95 Maxima Altenator

[Nismo280zEd]

OK here it is. Mods please make this a sticky as this is a frequently asked question.

 

How to change your 50-70amp Z altenator to a 125 amp beast.

 

ok, to answer everybodies question Yes a Maxima Altenator can easily bolt up to a Z engine. I will post pictures of the bracket i made and the installation as soon as i upload the pictures to the site.

 

Here is the basic install of the Maxima altenator.

 

I used the 95 Maxima DOHC (dual overhead cam) altenator, it puts out more power than the SOHC model does. The altenator will run you about 225 without a core, but you can easily change that with a junkyard part.

 

Ok here it is. First thing you want to do is reduce the bolt hole size on the Maxima Altenator to the same size on the z block (6mm?) I did this by going to sears and buying some plastic bushings that fit the bolt size i needed, then simply taped them into mounting holes on the Maxima Altenator. When you tap the plastic bushing into the mounting holes, they might become smaller, in which case simply drill out the center of the bushing to match the bolt size for the z. Note, on the Altenator one of the mounting holes looks like a brass bushing like it can move, it can. When you tap the bushings into this mounting hole it will move, but this is good as you will have to adjust it till it fits on the Z block mount just right.

 

Now you want switch pullies from the serepentine on the Maxima altenator to the V-pulley on the Z altenator. This is easy if you know the proper way to do it. Start my disasembling your brand new Altenator. I believe there are 5 or 6 long screws that hold the top of the altenator to the bottom. You should now have to pieces to your Altenator place the piece with the pulley attached to it in a vice. To do this you will need a couple paint sticks or some other soft wood. Put two paint sticks on each side of your vice, then place the core inbetween them (the big steel piece with triangular pieces). Simply tighten the vise and make sure you hear the wood crack as it is forming to the triangles, this will keep it from slipping out. At this point all you have to do is remove the pulley by removing the nut that holds it on. Now take the pulley off and place it to the side for now. At this point you should follow the same steps to removing the z Altenator pulley. OK now you have to go to sears again and buy some bronze bushings/bearings I used 3 that i picked up from sears (should have the pictures later). These washers or bearings or bushing whatever you choose to call them, simply fill the space in the Maxima altenator of the Z pulley will not rub the casing on the Maxima Altenator. Now with your spacers installed place the Z pulley on the altenator and BE CAREFUL TO CENTER THE PULLEY BEFORE you tighten it.

 

At this point you should have the Z V-belt pulley on the Maxima Altenator, but you still have two pieces. If you look insed the second piece you will see to spring loaded pieces that have a curve on them, these are the brushes that keep contact on the altenator as it spins. You need to compress these into the housing in order to install pice 1 of your altenator into piece 2. if you notice, there is a small hole on both of the brushes. Now look on the back of piece two... there is a small hole. you need to find something about 2-3" long that fits into that hole, I found a long finishing nail lying around in my garage. Ok, you want to take your fingers and compress both brushes into the housing, then with your other hand, slide the nail or whatever you found into the whole from the back through both brushes. This is a bit tricky and takes a little trial and error to get it right if you've never done this before. Now both brushes should be compressed into the housing of piece 2, now you can install pice one into piece two. Slide the housing so both mounting holes line up (the ones with plastic bushings you installed in them) now put the 5 or 6 scres back into the housing and torque to maybe 5-10 lbs max. make sure the screws are all striaght and not going in sideways.

 

Alright, we now have an altenator that will bolt up to a Z! almost...

 

you have to create an extention for your tension bracket for it to work properly with the Maxima altenator. I used a piece of steel angle iron. cut it about 6" attached one side to the timing cover and the tension brace on the other side. the angle iron runs horizontal. you need to cut out a 1" nitch on the top side of the angle iron on the timing cover side so the belt will not rub on the bracket. ( i have a picture of this as well)

 

 

Wiring based on 280z

 

Ok, now the altenator will fit onto the Z. install it the same way you would the Z altenator. Now for wiring. ok... This is fair straight forward. the post on the altenator is the out put post, hook up the old out put wire onto this post. (cut the ring terminal at the end and spread the two prongs apart to make it big enough to fit the post, or install a bigger ring terminal)

connect the old ground wire to the small screw on the back of the altenator. ok, now the altenator has two small prongs on the side of it in a black open space for a plug. These are simply for the gauge in the car. (I tried to make this general to apply to all Z's, i'll post a pic of the 280z wiring)

 

Ok, now your altenator is complete. Mine reads 14.6 at the battery when the car is running. Here is a potential problem, make sure all your wiring is good as it will carry more twice as much amps through it now. Also i've encountered a problem. My altenator actually drained my battery with the car off, now the first time i did this that did not happen, when i got my new altenator for free (thank you lifetime warranty) my second one DID do this. Now from what i've read on this board you can simply install some inline diodes which act like a check valve for electricity.

 

Ok, now you have an altenator that can run your halogen lights, powerful radio, aftermarket fuel pumps, fog lights wipers, and still have plenty of juice.

 

Enjoy,

Ed

[Guest evilodin]

would you have to make all of the same mods to use a maxima alternator on a '79 ZX as on the older Zcars?

thanks

[Guest 79 280zx]

Hi, I just finished building this alternator from the 95 twin cam Maxima. I havn't had enough time to install it, the only hardware store here is ACE. I'll look for bushings this weekend...... The directions went well until it came time to bolt the zx pulley on....I found the Maxima shaft too short. At the very minimum clearence (of the pulley to the body of the alternator) I found that I could not use the lock washer and indeed, had to grind the flanged part of the nut so that I could get more thread on the bolt. Hopefully Lock Tite will live up to it's name!.....I'm very excited about having 125 AMPS!.....Now in the 'fine print' on the above post seems to suggest, that faulty or insufficient gauge wires may burn? I'm confused, won't my fusible link box like do a major meltdown first?

[Nismo280zEd]

Everything SHOULD be ok... but i'm just very over cautious now days since my car caught fire. I ran this mod for several months with no problem or signs of too much electricity going through the wires.

I should also mention as to not scare you off that my car caught fire from a hydraulic leak onto my header, not electrical wiring.

 

I finally everything over here to get some good pics today of all my mods.

I'm not quite sure why you had to grind down the nut and use loctite. maybe the ZX altenator is different. I did not use the Z washer if i remember correctly, I think i used the maxima washer as it was smaller... I'll check today and get some pics to help you out.

 

----I checked when i took the pics today.. I'm not using a washer, and i see no reason to really, the direction the altenator rotates will only tighten the nut. (like your lug nutz on the car once torqued they are good)

-Ed

and yes 125amps is very God like in the Z

[Nismo280zEd]

ok here they are

 

 

 

 

 

 

There ya go

-Ed (sorry it took so long)

[Guest 79 280zx]

Thanks Ed, 'continuing education' isn't that painful at all!

The pulley in the picture does not look like it has all the threads filled either so I guess I'm OK.