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Rebuilt engine, no spark or fuel pump


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Hello,

I just installed my rebuilt engine in my car, but have not been able to start it due to the fact that I have no spark and the fuel pump is not humming right before the start position on the key.

 

I'm pretty sure this is some kind of electrical problem, but I don't know where to start diagnosing it. All I disconnected (electronics) when I removed the old engine was the battery, HT lead wire from the coil, alternator wiring, and starter wiring. I didn't remove anything else that would cause the car to be acting like this.

 

Could give me some places to stick my multimeter in to diagnose?

 

Thanks!

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  • 1 month later...

I'm guessing from your description that your condition is a,

 

"Cranks but Won't Start" as opposed to a "No Crank" situation or else you wouldnt have any idea that the fuel pump & distributor are inop.

 

My first question would be to ask if you have a Factory Datsun Manual? Not just a Haynes, Chilton, or Motors...but a Factory Datsun Manual.

 

If your engine cranks but doesnt start due to no fuel or ignition I would suggest checking continuity at the ignition module when the key is turned to the "on" position. If you are not getting power to the ignition module then your relays are not energized either.

 

I dont have a 77 Datsun Manual but I do have a 78 manual. I also had an intermittant "no crank" and or a "cranks-but no start" condition last year.

 

My problem ended up being:

1) two to three fuses that tested good yet they were actually bad.

2) Ignition Coil that had no fully failed but was on its way out.

3) Ignition Switch Relay had failed

4) 1 Fusible Link

5) ....and a Blue Plastic Wal*Mart bag that was sucked up my intake snorkel

 

Durning all this I removed my Ignition Transisto Unit and took it down to AutoZone, Napa, and O-Reilly's to which all three didnt have the proper fusible link for testing. Fortunately for me my Ign. Transistor Unit was fine as it was my Ignition Relay that had failed...$30 so no biggy as opposed to the Ignition Transistor Unit that was $130-which is much better than what Nissan wanted..$300.

 

Since you are not getting power to your Coil & Fuel Pump I would suggest either you are not getting Battery 12+ volts past your Ingnition Switch, 12+ volts to the Ignition Relay or 12+ volts to the Ignition Transistor Ignition Unit.

 

Your first order of business is to identify which wires from the key switch (the one attached to the other side of the key lock cylinder) that powers the Ign. Relay and Ign. Transistor unit which powers the other relays that energize both your Ign. Coil and Fuel Pump.

 

BTW: the Ign. Switch powers both the Iqn. Relay and the Ign. Transistor Unit.

 

The Ign. Relay will power the other relays which include the Fuel Injector Harness Relay, Fuel Pump Relay, and Fuel Pump Control Relay and a few others.

 

If you dont have a factory manual then you really need to get one as the aftermarket manual's electrical diagrams are not as easy to follow as the Factory Datsun Manuals.

 

If your local Nissan Dealer doesnt have one they should have access to a CD-Rom Manual for your year car.

 

If you dealer doesnt have them in stock then you can call Courtesy Nissan in Plano Tx...they have them in stock ph#1800.527.1909 or ph#972.644.3942

 

Kevin,

(Yea,Still an Inliner)

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