pistons in a N42 block/head combo.

There is a local guy selling a LT1 for $250 in AL. no harness but complete long block

Gabe, be sure to let me know if you are coming back to see the IRL race. I'll be sure to hang out and catch up.

I went since I'm just a mile down the road. I can say I was impressed. 1:10 would be average speed of 120mph I believe. The track is 2.3 miles long. I saw few run off going into the turn 1. Those guys were going at it.

Thanks. Exsactly what I needed to know. I guess I should shorten up the bead and add few extra. Right now, all I have is time and tig welder. lol I can go borrow my friend's millermatic if I must. The rotisserie is to come, right now I'm just trying to weld up what I can reach.

I was hoping someone can teach me few things on the general rule how to seam weld the chassis. How long does the weld has to be? I've been running a bead about 1.5 to 2 inches. What about the spacing between the weld? I'm using TIG to weld, I guess it's acceptable. Do I need to run a second bead to convex the bead? Here is a picture of the weld. Let me hear what you guys think. Thanks

1&6, 2&5, 3&4 I believe. you tie the TDC cyl with the TDB cyl together.

You should be able to use the factory ignition module. I can't remember how to wire it up on the 6 cyc. but the multipoint injection is about the easiest way to hook it up. You have 4 devoted injector drivers on the E6K so you can do 2 injectors per driver and do a batch fire too I think. Also you can may be use a trailing ignitor to make the 6 cyl full suquential. You would need to use two aux output drivers to run extra 2 injectors. I can only tell you vague infomation cause I don't have the manual in front of me. There is a tech forum for haltech on their website should be more helpful

My daily now is a vw golf 8v 2.0l. Mark iv. Under powered but it handles good and fun to drive plus gets 30mpg.

I didn't think of that. Good point. I was thinking it might have been a bad idea due to heat stress from the weld. Too late to go back now though. Can anyone lead me to a good read on where and when to stiffen the chassis?

Welding up the rear strut towers like this? At the time seem like it should help some on the rear strut stablity. Any comment welcome. Thanks.

Looks like the amp is too high and the torch traveling too slow. First what kind of welder are you using, set up? Getting use to your machine sometime takes time. I just finished up flanges to 16ga mild steel pipe and my setup was 90-100amp, 3/3" red 2% thoriated tungsten with pulse set at 1 per 1 sec. Usually use filler on the every other pulse. The pulse really puts the weld in good rythem, if you have it I would use it. On sheet metal work in 20-22 gauges, I'm stepping down the tungsten size to 1/16" and low amp in the 30-40amp. The arc are alot stable with smaller tungsten in lower amp. I do increase the pulse to 10 per sec also. My machine is Miller syncrowave 200.

Is that my old Schroth harness?

Long long away from a finish but made a small progress on my new build today. Added Autopower bolt in Roll bar and Corbeau Forza seat, some painting and scraping the floor pan. Hope to get some welding and sheetmetal work this spring. Two of the Mikunis got cleaned and rebuild, started on the twin pipe exhaust off Clifford Research header. It's almost discuraging to think how much work I have ahead of me.

There was one from oxford listed on craig's list. 73. Don't know nothing about it though. I personally don't like the 240 tail light as much as I like there later ones. The bumpers are easy swap to make a 280z look just like a 240. 260 is even easier and weight about as much as 240

I do know a 280Z for sale but not any 240Z, hardly ever sees one nowdays around B'ham. I do have a 260Z but it's pretty much just a shell, engine, and drivetrain, nothing in between. Do you have the heart set on a 240Z? or you can do 280Z that looks alot like a 240Z with bumper swap and such. Let me know I can probably hook you up. I do know some locals.

I play with kid's stuff for living. haha Exhibit fabricator at a science museum. Picture attached was one of my first task. Yes, it's a dinosour

Is Paeco still in business? I heard the building got bought out. I've not done there personally in long long time though. Charlie at Rebello is a nice guy to deal with.

old topic but my Nismo L9 cam is marked E30.

Don't be scare to get the mig gun (assume) closer to your work. I would turn the welder up as well. The bead should penetrate the metal and not sit on the top of the work

Always look out for a deal close by. I got mine locally from a guy who used it for couple month. The timer had only 1:27 min on it. (now I have doubled it and some) Paid $1400 and walked away with syncrowave 200.

Air cooled torch does seem to get pretty hot pretty fast but I've not had a problem with using WP17 torch. Anything pass 70amp in long bead gets hot enough that I have to use thick glove though. I do like how flexible the cable is on the WP17. Only have about 2 hours seat time on the syncrowave 200 but it's a great unit. I think it's actually a jump from the older 180SD.