Guest jjohart Posted December 23, 2003 Share Posted December 23, 2003 Hi, I've had my intercooler, BOV, DSM blow off valve, modified pop off valve and boost control/timer/boost gauge all working properly for a couple of days, but the problem that has occurred since the basic I/C was installed about 2 weeks ago is that, occasional warm restarts produce a Chitty chitty bang bang-like sputtering, which can last 45 seconds or so, in which the throttle pedal has limited effect. My first suspicion is the blow off valve, which was an Ebay 30 dollar DSM piece, since it makes weird noises (like a New Years party horn flaring "har, heahrr" when the car is restarted in below 50 deg. weather). I My mechanic experienced this problem when driving it back into the garage. Restarting doesn't seem to work, eventually the throttle revs the engine up and then it seems to stabilize itself. The mechanic suggested it is either the BOV or the PUV (pop up), but I don't think it is the latter. What else should I look for? Should I just get another blow off valve? The car doesn't seem to be idling that well, a bit unsmooth, but the car was tuned, wires/cap/rotor all new. It is REALLY FRUSTRATING to have these mods messing up my motor's basic settings...does anyone know what's going on? Thanks, and happy holidays John Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest bastaad525 Posted December 24, 2003 Share Posted December 24, 2003 Is the BOV open to atmosphere? Or did you recirculate it. I had mucho problems getting the car to idle decently with the BOV open to atmosphere. I have the BOV from the 1G DSM. They are designed to stay slightly open at idle, and when not recirculated this causes the air fuel mixture reading to go crazy and the idle to bounce like crazy until the car gets going. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest jjohart Posted December 24, 2003 Share Posted December 24, 2003 REPLY: The small hose is connected by a t to a intake manifold inlet, and the large one goes to the turbo, so I guess there's no direct atmospheric venting. The thing I realized is that this car used to stumble a bit on warm restarts..the idle was low, almost enough to stall out. The idle in more recent times (i.e with I/C) is exactly as you describe, but I don't think the BOV is soley responsible, unless it is stuck...is there any way to open it or see if it's not working? The other thing I noticed is the installer put it in at a 45 degree angle, to clear the hood...could that be messing it up? John Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lifegrddude Posted December 24, 2003 Share Posted December 24, 2003 You can check the bov by pulling it off and pressing on the diaphram and see if it binds or not. If you had a couple vacuum caps with a nipple for a vacuum line, you can check to see if the bov holds pressure. Anyway, look around your i/c piping joints, they're the most common cause for air leaks. The only other thing I can think of would be a defective air regulator. John 82ZXT Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest jjohart Posted December 25, 2003 Share Posted December 25, 2003 To last respondent: I had my tech run a smoke check machine through the I/C, and he found no leaks at the I/C..I guess that rules out air leaks. What is an air controller? Also, I should say that my memory is somewhat short, that the car used to occasionally idle rough when restarted warm, but not to the total sputtering non-drivability fits it gives under similar circumstances. To anyone charitable enough to be reading thus far...I was reading the 83 280ZX shop manual, and I read about certain tests a mechanic can run on a car that idles rough, stalls, etc...I noticed that near the bottom, when other things are ruled out, they suggest checking things related to the head, valve seals and the like. Now, my car has already been proven to need head gasket work...there's a moderate amount of oil from the main crank, etc, and two mechanics confer-yep, time to send the head out. The question is, can I get someone to tell me-an educated guess-as to what, if any effect this head problem might be having on the stumbling when restarted? Is it possible? Thanks Happy ZXmas John Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest jjohart Posted December 25, 2003 Share Posted December 25, 2003 I forgot to tell ya, the car needs head work, apparently leaking oil. The 280ZX shop manual has a list of things for a tech to check when the car stumbles, idles rough, etc, and it mentions near the end checking gaskets, valve seats, seals and thus. Is it possible that this is causing my car to restart poorly after warmed up, like something of an oil mess interfering with something inside that head? It is definitely going for head work in 2 weeks. I'm beginning to think I need my head changed as well! Thanks Happy ZXmas John Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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