Guest Anonymous Posted October 22, 2000 Share Posted October 22, 2000 ok, i bought my 280zx about 2months ago, i decided about 3weeks after i got it that stock wasn't gonna cut it(0-60 in 9sec??) i have a 4-bolt main 350 with a comp cams 268h cam, a perfeormer rpm intake, and a 780cfm holly carb(70 jets primary, 76 secondary) i want to put it in my z, the car i have is an 81 gl 2+2 non-turbo with an auto tranny, before i swap the motors i'll run it in the 1/4 for some baseline number. the motor i have built will be about 250hp(not ground shaking buy much better than stock) my questions are 1. what tranny will work best 700r4, th-350, or the th-200r4? 2. which swap is cheaspest(MSA or JTR) 3. will the driveshaft from MSA(part number:10-1853) work if i use JTR to swap my motor? i'm only 15 right now and i have 6month to learn as much as possible(then i get my licences) and then all summer working to get the money to do the swap, i also would like to know how hard it is to swap an LT1 or an LT4 into the z thanks in advance Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Drax240z Posted October 22, 2000 Share Posted October 22, 2000 Hey, welcome to the board. Here is the route I would if I was in your shoes. (I'm not doing the V8 thing myself, but I researched the hell out of it before making a decision) Neither the MSA or JTR kits are going to make life too much easier for you, since they are designed for 70-78z's, the zx's are considerably different. I would check out what Ross Corrigan (on this board) has done, since he is one of very few people that I know of that have done this swap. Another bit of advice, buy the JTR manual and learn a few things from it. Granted you can't follow it step by step to put the V8 in your car, but it will show you how to tackle most (all?) of the problems you will face. Driveshaft angles, header selection, fuel line size, etc. Also you are going to have steering rack issues with the zx's. I hope I haven't discouraged you too much. It can be done! But its not going to be cheap or easy. :/ ------------------ "THE STREETS WILL FLOW WITH THE OIL OF THE NON-BELIEVERS" Drax240z 1972 240z - L28TURBO transplant on the way! http://members.xoom.com/r_lewis/datsun.html Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Drewz Posted October 22, 2000 Share Posted October 22, 2000 I have a 260 with a 350 in it and am running the 200 trans. I may swap it for the 700 in my shop I just wangled my way into for free. 200 has worked fine so far but the 700 would last longer since it is stronger and heavier. The 200 was not used in large vehicles since it was too light. My opinion ------------------ The only stupid question is one you wanted to ask but never did!!! Drewz Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cyind Posted October 22, 2000 Share Posted October 22, 2000 I have the 700R4 in my 77. To me it would be a better way to go because it can take up to 600 HP and you have overdrive with it. Z U V8ter Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Anonymous Posted October 22, 2000 Share Posted October 22, 2000 drax, i have a new MSA catlog and they have a kit for the 79-83 280zx, it's more money and the description is a little vague($225.00, for motor, and transisssion mouts(700r4 tranny). if u have an MSA catalog look on page 51. thanks for yalls help so far p.s. the 700r4 was in late model vettes and pickups right?? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Drewz Posted October 22, 2000 Share Posted October 22, 2000 Yes the 700 was a late model trans as was the 200. The diff. is that the 200 is smaller and lighter but was used in the S-10 2wd 4wd since the power and weight was lower. Same gears but the 200 is good for a max HP. under 400 if using slicks or abuse driving. What are your needs? MILD OR WILD? ------------------ The only stupid question is one you wanted to ask but never did!!! Drewz Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Anonymous Posted October 22, 2000 Share Posted October 22, 2000 drew, darg racing every friday night and about 350hp max(unless i find out how to put an LT1 into it then about 400hp) other than that just a daily driver, i've got big dreams for it including racincg seats, 280z rear sup. with polyureathine bushings, fiberglass galore, bigger wheels and tires. but the motor swap is the most important right now. