Finally Started my Conversion!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

[80LS1T]

So is this all the wires that I will need for the gauges and the engine?

[Guest greimann]

HECK NO! That is just the basics. That LT1 should have a bundle of wires for the computer, fuel system, ignition, sensors, and other stuff I haven't even thought about. Each one will have to be interfaced with the ZX in some way. There are people here that can answer specific questions about which wire to use for fuel pump and such, but it is up to YOU to determine which one needs battery voltage, ignition voltage, and ground.

Do you have the stock Chevrolet wiring harness and computer or an aftermarket one like Painless Wiring? If aftermarket, that should come with a wiring diagram, otherwise, first thing tomorrow, go get a Camaro wiring diagram, then find a loose wire on the LT1 harness and trace its origin back on the wiring diagram. Determine where that wire originally went on the Camaro and figure out what ZX system is equivalent. It is a pain staking process, but you will learn a lot!

[80LS1T]

See what I am thinking is there might be a few more wires that need to go to the battery or to ground but things like the fuel pump are already wired all I have to do is hook it up to the igintion circuit.

 

Am I way off on this or what?

 

Thanks Greimann for all the help by the way!

 

Guy

[80LS1T]

Well I am going to hold off on the wiring for now. I havent got my new harness for the LT1 yet.

 

So now I started to put my clutch pedal assembley in my car. It used to be a 3 speed auto. All I can say is WHAT A B*TCH!!!!! Next time I do a conversion like this I am using an manual transmission car to begin with! The most frustrating part was getting a hole in the fire wall for that cylinder that connects to the pedal and sends pressure to the master cylinder(can't think of the name for it). It took 3 grinding stones to get a hole in the fire wall after about 3 hours of swearing up and down! But I finally got the hole in it and now all I have to do is get some bigger bolts to hold the clutch pedal assembely down and a return spring of some sort for the pedal.

 

Has anybody else had this wonderful experience?

 

Guy

[Guest BigE]

The difference between the 93 LT1 and the 94-97 LT1 is that the 93 is a speed density metering system whereas the later models are mass air. If you plan on modifying the engine internally (cam, heads, etc.) I would go with a 94-95 system (LT1 mass air with OBD I). I think you can just get the wiring harness, maf sensor and related parts rather than getting a completely new engine. If you're not going to modify the engine, I wouldn't worry about it.

Good luck

 

E

[80LS1T]

Well I went back out in the garage last night and tried to finish up on the pedal mounting but it just wasnt happening for me. When I mounted the master cylinder(I think thats what it is?) on the out side of the firewall, inside the wheelwell it wasnt quite lined up with the pedal assembly in the car so the rod didnt line up with the pedal. Therefor, it would push straight in!!!! So now I have to try something new to get the pedal straight with that rod!

 

Does anybody know how much the pedal should go in for the clutch to disengage? Cause the pedal only goes about 2" of total travel before it hits a stopper. Let me know how you guys did this if you did?

 

Thanks

 

Guy

[Guest greimann]

Lets clairfy pedal travel. Are you talking 2" at the foot pad or at the pushrod attachment point? 2" at the pushrod sounds about right. 2" at the footpad is not right.

 

I don't know about your master alignment problem because my car was already a manual and I am using a Mcleod hydraulic release bearing anyway with a Wilwood master.

 

One suggestion, now that you are in the nuts and bolts of the job, you might want to start posting individual questions in the appropriate forum to attract the most responses.