Guest kc6wfs Posted November 26, 2000 Share Posted November 26, 2000 Hello all, I just hooked up my my alt it's a 1 wire. I did this to make things simple. Question!! Do I still run the output of the alt to the thick white/red wire? Or should I run it to the battery and isolate the white/red? Should have my driveshaft in this week! Got the starter/alt/temp sensor/oil pressure all hooked up today. Hope to fire it up this week. I hope... Thanks; Dave Booth http://www.geocities.com/Hollywood/5860/240z.html Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mike kZ Posted November 27, 2000 Share Posted November 27, 2000 Good question about the wiring of the Alternator, does anyone know the answer? I was looking at this the other day also. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pparaska Posted November 27, 2000 Share Posted November 27, 2000 I'd not hook it to the stock wire, as that goes to the Amp gage. I don't like Amp gages in cars... I'll give you my OPINION on this one: Amp gages (as implimented on the 240Z) are dangerous. Really, do you want the full current of the alternator output running through the firewall, through the dash? Plus the 240 amp gage has a habit of burning out (the big shunt across the meter movement burns out, then the gage movement follows immediately.) Yeah, I'm an info hound, and I'd like to know the charging/draining current situation from time to time, but to me it's not worth the risk, etc. Plus knowing the battery/alternator output voltage is useful in different ways. On my Z, I've gotten rid of the Amp gage (just bolted and soldered the leads at the gage together and insulated it) and I'm running no volt gage per se. I might put one of those cigarette lighter plug in ones in place of the cigarette lighter (thanks to Mikelly for that idea). As for how to wire it, I'd get a 12 gage fusible link to hood to the output, then some 8 gage wire to the battery + terminal. Or if that is too big for you, use a 14 gage fusible link and a 10 gage wire. If it's a 90 amp or more alternator, use the 12 fusible/ 8 gage setup. 8 gage wire is tough to find. I got some of this from M.A.D. Enterprises (there web site seems to be down), in California. I can get you a number if you can't find them. ------------------ Pete Paraska - 73 540Z - Marathon Z Project - pparaska@home.com">pparaska@home.com - Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Anonymous Posted November 27, 2000 Share Posted November 27, 2000 Does all the battery current run through the ammeter? The battery cables would have to go to the ammeter, no? There is a shunt somewhere in the engine bay I assume, and the ammeter measures a negligable amount of power. Or is there? ------------------ Morgan http://z31.com/~morgan/s30 http://carfiche.com [This message has been edited by Morgan (edited November 27, 2000).] Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mike kZ Posted November 27, 2000 Share Posted November 27, 2000 So... , do we just isolate that white/red wire and not use it? Do we also have to bridge the ammeter guage? If we don't use the white/red wire will this affect something else? [This message has been edited by Mike kZ (edited November 27, 2000).] Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Anonymous Posted November 27, 2000 Share Posted November 27, 2000 There is a shunt used, at least on the 75 280. I think the 240s are wired differently, however, but I am not sure of the configuration. You can either rewire for a Datsun voltmeter or add aftermarket. A friend of mine and I converted our L6 cars over to GM alternators and replaced the entire fusible link assembly with a platinum plated MAXI fuse block. You can get the MAXI fuses at any decent auto store. It works like a charm and converts to an internally regulated alternator at the same time. You V8 guys would have even less trouble doing the conversion. Craig Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pparaska Posted November 27, 2000 Share Posted November 27, 2000 No, all the power does not go through the ammeter, but a good portion of it does. The only reason for a big (2 gage or larger) battery cable in a car is to turn the starter. The rest of the car runs on the 10 gage wire, actually. I can get you the particulars of what does and doesn't run through the amp gage later if you like. But the alternator output goes straight to the lower right 3 fuses in the 240Z, along with a few other things not directly in the fuse box. It's a really screwy electrical system. I have the entire thing mapped out for my 73, and alot of is really stupid (the headlight circuit being the stupidest thing I've ever seen - Mark at MAD agrees it's pretty bad). I just called Mark at MAD Enterprises (559-539-7128). Mark is very sharp and knows the 240Z electrical system. He actually recommends a GM internally regulator alternator, but can help with any kind you might have. He took down his web site, as he feels there was info on there that was out of date. He prefers for people to call and talk. Make sure you use a cheap long distance carrier, as he loves to talk! This guy is the sharpest electrical/automotive guy I've run into. Give him a call. ------------------ Pete Paraska - 73 540Z - Marathon Z Project - pparaska@home.com">pparaska@home.com - Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Anonymous Posted November 27, 2000 Share Posted November 27, 2000 Thanks for that info Pete on the ammeter. I had already ordered a fuel gauge to replace mine (aftermarket) and wanted to do away with the ameter as well. and was wondering how to keep that circuit together as I figured if I disconnected it something wouldn't work. I had seen the plug in digital ammeters and was going to do likewise. Although I like to know the system is charging, its a less important gauge for me. My main concerns are water temp/oil pressure/tach. Hey if its not charging, it either quits, or doesn't start, either of which does'nt cost grand theft dough to fix. Good tip. Lone Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BLKMGK Posted November 28, 2000 Share Posted November 28, 2000 Same here on the Ammeter - dump it! I know when I unplugged mine the whole car went dead until I bolted it together. Tech tip: do this work with the battery unhooked! Tape the resulting wires carefully with many layers - a short there would be "very bad". Having at leat a warning light for the battery voltage would be nice but... I'll live. I'm replacing those three gauges with oil pressure (mechanical), water temp (mechanical), and fuel level (electrical - duh). I'd consider maybe a warning light for some of those functions too but that'll be down the road. Still have to mount my gauges and replace the vent panel - silly thing is a PITA to R&R. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ray Posted November 28, 2000 Share Posted November 28, 2000 Ever had an amp meter fry??? I did spent 2hrs on the side of the road one beautiful Saturday. Had my trusty volt meter (if you have a 240 with stock wiring carry one!!) traced it and finally pulled the heater controls, pulled the amp meter and put both wires on one stud and put it back together away I went. The car is still this way and my cousin drives it to school every day. The Z wiring system doesn't say lucas on it but it can act the same. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Anonymous Posted November 28, 2000 Share Posted November 28, 2000 Yeah, I took out the clock first, removed the glovebox (a alternate way of getting to the gauges per Datsun's chassis and body service manual) and 28yr old cardboard glove boxes doesn't appreciate being moved around much. Crumble, crumble. Once out though, it was easy to get to the gauges. I'm going to make a template and brake a new glove box from aluminum when I get done. Definately will tape the connections thoroughly. I had an old chevy truck with the cloth wires short the heater wire once. Had to pull over and get out of the cab cause of the smoke. Don't wanna do that again for sure.(or worse!) Lone Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest kc6wfs Posted November 28, 2000 Share Posted November 28, 2000 Thanks guys, I had wired it up to the white/red wire but will change it in the morning. Also will go through and disable the amp meter. I did also have one fry on a other car I had a long time ago. Thanks for reminding me of that. hehe I did run a fuseable link from the alt though. But I have not installed the battery yet. Hope nothing smokes on Sat!! That's when I hope to start her up and check things out. I ordered the driveshaft today and it'll be done tomorrow. Also Cannon Engineering has the adaptor flange instock if any one in the Los Angeles area ever needs one. I was surprised with that!! Well I'll keep you all updated on how this weekend goes. Dave Booth http://www.geocities.com/kc6wfs/240z.html Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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