Guest Anonymous Posted October 18, 2000 Share Posted October 18, 2000 I hope this is the appropriate board for this, if not, forgive my ignorance I've recently decided I want to do a 240Z v8 swap....I've been reading all the stuff I can find online and am going to order the JTR manual.....I still haven't decided on an engine and tranny, as this will be determined by what is available locally and in my $$$ range (I'm a poor college kid with a car addiction) but it will be some form of chevy v8....I live in Albuquerque, NM, and will be going down to Mr. Z on friday to look at the cars they have available, in an attempt to find a good car under $1000.....my question is: what should I look for exactly?...I'm a honda guy, and really have no experience with either older cars or Z's or v8's, so this is mostly all new stuff to me (part of why I'm enjoying it so much)....other than a straight body, no (or minimal) dents, and no (or minimal) rust, what else do I want?....please be as specific as possible Thanks a Ton! Brian P.S. After I go look at the cars, I'll come back and report back to you gals and guys about the cars I've found, and what prices they want and how reasonable those prices are Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Drax240z Posted October 18, 2000 Share Posted October 18, 2000 Hey Brian. Not sure if you are looking for a running car or a shell. If you do plan to do the chevy swap a shell would probably be easier, though with a running car you may get enough $$$ from selling the engine/tranny to pay for a bit of extra cost. If I were in your shoes, what I'd be looking for is rust. Or more accurately, no rust! Check the frame rails, floorboards, inner fenders, under the hatch, etc. I wouldn't worry as much about body rust, since all but the rear of the car can be swapped with good quality parts. Also please consider that you are putting in at least 80% more power than this car was designed to handle. Plan to upgrade susupension/brakes and chassis accordingly. As far as the year and model, it depends what you want out of it. The 70-73's are a good bit lighter than the 74s, and a lot lighter than the 75-78's. BUT, the 75-78's are probably better suited to handle the power increase in the stock form. (ie: less money spent on upgrading chassis etc) Be sure that you want either a 2 seater or a 2+2, decide before you look, and stick to it. Can't think of much else really. Let us know what you see. ------------------ "THE STREETS WILL FLOW WITH THE OIL OF THE NON-BELIEVERS" Drax240z 1972 240z - L28TURBO transplant on the way! http://members.xoom.com/r_lewis/datsun.html Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Drax240z Posted October 18, 2000 Share Posted October 18, 2000 Hey Brian. Not sure if you are looking for a running car or a shell. If you do plan to do the chevy swap a shell would probably be easier, though with a running car you may get enough $$$ from selling the engine/tranny to pay for a bit of extra cost. If I were in your shoes, what I'd be looking for is rust. Or more accurately, no rust! Check the frame rails, floorboards, inner fenders, under the hatch, etc. I wouldn't worry as much about body rust, since all but the rear of the car can be swapped with good quality parts. Also please consider that you are putting in at least 80% more power than this car was designed to handle. Plan to upgrade susupension/brakes and chassis accordingly. As far as the year and model, it depends what you want out of it. The 70-73's are a good bit lighter than the 74s, and a lot lighter than the 75-78's. BUT, the 75-78's are probably better suited to handle the power increase in the stock form. (ie: less money spent on upgrading chassis etc) Be sure that you want either a 2 seater or a 2+2, decide before you look, and stick to it. Can't think of much else really. Let us know what you see. ------------------ "THE STREETS WILL FLOW WITH THE OIL OF THE NON-BELIEVERS" Drax240z 1972 240z - L28TURBO transplant on the way! http://members.xoom.com/r_lewis/datsun.html Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Drax240z Posted October 18, 2000 Share Posted October 18, 2000 Hey Brian. Not sure if you are looking for a running car or a shell. If you do plan to do the chevy swap a shell would probably be easier, though with a running car you may get enough $$$ from selling the engine/tranny to pay for a bit of extra cost. If I were in your shoes, what I'd be looking for is rust. Or more accurately, no rust! Check the frame rails, floorboards, inner fenders, under the hatch, etc. I wouldn't worry as much about body rust, since all but the rear of the car can be swapped with good quality parts. Also please consider that you are putting in at least 80% more power than this car was designed to handle. Plan to upgrade susupension/brakes and chassis accordingly. As far as the year and model, it depends what you want out of it. The 70-73's are a good bit lighter than the 74s, and a lot lighter than the 75-78's. BUT, the 75-78's are probably better suited to handle the power increase in the stock form. (ie: less money spent on upgrading chassis etc) Be sure that you want either a 2 seater or a 2+2, decide before you look, and stick to it. Can't think of much else really. Let us know what you see. ------------------ "THE STREETS WILL FLOW WITH THE OIL OF THE NON-BELIEVERS" Drax240z 1972 240z - L28TURBO transplant on the way! http://members.xoom.com/r_lewis/datsun.html Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BLKMGK Posted October 19, 2000 Share Posted October 19, 2000 yup, look for rust Check the battery tray area in particular. If the framerails have been repaired examine them closely. Look at where the swaybar is mounted too - is there rust? Feel along th ebottom edge of the doors fro bubbling, check the window moulding for a good seal too - without it rain comes in and it rusts from the inside out once th etiny drains fill up. Check the cowl - any leaves or debris? In the front wheel well there's a tiny little mudflap looking thing towards the backedge inside the well - flip it back some and see if that drain is clogged up. Feel up inside the front fender where it meets the body - there SHOULD be a rubber seal up there, if not leaves and debris get in there and have a rust party. Look at the floors, look at the rockers - tap on them looking for Bondo. check the rubber seals - especially the hatch seal as it'll leak exhaust into the car. Now then - having bought myself a 240Z and having examined a friend's 260Z.... I think I liek the 260Z interior better from a stereo kind of standpoint. It's easier to mount on in there and the console looks a bit nicer IMO. 260's are also not as "desireable" to some folks so the price may be less. Do consider emissions laws when choosing a year though just in case Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Owen Posted October 19, 2000 Share Posted October 19, 2000 You can also check for rust by placing a magnet over each inch of the body. If rust is real bad, or if the bondo is really thick, the magnet won't stick. I had a spot which i thought would be a big rust patch but when i stripped the paint, it was just a dent filled in with bondo. Also, read the tech articles. Don't buy pay big money for a car just because it has new floor pans from Motorsport Auto. You'll kick yourself if you have to cut them out for subframe connectors. In short, plan it out first. Owen ------------------ http://www.homestead.com/s30z/index.html Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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