260ZRED Posted April 10, 2004 Share Posted April 10, 2004 Ok we got the engine running (!!!!!!) just need it driving now.. transmission is a world class t-5 from a camaro, engine is from a burb. =) Any recomendations on a functional hydraulic master clutch?? ANYTHING will help, just tell me what you guys are using on your stickshifts. The MC I have now is the wierdest P.O.S. I have ever seen, it looks homemade and is locked up. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ThomaZ Posted April 11, 2004 Share Posted April 11, 2004 I use a Wilwood P/N WIL-260-6765 Master Cylinder, High Volume, 7/8 in.Bore, 1/8 -27 Outlet, Die-Cast Aluminum cost $49.99 at Summit Racing. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
260ZRED Posted April 13, 2004 Author Share Posted April 13, 2004 how well did it fit and how did you link it to the pedal? thanks. would a stock 260 M.C. work for now? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ThomaZ Posted April 18, 2004 Share Posted April 18, 2004 What I recall you have to elongate the holes in the firewall and cut the pushrod and rethread the clevis like shown in the JTR manual. I have no experience with using the stock MC on a T5 but JTR claims it is not sufficient. It has a 5/8†bore and JTR recommends ¾†bore for the T5 however several members of this board recommends going up to the 7/8â€. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tim240z Posted April 18, 2004 Share Posted April 18, 2004 With my T56, I used the Tilton 7/8 bore universal master cylinder. Direct bolt up, except for the threads on the pedal where the pushrod threads in to. The master's rod is SAE threads, the Datsun's pedal is metric. Easy fix. Pedal feel is great...softer than my Z28 (which is pretty hard). Summit part number: TIL-74-875U Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dan Juday Posted April 19, 2004 Share Posted April 19, 2004 I used the Tilton 7/8" with my T5. Like Tim says it's a bolt up, just shorten the rod and re-tap the Datsun piece that connects to the pedal. Check the JTR book on the length. IGNOR the JTR book when it says use a 3/4" MC. I wasted a lot of time on that one. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tim240z Posted April 19, 2004 Share Posted April 19, 2004 Dan, I did not shorten the rod at all....granted I don't ahve much more adjustment, but it's just fine now....I found it easier to drill out the pedal 'clamp thingy' and weld a nut to it... Tim Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
260ZRED Posted April 19, 2004 Author Share Posted April 19, 2004 thanks for the info! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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