New Rad? which one....and who's got THE best trans coolers/b

[Modern Motorsports Ltd]

I've had my Griffin 26x19 with 1.25" rows and AT cooler for 7 or 8 yrs now and it's been great to me. I even twisted it badly in an accident 3 yrs or more ago/they pressed it back square and it had no leaks! A year ago it started to leak out of pinholes where it had twisted previously....I structural epoxied it (after cleaning/stripping some surficial epoxy they use in their build process) and it was good for another year....now it's leaking again in same area. I figure enough cycles of temperature changes (daily driver/8 yrs) have their effect on the epoxy/aluminum interfaces as well as their expansion/contraction rates I'm sure aren't identical.

 

I'd get another griffin but the more I've seen of aluminum ductility and knowing the others (Be Cool/Howe/Fluidyne) typically use only aluminum welding in controlled atmospheres (ie. v. clean welds) I'm leaning to one of them for a 'lifer' out of my new one. I don't blame the Griffin for it's final demise (would still be fine/just close off 2 or three tubes in leaky area but I don't want mine like that...).

 

Anyone have an aluminum rad in the $2-300US range with a draincock and tranny cooler that they like? At present I run the radiator trans cooler and then a large front trans cooler.....allows tranny fluid/oil to warm up together and buffer each other if near extremes as well.

 

Seeing as the aftermarket rad's stocked at performance houses are typically non-AT cooler equipped units I'm contemplating getting a typical Howe 26x19 for ~$190 and sinking the $100 difference into a killer front trans cooler/bypass temp valve/ee fan setup as the 'be all to end all' tranny cooler. Inputs on killer tranny coolers is welcome as well.......ideally it would have a temp bypass so it only allows fluid thru the finned cooler portion when it's up and above warmup temp.....don't want it overly cooling the trans before it's warmed up as I understand too cold isn't good for them!

 

I recall a wicked permacool or becool unit I saw years back. Perhaps someone has more recently done their homework on this and can save me some internet shuffling??

 

Here's a few I just came across

unit with 'low pressure bypass', but not sure it's that effective?

nice integral cooler/fan but no bypass??

 

Thanks!

[Brad-ManQ45]

T3 automotive is the Infiniti specialist shop in the Atlanta area.

 

They recommend the B&M Cooler pre-radiator, that way the cooler in the radiator has a chance to warm the T/O up before returning to the transmission.

 

The way it is designed it doesn't cool as much when cooler temps are present. No moving parts.

 

For the Atlanta area, they completely bypass the radiator T/O cooler entirely - it just doesn't get that cold that often here.

 

They claim the T/O coolers add 1/2 to 3/4 more mileage to the tranny when associated with fluid replacement every 50K.

[Guest Lee Smith]

My thoughts on AT oil cooler.

 

I have a 79 F350 4x4 with AT. It needed a different radiator. I had on hand a rad with no oil cooling tube.

Since AT's are suppose to work at -30 & I never intend to run on days that it is colder then +20

I plumbed the oil lines to the AT condensor coil.

The coil gets warm, but not as hot as the radiator on HEAVE loades. Max pulling power needed to get 8-10 ton loads hay out of the fields on a 3 axel trailer.

It seemes to be working. 2+ years now.

 

I am doing a 77 V8. Using a 82 350 with AT OD, because that is what I have on hand.

The 77Z 5spd rad with the AC condensor used as above.

If the 77 rad will not keep it cool. I will try somthing else out of the cars my son-in-law junks out.

 

Is my thinking way off?

 

All comments apprecated.

[Guest Lee Smith]

Whoops

It should have been

Plumed the oil lines to the AC condensing coil.