jonzer12 Posted November 8, 2003 Share Posted November 8, 2003 Anyone have this book is it worth buying? I sold the motor I had (got amazing deal so I had to sell it) and am at square 1 now. I now thinking of buying a IROC with a WC t5 and doing the swap. I was wondering if this book is as good as the v8 swap manual or if there are better books out there. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Phyte Posted November 8, 2003 Share Posted November 8, 2003 Why buy the whole camaro? Just get the 350 and T-5. Make sure whoever takes it out doesn't mangle the wiring harness. Make sure the motor is out of an 87+ iroc, 85 and 86 weren't availble with a 350. With the 87+ you get the serp belt and its a roller block. Plus the L98 heads can put down some serious power with a good port and larger valves. I'm buying a built L98 TPI from my dad that should put about 350 to the rear wheels. They are really great motors even though they can't breathe over about 4600rpm. I'm selling the TPI and going with an LT1 intake from http://www.lt1intake.com to rev it up to about 6 grand. Phyte Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jonzer12 Posted November 8, 2003 Author Share Posted November 8, 2003 Why do they die after 4600? Is it just head designs or do the stock intake manifolds flow terrible too, I assume by running out of breath you mean that they simply don't enough air to go higher or it another issue? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JKDGabe Posted November 8, 2003 Share Posted November 8, 2003 It's not the heads, it's the fact that the fuel doesn't atomize well enough. Phyte's solution with the different intake sounds like the way to go. I searched the chevy forum on this a while back and found alot, but can't remember it and too lazy to look it up again. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jonzer12 Posted November 8, 2003 Author Share Posted November 8, 2003 I don't see to many v8Z's with TPI motors, I am looking for about 300 bhp, is this economical on a TPI 350? i am guesing I should simply stick with the carb setup, less limitations it seems. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Phyte Posted November 8, 2003 Share Posted November 8, 2003 Why do they die after 4600? Is it just head designs or do the stock intake manifolds flow terrible too, I assume by running out of breath you mean that they simply don't enough air to go higher or it another issue? TPI intakes are made for low end torque. After about 4600 rpm they completely fall on their face because they just can't flow anymore. There is a lot of after market goodies for TPI's like siamese runners, but they cost more then they are worth. You can't beat the low end torque of a TPI because it has such long runners. The shorter the runner the higher the rev range. You can port a TPI base and plenum to get a little more RPM out of it. If you want an engine to rev high and pull hard on the top end replace the TPI with an converted LT1 intake, or something like a TPIS miniram($$) or holley stealth ram. Another option is to save the money and use the TPI. Then apply the money saved towards an ATI procharger Phyte Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dan Juday Posted November 8, 2003 Share Posted November 8, 2003 I don't see to many v8Z's with TPI motors Here's one. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Phyte Posted November 8, 2003 Share Posted November 8, 2003 I don't see to many v8Z's with TPI motors Here's one. Dan, What kind of numbers are you turning out? hp/tq.. 1/4th miles? 60 ft? Also, what did you do about the hood latch? Beautiful car btw! Phyte Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jonzer12 Posted November 8, 2003 Author Share Posted November 8, 2003 I am only looking for about ~300 bhp (not rwhp), I am not interested in Drag racing, I am building a fast street car, do you think (in your experience)the TPI 350 is cost effective and more street friendly than a carbed 350? Also as I am somewhat of a novice mechanic and the Z project is a major step forward as it is that the added complexity of swapping a FI motor is worth it? I would love the opinion from someone who has done it. I don't have the car yet but I do have a heated garage, the suspension and rear end setup I want as well as almost a complete new interior I want to decide on engine plans by january so I will be ready to drop it all into the car as soon as the roads clear and I go pick up a solid car. My goal is to have the car done (driveable, lol) in time for my wedding! