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'83 280ZXT Bulid up questions


Guest 1QWIKV&Z

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Guest 1QWIKV&Z

Hi everyone. I'm new here but far from new to the car game. However, this is my first turbo car. I have an '83 280ZX Turbo that was in stock condition when I got it.

 

So far...I have done Intercooler (Turbocoupe core with 3" tanks), BOV, MSD Inline fuel pump (125PSI, can support 500hp), Centerforce 2 clutch, rebuilt T5 transmisson, boost guage (autometer), MBC, rear shocks and springs (tokico), turbo timer (apex-i), 2.5" CAT back (came with car) and air-fuel guage (autometer).

 

I had the boost up and it was peaking at 13.5-14PSI and would drop back and settle at about 11PSI.

 

After about 2 weeks driving the car like that with no problems what-so-ever the turbo has developed a loud whurring noise. I felt the shaft and it has quite a bit of side to side play and the impeller spins but there is a definite resistance.

 

Soo..I have a pooched turbo and don't have the money yet to purchase the new T04E that I want. I managed t get a used (yet recently rebuilt) Garret AiResearch T3 from a volvo 740.

 

Will this fit my 280? I believe everything is exactly the same exept for the trim.

 

Also...I have 2 additional injectors to install once I get the larger turbo (720cc each) and will run these off an AIC (which I still have to get). Is this the route to take or is the SDS fuel system that much better to warrant spending the extra $$$??

 

Also...I think my fuel pump is pushing too much fuel (to the point of almost stalling at idle) anone have a fuel pressure regulator that they recommend using?

 

Anything else I should keep in mind?

 

Thanks.

Rob.

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Welcome Rob and nice litst of mods on your car!

 

It is not uncommon for the MBC to boost creep especially at cold temps...just an FYI, most people install an electronic boost controller to address this issues. I am running the TurboXS HighPerformance MBC and it boost creeps some what but the car is running fine, and I am always very watchful at my boost gauge as I put my foot into it.

 

A word of recommendation, get rid of the 2.5" exhaust and go 3.0" full madrel too, your car will thank you a million times over AND so will your butt dyno!

 

I would prefer the SDS over an AIC, yes its more $$ and more of a headache to install and set-up, but SDS has great customer support, there are many folks running this set-up on their Turbo Datsuns and making sickening power. I prefer a good standalone over a bunch of add on boxes like the AIC. Alternatively you can look into the Megasquirt standalone EFI or converting your car to the 1984 and newer 300Zx Turbo MAPHot wire EFI, there is a sticky on this great thread in the Turbo section of this forum. Both the Megasquirt and the 300ZX EFI is much cheaper than the SDS, if you are looking for something a little cheaper.

 

The Garrett off the Volvo 740 should fit your Datsun with no issues.

 

I also recommend the boost sensitive Aeromotive FPR (very inexpensive from Summit or Jegs) to control your fuel pressure, quite a few of us are running this FPR with great results.

 

Hope that helps and answers your questions.

 

Regards - Yasin

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Guest 1QWIKV&Z

Thanks! The 3" exhaust is on the list for sure....just a matter of letting the wallet recover a little. :D

 

Whats the best/easiest way to get the turbo out? I'm not expecting it to be easy since the car is 21 years old and the turbo hasn't been touched.

 

Do you guys recommend going through the bottom or removing the intake manifold and removing it through the top?

 

thanks.

Rob.

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You don't have to remove the manifolds to get the turbo out.

The Volvo turbo (i believe is a 45 trim (.48a/r exd.) You will outflow that turbo very quickly. It may or may not hold boost effectively to redline.

As far as your boost issues, that is not creep. That is a spike. Harmless as long as you have the fuel to support it. Which you should. Aeromotive makes about the best FPR out there. I highly recommend it. Runs about 110-140 bucks.

 

 

Have fun :)

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