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HOLY RUSTED CAR TOPS BATMAN!!


Guest BigWhyteDude

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Guest BigWhyteDude

ok so maybe its not the best tittle but it goes with what i would like to ask you guys:) By the way this is not Z related, so if the admins see fit please by all means delete this.

 

Ok my best friend has a 68 Mustang Coup (Vinyl Top) His dad did a restoration about 10 years ago but it has been sitting in the weather since then. Not really been driven at all. SO now the top is rusted compleatly through and we are looking to repalce it. From the bottom of the windows up. I was wondering how hard would this be to do? We really want to do this but dont really know where to start. We can get a top, windows, and all for $350 shipped so getting it not the problem. We have access to mig and tig welders. We also dont want to spend a bunch of money to pay someone to do this for us.

SO guys that where we stand right now what do you thik we should do :?: ?

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Go to a profesional body shop and find out whats involved, If you are replacing everything including the A pillars, etc you will probably need a jig of some sort to make sure everything mearsures up. If you are already handy with MIG/TIG then you should be halfway there. Good luck.

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Guest BigWhyteDude

hmm thanks for the responces guys, How would i go about making a jig to make sure everything is all square and the like? hmm well i dont really knoe if the A-pillars are rusted through or not but the top is definatly gone. We still have to pull the vinyl top and see exactly how bad it is. THanks guys,

 

Andrew

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Guest BigWhyteDude

well the thing is we want to get rid of the vinyl top all togeather. b/c of how it rusted the top out. The top is rusted so bad i can put my whole fist through it. Not hitting it but the whole is that big.

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You need to remove the interior, and weld in a bar that goes from one side to the other just behind the front seats. Weld it to the top of the door latch side right under where the 1/4 window starts. This will keep the sides of the car from bowing out. Then check how much of the new roof you have, and where you want to cut the old roof to match it.

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Mike has it right with the brace across behind the seats, but being a cautious Olphart I'd also recommend a bar from the front of the door openings to the back, and cross (X) bracing as well. This should keep the top of the door spacing from changing while the top is off, and minimize floor pan twist.

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