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CHANGING MY CAM


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Can anyone chime in on performance of my new setup.

 

AFR190 Heads

Match Ported AFR Intake

XR270HR COMP CAM

350 40 over 5.7 rods

Flat tops with 5CC reliefs

1 5/8 Block Huggers

Dual exhaush 2 1/2 Xpipe to two Dyno Max mufflers

Holley 750DP with ProForm main body 70/80 jets

Underdrive pully system

6A MSD ignition

2800 Stall

 

Can anyone tell me the approx HP and torque numbers I should see.

 

Desk Top I have seems high....

 

Terry

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Can anyone tell me the approx HP and torque numbers I should see.

 

Terry,

My Dyno-Sim says:

With estimated 10:1 static compression ratio......448 HP @ 5500 RPM and 465 ft lbs torque @ 4500 RPM, flywheel numbers. This is assuming efficient tuning of timing and carb. The torque converter stall has no bearing on these numbers at this time. However, it comes into play when you put the power to the ground.

Hanns

Good-looking Z, by the way.

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Thanks guys I appreciate it. I needed a little more launch power and the previous cam was too big...XR282HR....this should work just fine, I was still running a 5 sec 0-60 with a sluggish launch. This should put me well in the 4s....ZFAN I am struggling...lol :D Thanks for the compliments guys...more updates soon. I put on a bre rear spoilers that compliments her well...

 

Terry

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TERRY

 

I am suprised that the 282 was to big. I ran the 276 and loved it and with my 383 I now run the 288. The 270 should be a torque monster. That combo should put you in the low 12's. Good luck!

 

Mike

 

What you need to do is take it to the track. Thats the only way to get a true idea of performance. One question for you..did you degree the old cam?

 

Mike

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.., I needed a little more launch power and the previous cam was too big...XR282HR....this should work just fine, I was still running a 5 sec 0-60 with a sluggish launch. This should put me well in the 4s....ZFAN I am struggling.., Terry

 

IMHO, any engine with a complimentary DCR & SCR (Dynamic Compression Ratio & Static Compression Ratio) you will begin trading low rpm torque for high rpm horsepower when you choose to use a cam w/a duration above the 270 range.

 

I agree that your 282 cam, albeit a big cam, probably wasnt the problem-I would bet that your biggest problem was your differential and transmission gearing(?).

 

I am not a fan of a 282 anything on the street-even though many people utilize such a cam w/o a problem...providing their gearing is correct. Personally I believe your 270 duration cam will be perfect for a true H/O street engine.

 

Just curious-what is your trans of choice and what is your differential gearing?

 

Zfan-dont forget your engine has about 26 more cubic inches; so it will breath much more air than Corzette's 357...still-gearing makes all the difference when you get in the 275-285 duration range.

 

Kevin,

(Yea,Still an Inliner)

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Your launch will depend on which GM trans you are using and which Z diff gear under the car.

 

700R's have a very low first gear (3.08) and will give a 3.54 gear a 10.9:1 overall first gear ratio and a 12.0:1 overall first gear ratio if you are using a 3.90 diff gear. A 10:1 overall first gear makes a nice "hole shot" car.

 

A th350 trans has a 2.50 first gear which will produce a 8.85:1 or a 9.75:1 overall first gear when using a 3.54 or 3.90 diff gear.

 

You didn't mension which trans or gear your are using but I would guess you are using a th350 trans with a 3.54 diff gear, since you are wanting more "take off" power. The cam you are changing to should help low end torque. Furthermore, a small shot of N20 will also help you get off the line.

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Let me just say I like the cam choice but was suprised he had problems with the other cam. My 276 in the 350 I ran turned 12.30 at 112. So he(Terry) will have goobs of power/torque. Terry my 350 had 236/60-15's with a 3.70 LSD and 700r4 combo.

 

I am running the 288 in my 385 and it is a monster. I went to a single plane intake and retarded the cam 4 degrees to keep the car from roasting tires and rear ends.

 

Sounds great.