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BLKMGK Posted October 23, 2000 Share Posted October 23, 2000 Okay - here comes my opinions Forget the MSA and JTR swap kits. If memory serves the ZX has a different cowl setup that will NOT allow a setback mounting like the JTR. The MSA kit seems pricey to me -like everything else they sell! Hooker supposedly still sells their kit - guess what, it's NOT the setback kit and that's supposed to be what you want. Call up Jeg's or Summit and see what they price this at but first get the JTR book. The JTR book has tons of info and may have the Hooker part#s. I'd look but I'm not able to tonight. As for the MSA driveshaft - not on a 2+2 I'd think. Have one built - it'll probably be cheaper and stronger anyway. We can get you the Neapco # for the pinion thing. As for trannies - try to get an overdrive and find out if you've got a R180 or R200 rear. Memory tingles and tells me that it might be a 180. Since you list drag racing I'd want an R200, posi if you can find one. Consider a cage of some sort too before you drag race it. I've seen Mustangs wrinkle the roof with one good launch with stock bodies - Zs aren't as strong. Motor choice sounds fine but since you want to race make sure it's got forged pistons and then scrounge up a good NOS system Power at the track, mild motor on the way home! I like superchargers myself but NOS has it's place. In fact if my friend's shop gets a fill station I might just slap one on my car for giggles! P.S. Welcome! Keep the questions coming! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Anonymous Posted October 23, 2000 Share Posted October 23, 2000 blk, will the hooker swap throw off my hanling, and does it come with motor and tranny mounts? also, i was thinkin about the forged pistions and searching junk yard for a 400sb chevy, and stroke my 350 to a 383, also my brother-in-law has a set of heads that he says have 1.92 intake and like 1.60 exhaust. i was thinking(since i have awhile till i can start my swap) i could have a 3angle valve job done, porting, polishing, and have the intake ported&polished, the some 1.5 ratio roller rockers. then throw the NOS at it. and my diff is an r180 open, the 200 was in the turbos, and all the 84-89 300zx right?? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Locutus Posted October 24, 2000 Share Posted October 24, 2000 I would get the JTR book, look over thier mount designs and then sorta redesign your mounts with out the set back plate, that will get the motor down as low as it can and there isn't any room for a setback. Then pick your tranny drop your engine and tranny in, then make a measurement for the driveshaft. That may be a bit over simplistic, but I think you get the point. Mike Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Anonymous Posted October 24, 2000 Share Posted October 24, 2000 Hey, I ordered the 280zx V8 mounts from MSA at the end of July, but I haven't gotten them yet They're having trouble with the company that makes them or something. I'm planning on dropping in a 350 in my 1980 280zx, with the th350 tranny. I'm going to get to work as soon as my mounts come in, which is supposed to be within the week. We just dropped in a 302 in a pinto, so now i'm hoping we can move on to the z Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BLKMGK Posted October 24, 2000 Share Posted October 24, 2000 Your handling might be a bit off but it can't be helped. I'm NOT sure what parts the Hooker kit comes with so check that out. The JTR trans mount ought to work if it doesn't come with one and it's just a piece of bent flat steel with holes in it anyway - I've got one If you're scrounging the junkyards for a 400 why not just build that? More cubes is fine so long as th emotor is solid. If it's a stroked 350 you want plenty of places sell the cranks already done - byt the time you get the machine work done on a 400 crank you'd probably be about even cost wise with buying a cast one. You're looking low power anyway so cast shouldn't be a worry. Forged pistons are a good idea no matter what and a NOS bottle makes up for much in the power dept Do go with an R200 I think, non-posi ones aren't too hard to find and shouldn't be too expensive. LSDs go for $500 and up unless you get lucky. You've still not mentioned a budget. That's probably what you need to set first. For instance those heads - what will the machine work cost on them? The Edeldbrock aluminum heads I've got cost $900. Vortec iron heads cost less but are also a super buy. You might find that the machine work costs a significant portion of that and that buying new would work out better. For that matter - what will it cost to rebuild that motor, the heads, etc. etc. Then compare THAT with buying a ZZ4 crate motor @$3200 complete. The ZZ4 may look VERY nice when you're done adding it all up and it comes with aluminum heads, roller valvetrain and yucky pistons but then you won't need to NOS it either. Set a budget, plan it out, then figure out how much over budget you can go and still finish it. I know I'm blowing mine! Hrm, I hope I never add up my receipts - that would be "ugly". What's your budget? