Guest zamarii Posted November 23, 2002 Share Posted November 23, 2002 I just bought a 350 bored 60 over with forged pistons/rods but since i'm still in high school working a not so great job money is tight i got a 71 240 so far with motor that car has cost me 200 not bad right good winter project. the point is to get the stock l24 in and running get some quircks worked out before i decide to dump the v8 in so now you see my predicament. some places i'd like to go cheap if possible but where it matters money ain't thing. I have friends all with imports eclipes gst's, gs's accords and civic. I figured i'd give them a dose of american muscle with japanese finesse even if it's not a daily driver that's fine i have a hyundai daily, not great but has lasted. The z is my true passion. i guess my point is with the v8 what kind of mods to drive train besides tranny am i looking at. I'm gonna keep the r180 for just a little and keep off that lovely peddle we can't seem to tame. so drive shafts must be shortened right? if not where can i get newones and when i put an r200 in am i gonna have to have them shortened again? i'm basicly trying to see what i'm getting myself into? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DavyZ Posted November 23, 2002 Share Posted November 23, 2002 You need to purchase the JTR manual and then go from there after you read it over a dozen times. It is the best education you can get besides this forum of course Jags That Run Davy Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
maichor Posted November 23, 2002 Share Posted November 23, 2002 When it comes time for the drive shaft, your best bet locally will probably be Six States Distributors in Orem. They can do just about anything you want. They are a favorite for all of the custom 4X4 stuff in the area. Here in Texas we have sold the our 2 Jeeps and moved to a Z project. Still, I will probably get my shaft from them when I visit my brother's family at Christmas. They do excellent work and are masters at balancing the shaft. They are also very cool. If there is something wrong with the shaft they make for you, they fix it and rebalance at no charge. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Z-rific Posted November 23, 2002 Share Posted November 23, 2002 Dedicate several hours to reading past posts in the Chevy V8 forum, the Drivetrain forum, and the Suspension forum. Learn to use that "search" function and it will answer most of your questions. The driveshaft will have to be cut down to fit whatever tranny you use. Any competant trans. shop should be able to handle this. I doubt you will need to have it balanced. Buy that JTR book. Very informative. And I absolutely agree to keep it running til the lat possible minute. I wish I had done that with mine. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mudge Posted November 23, 2002 Share Posted November 23, 2002 Balancing would be recommended IMO, but for those staying below 150 MPH your probably fine - but why not balance it for those 'just incase' situations Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Anonymous Posted November 24, 2002 Share Posted November 24, 2002 For the JTR v8 conversion, the driveshfts should all be in the neigborhood of less than 25 inches. (20.5 inches for the GM2004R tranny application) Do search functions since ther is much info including all the various lengths of shafts for many transmissions.The short drive shafts "may not" need a balance but this service is provided in the overall price so little money would be saved by omitting the balance. My Chevy donar car had the wrong driveshaft...Pontiac ujoints held in place by injected plastic reqiring inside retaining u joint clips when replaced. You will need the outside u-joint retaining clips for the required 1310 Chev spicer ujoint. I had an aluminum Corvette drive shaft( bought at a swap meet with two new ujoints for $10.00) shortened by an experienced gear head and circle track racer neighbor, since in the entire State of Oregon no drive line shop shortened or balanced aluminum shafts cuz no one heliarced aluminum. He left the two OEM balance weights on the drive shaft since he felt the balancing corrected the drive shaft end yokes of the shaft not the shaft tube.The OEM balance weights were glued on and the aluminum shaft came with an inside paper tube for driveline dampening. In time I will find out if this retro fit balance will work or will have to get the shaft re-balanced. I called many places for driveline shortening and found a wide range of prices. A large shop in Seattle quoted $125 for aluminum while the Six States local shop qouted $175.00 for steel. If I was able to use the end yokes on the "Pontiac shaft" I would have shorrtened and welded it myself and had it professionally balanced if it proved to vibrate at speed Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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