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dan Juday Posted November 8, 2003 Share Posted November 8, 2003 My goals are like your's Jonzer. The tpi will make a great engine for your needs.The tough part is finding a good 350 that is not beat up and ready for a rebuild. I looked for months and finally gave up when I found a well cared for low mileage 305. The 305's didn't give up that much power to the 350 in tpi trim. As far a first time swap it's a good candidate. Easier to wire than a LT1, I just finished one of those. Compared to an LT1 the tpi is very cost effective. Just make sure you get the whole harness including the VATS box. I love FI, fires everytime you turn the key and tunes itself. If you get a '90-'92 it's a speed density system and doesn't require intake plumbing for a MAF sensor. You can just mount a K&N filter to the throttle body like on my car. People will argue that mass air is a better system and GM went back to that in '93 with the LT1 but the highest hp tpi's stock were speed density. You will have to find a tranny from another car. The 350's were all auto's and most of the 305 tpi's were too. No big deal there, not a lot of tranny electrical integration like the LT1. Just leave the P/N wire open and you will be fine. I'd recammend the jtr book, helped me. Also Cartech has a tpi swappers guild that explaines how things work and were and what they are. Author is John Baechtel. And absolutely you will need the Helm manual. Tpi is not the motor if you want to drag race or pump it up down the road. Hipo parts are speedy for the net results. But as a solid fast reliable FI motor that looks real cool you can't go wrong. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jonzer12 Posted November 8, 2003 Author Share Posted November 8, 2003 Thank You for the great response, I don't think I will have a hard time finding a good donor motor my city is about half Italian (tend to take very good care of thier cars, its true I tells ya!) and we have a very small car enthusiast population so parts are plentiful and cheap. I looked at a 91 IROC, with 110 on it (kilometers ->~60k miles), absolutely mint and well cared for, I can get the entire car for 3k Canadian, I figure I can pull it in the garage and pull and rebuild the motor over the winter, 3k seems steep for a used motor but I think I can probably sell the tranny (auto) and body for 1500 bucks, the rims alone are probably worth 500. Two quick questions tho what is the helm manual and is the MAF really a big issue to avoid? From your pic it looks like there is enough room to run some intake plumbing without too much trouble. Beautiful engine bay by the way. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dan Juday Posted November 8, 2003 Share Posted November 8, 2003 Sounds like you've found your donor. With only 60k on it why do a rebuild? That motor should go 200k (300+ kilometers?) with no problems. Helm writes the manuals for GM. You order by phone with a credit card. Their # is 800-782-4356. Expect it to be about $100 USD. The MAF is not that big of a deal. Just another item to fab, the plumbing that is. But if you're buying that '91 you won't have to worry about it. When I did the LT1 I bought a mandrel bent 180*x 3"(or 3 1/2"?) exhaust pipe and a foot of some big reinforced rubber hose, a few hose clamps and powdercoated the cut pipe pieces inside and out (you don't want to use unprotected steel pipe after the air filter, rust hurts). All in all it was about $100 to plumb the intake properly. You could still do this to a speed density motor to get a cold air intake. I'm just cheap and lazy, my motor came with the K&N already attached. That motor came stock with 245@4400hp & 345@3200trq, yea baby. Make it breath a little easier with a set of headers and a less resrictive exhaust and you should easily be over 250/350. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wheelman Posted November 9, 2003 Share Posted November 9, 2003 Does the JTR TPI/TBI manual address the LT-1 FI system? I have a donor car (1995 Caprice 9C1 Cop Car) with all the wiring and a 4L60E auto tranny. I'm still debating about the tranny, but I found an outfit that makes a control module that gives you the ability to use push-button switches to up or down shift. The unit is called CopmuShift by HGM. Costs about $1200.00. Anybody heard of it or used it? I found you can get all the wiring diagrams for most newer cars at your local library. Just photo copy them rather than spend the $100.00 for a helms manual. Ken W. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dan Juday Posted November 9, 2003 Share Posted November 9, 2003 The JTR book does not cover the LT1. The Helm manual is much more than just wiring diagrams. It is extremely usefull and well worth $100. If you have any problems it has detailed charts and instructions for diagnosing and correcting them. I wouldn't do an EFI swap without it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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