Guest Magnum Rockwilder Posted October 23, 2004 Share Posted October 23, 2004 I've been searching for a while, and I figured I'd go ahead and post a thread. I'm looking for the cheapest source of Chevy V8 mounts and a mount for a 700r-4 (or possibly a th350). I'm not set on whether I want the setback or Scarab style. I'm actually leaning towards the Scarab because I can use full length headers and gain more power than with block huggers. My only issue is hood clearance, because I just painted my hood and don't have any type of scoop. I think with all aluminum accessories and a rear mounted battery I can get the weight balanced. So far the cheapest source I can think of is to buy the JTR book and make them myself, but I'm unsure of whether I have the necessary equipment. I have access to a grinder, chop saw, drill press, hydraulic press, oxyacetylene torch, and MIG welder, but my fabrication skills are novice at best. Any input on ease of fabrication? Any cheap sources for a kit? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest 305240 Posted October 24, 2004 Share Posted October 24, 2004 If you want cheap, the cheapest swap I've ever did was drop a 5.0 into my 240. Actual swap money was 11 bux for the metal to make the mounts. I spent 16 bux and screwed up the first try. I kept the stock stang exhaust manifolds and stock 72 trans mounting bracket. Now, that's cheap. Then you have to add the rest of the cost for completing the swap. It should be the same for any engine you put into it. As For the Chevy, set it back and low. Get the JTR book and copy the prints and fab your own. The HP gain you may get with long tube over block huggers are so minimual you will never notice it. What you will notice is the handling using the JTR install. Trust us, you will be much happier. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dan Juday Posted October 24, 2004 Share Posted October 24, 2004 If your fab skills are wanting you may find that your frustration level will quickly rise to the $300+ level of the JTR kit. I found the kit to be very well made and a bargan. Even though I could make it myself I chose to buy it (twice) and I'm very happy I did. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
love-my-V8-280Z Posted October 24, 2004 Share Posted October 24, 2004 Dans very right, I went and bought the steel and tryed to fab my own. When I punched and drilled the holes they are off just a 1/8 or so. that is a lot when you are trying to line up 3 holes, I went and drilled the holes out a little bigger. Well gave it some thought and figured that it was just to much risk to have the motor shifting back and forth a 1/8" or more over and over... I think in the time it would get lose and sloppy, maybe break.. I also tryed to find the raditor he recommends and could not. I just forked over the $250 for his radiator and suport brackets, which look very nice. Probably could have saved $70, but I know lots of people that have to pay $250 for a new radiator... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Magnum Rockwilder Posted October 24, 2004 Share Posted October 24, 2004 I have some pretty decent skills, but I'm no pro. I work on cars and motorcycles for a living, but most of my fabrication has been done by my recently retired father, who no longer wishes to wield a torch. LOL I have 2 Mazda RX7's with V8 conversion kits, and the way I did them was I bought one kit and then had my dad fab a copy. He did t BETTER than the original, with show quality welds and extra reinforcements added. Maybe if I buy the JTR book he'll work alongside me and give me some help. Now, I know none of you want to hear this, but I have to voice my opinion: My biggest concern is whether I want to use the setback or not. In the beginning, the car is going to have a mild 350 or 400 with <300HP, but after my wife gets used to the power I plan to install a 412ci engine that has about 500hp and has a 150hp shot of nitrous on it. There's no way that engine can breathe through block huggers. It has been with 2" primary long tube headers, and there's no way I can fit them in with the setback. I've been a member of this site for a year now, so I've read up on all aspects and still haven't made up my mind. I've read that with all aluminum accessories and a relocated battery you can get a 50/50 balance with the Scarab style, and I'm running electric fans anyways, so I don't really need the extra space in front of the engine. The main benefit I can think of with the Scarab style is the headers, and the only benefit I can think of for the setback is the fact that I can buy he manual with the specs. Where do the Motorsport mounts fit in? The catalog says "places the engine closest to the firewall for optimum weight distribution"... so is it the same as JTR?!?! The kit with 2 motor mounts and a 700r4 tranny mount is only $197! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Magnum Rockwilder Posted October 24, 2004 Share Posted October 24, 2004 I just read a post where I guy says with the Motorsport kit the valve cover is 3.5" from the firewall,a nd he's running a high rise single plane intake with a 4" air cleaner. How does this compare to Scarab and JTR? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pop N Wood Posted October 24, 2004 Share Posted October 24, 2004 The guy who wrote the JTR manual is a member of this site (screen name MikeJTR). He wrote in another thread that one of his primary motivations for the setback position was to get the shifter of a T5 tranmission to come out in the stock position. All the stuff about weight distribution was more to "promote" the kit. So auto or manual will be a consideration for you. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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