Nissan-Fan Posted February 21, 2004 Share Posted February 21, 2004 I have some rust damage on my rear quarter panel, at the edge of the wheelwell, can someone tell me how i bondo this? thanks alot. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
innerware Posted February 28, 2004 Share Posted February 28, 2004 If you post some pics I can probably give you some advice. Bondo might not be the way to go. Maybe some glass fibers and resin. Need to see though. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TomoHawk Posted February 28, 2004 Share Posted February 28, 2004 YOu might even consider one of those rust-conversion paints. I got some from Home Depot to use insider the car in the storage wells. Another tipe I've been using is to mix just a little liquid polyester resin in with the (polyester) bondo. Needs a little extra hardener too (try it first). That way I can spread it super-thin without it curling up. i suggest you prep the panel by sanding with 60-grit paper to the good metal(be careful!), then a thin coat of the thinned filler(bondo) sanding with medium, more thinned bondo to get the shape right, fmedium & fine sanding, then paint. More bondo is better than not enough, IMO. If you go with 'glass cloth, (model airplane) hobby stores should carry thin stuff (1/2oz to 1oz. weight) Maybe some body experts can confirm this or add more tips. You should be able to find this kind of info at a local library. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
love-my-V8-280Z Posted March 12, 2004 Share Posted March 12, 2004 I just did a butt ton of body work on a michigan Z. I like Tiger hair. Its fiberglass with the matt fiber mixed in. you spread it like bondo but its fiberglass and matt mixed. Problem with fiberglass is you cant mold it very well. So even the best body men have to use a thin layer of bondo. So go and grind the rust holes, remove ALL rust, it must look like brand new metal. ruff it up, pack the tiger hair in from the rear and just as it gets kinda hard file the extra off. Than let it get completely hard, maybe 1 hour. Than spread a thin layer of bondo over it. This will last forever! If you complete the project with only one aplacatioin of the bondo you are way above average. It takes me a bunch of on and off before I get it perfect. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
iaconsultants Posted March 12, 2004 Share Posted March 12, 2004 I have done some rust removal, flares, and body kits. Please don't mess with bondo (I know I will get some negative remarks about that), but bondo is like putting some clay on the car and painting over it. Eventually it will be noticed, crack or fall off. Cut away rust from the car. Fiberglass resin and the cloth works well but don't forget to get something called gel-coat which is how you fill in the small imperfections and don’t use bondo. When I put on fiberglass in the past I actually bought some bathtub liner rubber. I know this sounds strange but this works well for me and you can use more flexible materials to do more contoured shapes. You lay the glass into place and use the liner to push and smooth it out once it is starting to cure (when you can touch it with your finger and you leave a finger mark but are not getting the cloth or wet your finger from the resin, the curing area should appear warm to the touch), a small rolling on for art works well to push the liner. Once you have it in place let the fiberglass start to cure (I usually added a little more active hardener to the resin to speed it up), slowly peel the liner off (almost not, making sure not to peel the fiberglass off and then let it cure the rest of the way. After this do your sanding work use some resin to lightly coat and sand again. Then apply the Gel-coat and sand until you get the surface finish desired. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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