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undercoatings???


ZR8ED

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Ok ok I know that is a swear word for a Z, but.....

 

My 70 has new floors that were not welded very neatly, and I expect to find lots of little gaps etc as well as bad seams etc..

 

Ok I'm not going to restore this car anytime soon..maybe the next owner...I'll let him to a ground up on it.. (it really needs this type of rebuild.)

 

SOOOoooo what can I undercoat the new floor to seal it from water, exhaust, noise etc etc...????? I'd like to keep the car for at least a few years and don't want it to rust out on me, but if it keeps getting wet inside...I'll be just as bad off..

 

Is there a good spray? is there anything that would seal up nicely on the inside of the car..ie rear hatch area? I plan on recarpeting the car at some point, but for now I just want it clean looking inside...well that and no little pin holes to suck in fumes from...

 

Any ideas or recommendations? I've looked at the usual tars and rubberized rocker guards stuff, but am not convinced it is practical to seal out water etc.....

 

Spring is around the corner and I'd like to get this car on the road...getting the z itch....

 

Thanks,

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I used 3M Rubberized undercoating on my car after completely removing all paint/rust and applying several coats of POR-15. At the very least, you are going to have to do a pretty thorough cleaning of the underside of the car to get good adhesion before appling any kind of sealer. In any case, the 3M stuff cured to a pretty smooth, non-porous coat. It'll probably do a fair job of sealing things up. You might consider applying a quality body seam sealer over the poor welds before you undercoat.

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i take it, that the pieces are overlapped, just not flat.

 

working inside the car ...

 

you'll need to hammer em down flat. have some one under the car ( safety 1st, make sure jack stands and such, are all secure ), with ear plugs and a body spoon, a solid piece of metal, to hold opposite the hammering from above, so that you have something to hammer against, keeps the floor from bouncing.

 

flatten the the panels as best you can, the better you get them to mesh the better your seal will be. clean up the floor with a grease/oil free cleaner. might even go so far as to clean with alcohol.

 

go to eastwood or, if you have a body supply shop in your town, go there and pick up some paintable body sealer. if the floor was replaced correctly or close to correctly, there should only be joints, not gaps. use the body sealer to seal the joints. you can get brush on or use a caulking gun.

 

once the joints are sealed, paint the inside with a rust resistant paint.

 

once you have the inside the way you want it. there is spray on under coating ... once again, under the car. safety googles, dust filter, gloves, ect. do a basic cleaning, soap and water, large scrub brush. rinse as much as you can. let it dry throughly.

 

the undercoating comes in a spray can. you can spray it on from underneath, much easier than brushing it on. makes a hell of a mess, mask and tape off anything you don't want covered with tar.

 

usually, just spraying undercoating will not keep exhaust fumes, and other road dirt from entering the passenger compartment. it's best to seal the joints from the inside as well as you can. i wouldn't trust undercoating to do that.

 

best of luck, wayne

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Thanks for the ideas!

 

You are correct the floors overlap the old steel where they are welded.. the welds are very messy, and obviously spot welded (some long seam welds, some are spots) I can't see any obvious holes, but I know that it will rust between the joints when it gets moisture in there...

The floors are overkill, but look sloppy....

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Guest Carwood

You may want to consider a product called Rust Bullet. It requires 2 coats to seal it, but it has proven the be the best protection against rust in an independent lab....even better than POR 15...according to the site. Just do search for "Rust Bullet."

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