OK guys please critque this engine combo

[383 240z]

350 bored 0.030 3.75" stroke (383)

5.7" rods

flat top forged pistons 9.5:1 CR

AFR 190cc Aluminum street heads w/76cc chambers fitted with 2.02/1.6 valves

1.6:1 roller rockers

Comp cams Hydraulic roller (pn 12-433-8)

Duration: 236/242* @ 0.050"

Valve Lift: 0.555/0.576

LSA: 110*

Edelbrock Performer RPM with Holley 750 mech. 2ndry double pump

 

This will be installed in the Z, with a T-56 (may keep the 700R4 w/2000 rpm TC) 3.08 gears So what do you all think? I pulled the engine combo from American Speed (they call it the Enforcer 383) I saw that it contained MANY of the parts I have here and I could not complain about the power output I was just wondering how the engine would work in a light car like the Z. Keith

[Guest zfan]

I think it would be pretty strong but worry about the compression with that large of a cam. Maybe I am off on the comp. but when I ran that same cam in my 10 to 1 350 motor with it retarded 4 degrees total it was a dog.

 

That same cam is now in my 383 with it retarded 4 degrees equal to straight up as Comp builds there cams 4 degrees advanced. I have 11.18 to 1 compression and it is a beast.

 

With little tuning and little break in time it went 11.60 at 119 in the 1/4 mile. Should go low 11's easy.

 

Mike

[Heavy Z]

Based on what Don Manzo just did at the track with his 383Z, I'd say you would do fine with a smaller cam. He also has afr heads but with a hydraulic 480/230@.050 109 lc lunati. With an open diff and slicks he ran an 11.7 and with the new limited slip and tires he just ran an 11.165 @ 122mph!!! Your car will scream either way you go, you would have a more streetable car IMO going down a notch.

 

P.S. Your 9.5 compression may be a problem with the bigger cam.

[383 240z]

Thanks guys please keep it coming. Like I said I pulled this stuff from a american speed catalog. I would like to have it taylored to fit the light weight Z chassis and still keep it streetable. I'm no engine designer but I can take advice from those who know more than me. Keith

[Guest 007fastZ]

the set up your talking about should make around the 450-500 range at the crank. Check out Hot Rods website or subscribe to it. Also try car craft or Chevy high performance. Posted in a Car Craft in Aug. 2001 a

ZZ4 crate short block that had

hypereutectic LT1 pistons

GM powdered metal rods

GM forged steel crank

4.00 bore and 3.48 stroke

comp ratio 9.97:1

Comp cams mechanical roller, 242/248 degrees @ 0.050, 0.578/0.584-inch lift

1.52:1 roller rocker arms

AFR 195cc aluminum, milled to 58cc

Edelbrock Victor Jr., with a 1inch spacer

Speed Demon 850-cfm carb

1.75 x3 icnh headers

GM HEI ignition

made 522.9hp @ 6,600 rpm and 454.2 lb-ft @ 5200rpm

so you should put down around those ranges

Chris

[Turbo Meister]

This is a good 500 flywheel hp engine combination. With a slightly larger cam and 10:1 compression ratio my naturally aspirated 383 clocked a best of 11.15 at 123 mph through the mufflers. There never was any engine detonation on 91 octane supreme gasoline. You will not have detonation problems if you run around 34 degrees ignition timing. My Comp Cam had a 108 lobe separation angle and it was installed 4 degrees advanced. Good luck and I hope it will be tested on the dragstrip.

Hanns

[Pyro]

Looks pretty good. AFR heads are great!

 

However, I think your engine would run slightly better with the same intake and exhaust duration. Those AFR heads already have a good intake to exhaust flow ratio. You should add more exhaust duration only if the heads don't flow well on the exhaust side, or if the car is heavy and the engine is small, or if exhaust manifolds are used, or if a blower is used.

 

If you go with the automatic use more torque converter (3000) or a smaller cam. I would use the manual if I were you. I don't like 700r's. FYI, a 2000 stall TC in a light car will be less than 2000 rpm (about 1700)

 

A tight lash solid cam with 230 degrees of duration at 0.050 and 112 degrees LS will supply good street/strip performance. Then, if you need more power at the track, spray a 150 shot of N20.

 

Sanderson Headers (see their web page) make a full length block hugger header that will work on a sbc Z. 1 5/8 header pipes with 2.5 inch pipes then Y into a 3 inch single pipe will work great and sound very cool. Use mandrel bends to get around the diff and a 3" hooker arechamber muffler.

 

Use a 3.90 200r diff.

[383 240z]

Pyro I would consider the R-200 diff except I spent way to much time getting the Dana 44m up into there. Thanks for the bit about the Sanderson headers and the rest of the exhaust. As for the TC I work for a large Transmission company and we build our own converters. The stall speed I noted was the acutal stall speed. not a magazine ad "rated stall speed" Keith

[Heavy Z]

Use mandrel bends to get around the diff and a 3" hooker arechamber muffler.

 

"Hooker Aerochamber."

 

That's my muffler too, I can't recommend it enough. I did add 2 small moroso spiral flow mufflers in the 2.5 sections (after the headers, before the Y-pipe) and the result is perfect for me, not too loud and not too quiet and sounds nothing like borla or flowmasters.

[Pyro]

Sorry, I didn't know you had already been working on installing a Dana 44.

 

In that case, I would not use the 700r with a 3.08 and a cam that big. Change the gear or reduce the cam.

 

Eventhrough, the 700r does have a low first gear, the stift to second gear is a huge step. That trans was designed for a high torque engine installed in a heavy car with a 3.08 diff. And the low first gear helps get a lot of mass moving. The 200r trans would be a better choice if you can get your hands on one. It has a tighter gear ratios but you will still have a cam problem. You should not use a cam bigger that 230 degrees at 0.050" with a 3.08 in a light car. 220 degrees would be even better.

 

I have tried serval 700r in my Z many years ago and had nothing but problems. I used 3 different GER transmissions. I broke the next off the torque converter on the last one I used. Plus that stupid TV cable messes with the carb linkage. I finally installed a GM T5 and now my Z feels much more "sports car like". I guess I don't like the feel of a loose converter on the street. I was using a 8" with 3000 stall which was nice at the track but felt weird in a Z on the street.

 

My car now runs high 11.7's at 120 on slicks (26x8.5), T5, and a r200 3.90 open diff. And 10.7's at 135 mph with a 150 shot of n20. The T5 holds the power as long as slow shifts are used and no full power 5th gear runs. 135 mph was at the top of 4th gear

 

362 cid, 11:1, 292H comp cam, 750 holley, rpm intake, 200cc iron dart heads, full length hooker headers, 2.5 inch dual exhaust, aerochamber mufflers, 10 gal alum fuel cell, and brake line lock.

 

I'm switched over to dual exhaust a few years ago and wish that I hadn't. My car now sounds like a ford mustang. bummer... I really miss the sound of a high rpm engine running through single exhaust.

[383 240z]

I have a built 200r4 here but I think that a T-56 is in the future for this car. I plan on selling the 2 slush boxes and going for the big bad 6 speed!! I have a 700 on my v-8 rx-7 with a 4.10 gear and short tires. I wish I had a stick in that car!! Keith I decided to go with the dana when I priced a good set of gears for my R-200 Keith