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pparaska Posted October 24, 2000 Share Posted October 24, 2000 The hooker mounts are for putting the SBC into a Z not a ZX in the "Scarab" postion. Yes, that's the same for aft position that you need to use in the ZX, since that's about as far back as the engine will fit, but I'm not sure the engine height you'd get with those mounts is what would work for oil pan clearance and air cleaner clearance. Ross C has done this with custom mounts I believe, and you should talk to him about the trade offs. Hopefully the MSA kit strikes a good balance on engine height. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Anonymous Posted October 24, 2000 Share Posted October 24, 2000 how much hp is the zz4?? and my budget is non-exsant right now(i,m broke)i'm tryin to find out how much i need to get to do it right, and what do u mean by ugly pistons in the zz4 are they cast?? also i need somethin that will get no worse than 12mpg(i sat here and dreamed up my idea of the perfect SBC $6,144.27 without timing chains, but thats for roller valve train, edelbrock pro-flo fuel injection, and othe goddies) so the zz4 looks real good right now. if the zz4 has cast pistons i'll get forged and then get NOS. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Locutus Posted October 25, 2000 Share Posted October 25, 2000 The ZX is longer, and that should compensate some for the engine being further forward, as far as engine placement for height, I don't know how high the MSA kit puts it, but if you basically make the JTR spacers with out the setback plate it will put the engine as low as possible and with the 3/4 inch offset needed for the datsun rear end. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BLKMGK Posted October 26, 2000 Share Posted October 26, 2000 ZZ4 is about 350HP if memory serves. It shoudl come with a distributor, intake, valve covers, front cover, and no water pump. The dampner is too big and it'll need a flywheel. Pistons are hyperutectic (sp?) which I don't like but it's WAY better than cast. I just don't like the hyper pistons myself - too brittle but others love them (shrug). Cam is a roller. ZZ4 is a damned good motor for the money, if you're doing this on a budget a carb is not a big deal and is way cheaper. I nearly went for the ZZ4 but spent about a grand more to have a 383 done making about 75 more HP or so with stronger internals. As for the Hooker swap - I've told you what I know. Other's have more experience and I think there's at least a couple of folks who've done the swap in a ZX so let them guide you. Heh, I'm still trying to get moving on MY swap! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Anonymous Posted October 26, 2000 Share Posted October 26, 2000 Heres a link for the vitals on the ZZ4 crate motor... http://www.sdpc2000.com/cart.asp?action=prod_detail&catid=120&pid=117 Lone Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Anonymous Posted November 3, 2000 Share Posted November 3, 2000 The part number for the Hooker headers is #2147 just got them for my 79 ZX the driver side is 2 piece comes apart to install dont see any problems with it, and i have the Scarab type engine placement. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Anonymous Posted November 5, 2000 Share Posted November 5, 2000 i can't find the hooker swap, i've been to the hooker website, and the summit site but i can't find it, i'm gonna try jegs and see if it is on there. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Modern Motorsports Ltd Posted November 5, 2000 Share Posted November 5, 2000 quote: Originally posted by 81280zx: drax, i have a new MSA catlog and they have a kit for the 79-83 280zx, it's more money and the description is a little vague($225.00, for motor, and transisssion mouts(700r4 tranny). I notice they offer NO headers for the ZX. Sure wish they had pics of the ZX mounts, I'd love to know how they get their hood clearance, as I recall from John Haag's they have some integral motor mount/frame rail/xmember piece..... What's their return policy like? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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