 

Mike

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Thanks for the input guys....Mike I envy you....I want a 383. However I am running 3"54 rear and 700R4 with 2800 stall. I need to get the BFgoodrich drag radials I guess. Im running 275 50 15 Nittos at the moment. I got the engine torn down today. Im waiting on the cam to come in. I hope to have it put together by Sunday....what a pain. Finally our track will open in May. Mike I may finally get to run it. Im looking to start another project so trying to decide 383 or 406. I suppose the 383 is the right choice for better support etc...

 

Terry

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Kevin, your right. The tranny gears, diff and stall was not totally matched for what I was looking for. I had two choices. change my diff amd torque converter, or change the cam to more properly match what I have. I didnt have the bucks to do the first choice so I hope I will see the difference Im looking for this way.

 

Terry

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I didn't like the BFG drag radials at all. They didn't stick well (compared to slicks) and were expensive and wore out VERY VERY quickly. They were gone after a few smokey burnouts! I guess they would had lasted longer if I didn't heat them up before launching the car. On the other hand, a set of MT drag slicks lasted me 80 trips downs the drag strip and that included a smokey line-lock burnout before each run. But they require another set of rims to make switching from one set of tires to the other an easy swap.

 

Mickey Thomson now has their own drag radial (not ET street drag tire) which was tested in this month issue of Hotrod or Chevy High Performance (i forgot which one). This brand new drag radial made better 60 foots in a few cases as compared to the MT drag slicks. However, I bet they will wear out quickly just like the BFG's.

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N0, but the MT ET streets are street legal. They are built the same as slicks but have 5 or 6 very little groves cut into the rubber for what they call a "tread". But they drive like slicks on the road. The side walls are so weak, it makes to rear end of the car wonder around (good for straight line traction only). And if it rains the end rear will feel like driving on ice. Not very pleasant. I had slicks on my V8 Z but I trailered the car to the track and didn't drive it on the street with slicks.

 

I have also used the MT sportman tires and they work pretty well at the track but not nearly as well as slicks. However, street driving was pretty normal and tread wear was acceptable.

 

IMHO, I think you should get some regular radials and spend some money on a LSD. Or buy an extra set of rims and some slicks for the track events. Preicison Gear sells a LSD center carrier for R200 diffs for 605.00 which would be about the cost of 2 slicks and 2 extra rims.

 

I recent installed a LSD carrier in my 1/2 ton 70 chevy pickup with a 454 engine and the LSD really helped out traction.

 

Maybe you should consider getting and 3.90 diff from the junk yard and installing a new LSD carrier. The 3.90 will help low end power and the LSD will help traction. And, I bet your are tired of making single black lines all over the streets.

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Oh! sorrry about that. LOL

 

That's good! You already have a LSD.

 

Have you tried any suspension tricks to increase weight transfer to the rear tires? Like....

removing front sway bar.

installing soft springs and struts up front.

installing hard springs and struts in the rear.

 

It is hard to get both drag strip traction and good handling unless you have a 4 wheel drive or rear engine car.

 

Another thing is, old rubber generally has bad traction. I don't know how old your current tires are but as tires age, the rubber loses traction. So maybe a fresh set of rubber will help.

 

If you plan to go to the track more than 4 or 5 times this year then maybe you should get a set of slicks and another set of wheels. The difference between drag slicks and regular tires is huge at the track. I'm not sure but I feel my Z actually pulls the front tires off the ground just a little when using slicks.

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OK cam has been changed....previously I was running 0-60 in 5.3 sec...with the old cam. After the install of the new without tuning I went 5.13. I had my timing advanced. The engine didnt like it so I started retarding it little by little. I went 5.00 after two runs. Still will retard more and check. So the timing is near. I used a GTEc for the tuning. The next thing I did was pull the plugs. They were a little wet so I gapped them from .45 to .38 and ran again. 4.85!!!! consistently. It still smells rich so Iw ill start down jetting the secondaries next weekend and go from there. man this GTec is a good tuning tool. Im still getting good traction but the RPMS go up much faster now. I figure a 4.5 or 6 is in the works with proper jetting. Will let all know later. The car pulls real hard and feels good. Traction is good...should be in the 12s for now. 383 coming with Rapture 700R4... does anyone know anything about http://www.bassassengines.com? Over rated???

 

Terry

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