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Idea for ZX Driver side exhaust problem......


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I was thinking maybe if I noched the drivers side frame rail about 3/4" to move the power steering gearbox over about 3/4" and bang on the inside fender wall so that it would move over a 3/4" than my header will work. bonk.gif

 

Then after I noched it I was going to weld everything back in and renforce the frame rail with some 1/4" flatstock on the top, bottom and outiside. :D

 

I know this might change the geometry of the steering but all it should effect is how far the wheel goes one way or the other...right? bonk.gif So I would need to adjust my toe so that my steering wheel is straight.

 

Let me know if you guys think this is a good idea or if I should just get a custom header. Oh by the way this is for a LT1

 

Thanks!

 

Guy rockon.gif

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Guest greimann

If you move it, you might be able to re-index the pitman arm on the spline to keep the steering wheel straight without having to adjust the alignment. If you are good, this might work, but look carefully into how this mod may affect the steering shaft or the front suspension.It also may affect the rate of turn from one side to the other as the geometry goes over center in a left hand turn. Personally, I would look into other options before doing this, including adapting rack and pinion or another box from another vehicle.

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I asked my auto instructor today about this and he said that this isn't a good idea because it will change the toe-out on turns ratio. So I guess I will just have to get a custom header or a rear dump manifold that only sticks out about 2" from the block. frown.gif

 

How much should I expect to pay for a custom header with a thermal coating?

 

Thanks,

 

Guy

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Guy, I’m just finishing porting some aluminum wedges I had made for my own 280ZX drivers side new header. They’ll rotate the standard Hooker 1-5/8’s (fine header IMO, been proven on many a setup) shortie header out to clear my drivers side manual rack’n’pinion steering rod. I haven’t test fitted them yet to verify that I’ve nailed down the geometry but I left room for them to be futher angle milled if necessary.

 

In short they’re ~1/2†wide on the top and 1.5†wide at the base (just ballpark) and my machinist made them with a minimum size roundhole drilled thru that I’m now matching to my heads and header ports for a proper transition. I preferred to make custom wedges so I can later swap in a standard style header if required. I could have them duplicate for anyone else to port to their own setup. What I have running right now is a tweaked shorty 1.5†diameter header but it doesn’t match much of anything since my system has evolved from an OEM style 327 to the newer edelbrock top end it’s had for a few years now. I’m really looking fwd to the 1-5/8’s, including GREATLY improved port flow on exhaust side of head and new exhaust done much better as well!

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Originally posted by 80LT1:

I'm going to need a picture. bonk.gif I'm not sure what you mean. bonk.gifbonk.gif Where is this piece going?

 

Thanks, :D

 

Guy

The 'wedge' mounts between the head and the header flange, it rotates the header so the collector rotates toward your inner fender to drop down between the inner fender and steering rod. I just flashed thru 6 or so pics via email to you.
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