Thinking about a 289 or 5.0 swap...

[Guest vodkaboy]

well, i have recently been thinking about a 5.0 or 289 swap into my '77 280Z, but i have a few questions first.

 

I remember hearing that for a couple years in the 80's, the 5.0 had forged internals (or at least pistons), what years were these? are these the most desirable 5.0?

 

what are the most desirable 289s out there? what is typically done to these (i hear head swaps are common)?

 

How about smog? in oregon we dont have an under hood check, but i will still need to get my car to pass a test at the tail pipe. Do the 5.0's or 289's pollute more or less than a moderately out of tune L28E?

 

what all is required (or recommended) to switch over with the engine? will a '77 5spd hold up to the engine, or should i find another one? how about the rear differential?

 

thanks in advance

[wheelman]

The first thing you should do is get a copy of the "Jags that Run" (JTR) Datsun Z V8 swap manual. The manual is biased toward Chevy engines but contains tons of good info that answer most of your questions.

 

I can't answer the engine questions but I'll give you my input on tranny and rear-end.

 

Tranny: Don't plan on using the Datsun transmission. If you go with a Ford power plant then use a Borg Warner World Class T5 from a V8 mustang. It will fit in the drive tunnel and be an easy bolt on. The most difficult part will be replacing the cable clutch mechanism with a hydraulic slave cylinder, but it's been done. These trannys can handle about 300 ft/lbs of torque so unless you really build a stout 289/302 it should be fine.

 

Rear-end: Your 280Z should have an R200 differential which is more than strong enough to handle the output from a 289 or a 5.0. The gear ratio should be 3.54:1 unless it's been swapped. The half-shafts should handle the power as well and if you really want some strength you can convert to CV joint axles from a later ZX.

 

Hope this helps.

 

Wheelman

[Guest dpiatkin]

the ford blocks with forged internals are the 1989-1993 5.0L mustang blocks.... but I believe that it is only the pistons and that they are not as well manufactured as some aftermarket pistons that you could buy, but still an excellent block. the 1994 and newer blocks have around 10 hp less than the earlier versions, but they have an extra 1 1/2" more clearance for your hood... so if that is an issue check out the 1994 and newer 5.0 L's

 

Do not have any idea about the "289" questions, sorry.....

 

A well tuned 5.0 sould be fine with "DEQ" (if it is still those folks who handle the smog checks) and should put out no more or less smog than a poorly tuned L28.... I know that Oregon used to allow headers, and that they burn a little cleaner than stock manifolds do....... if all is done properly and the new engine is well tuned etc... you should pass "DEQ" check fairly easily.... but I have no idea about the rules in Oregon for an engine swap. As for your rear end, it should hold up well to the load of a 302 or a 289, provided they are in proper working order before the swap and in good condition.... probably woud not be a bad idea to give it a quick freshening up while its all apart ( bearings packed, new seals etc...)

 

Good luck with the swap and remember to get lots of photos to help out the rest of us on the SBF swap !!!

[blueovalz]

The most desirable 289 is the HiPo 289 (4 bbl) but it's rare, and expensive, to find the rods which are IMHO the main thing that separates this 289 from all the rest. I've twisted my 289 (for 25 years with different motors) to 7k a lot, and 8K occasonally, using the stock rods with ARP (or SPS a long time ago) rod bolts with no failures except for a broken ring land on a cast piston (yes, I did run cast pistons early on) .