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Aluminum Rods?


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I am fairly new to this board but have been reading it several times a day recently. heres my question. i am building a 327 to go in a 240z, the engine is 30 over large journal with steel crank, i have a set of manley super-70 aluminum rods with trw full dome pistons that were used but look in really good shape, i have heard mixed reviews about aluminum rods and wondering if i will be able to use them on the street, but it will be a night time weekend driver, and track car. will i have a problem with these rods breaking or anything if i keep the oil cool and all that. They are really beefy and i already have them and want to use them. any help or opinions would be great. also the engine with be reving to around 7,500rpm if that matters. thanks peter

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Guest Anonymous

I agree, used for racing only, to much chance of breakage, I've seen a aluminum rod let loose somehow managed to take out the lifter galley, (pulled the pan, found lifters... bad thing to see in the pan...) not saying that would definitely happen, but anything I've read about al. rods says not for street use. There are so many good rods out now in forged H-beam type design in steel that its the way to go on the street. (Except, I know you HAVE these rods and would have to buy the other ones, understood, but...).

 

Regards,

 

Lone

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thanks luigi, i think i am going to use those rods, im having them stretch checked and all that at machine shop as we speak, what type of piston would you recommend, the trw's were just a option i was prolly going to retire those anyway, what is a good light weight piston for a 327 30over with a decent 10.0 - 11.0:1 compression.

 

thanks for the input

peter

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I say this only 'cause I've been around a SBC w/alum rods. Watch your piston weight. I hope you know where the rods came from. give yourself enough room for growth and stretch and go for it.

We built a 327 w/alum. rods. It did fine. we beat on it pretty good. It was nothing high dollar. just the had the rods hanging around.

good luck

luigi

P.S. took a smoke break and called my friend who was around this engine. Some (more) things to think about: Bearings will be drilled/doweled. this will add cost.

Check the condition of the threads carefully. the rods we used the bolt threaded in to the rod. If the threads are hurt or questionable don't use 'em.

You will likely hafta clearence the block for the rods. Good time to rock the block. Do this before you grind or machine.

many manufacturers will check rods for you for a nominal fee. Investigate this.

that TRW piston you have is one of the heaviest pistons in todays market. be careful

let me know how it goes.

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Hey, I'm still in Argos, IN, so I'm not near my catalogs. Shootin' from my hip, I'd say a SRP piston is 'bout your best compromise of cost, weight and strength. I have a set of hyperutetics (sp?) & honestly, I'm not that confident in them. Especially after someone on this board said they something go wrong with a set of 'em. I don't know the details though. Also, I think the SRP's may be a bit lighter. Check Ross pistons also as their pistons are not super costly if it is an off the shelf combo. or blank. Good light pins help also and SRP ahs them as well as precision performance. Precision is a hard company to find (check the web though) so when I get back to the home town I'll post a reply for their number.

let me know if you need anything else. I'll try to check in again tomorrow.

Peace

Luigi

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