Guest Anonymous Posted November 30, 2000 Share Posted November 30, 2000 well, it's the day after my first drag session (I'm Tellin Ya...) and the car started fine like 5 times today, no problem, but when I went to my neutral on the interstate to keep from overheating, the car stalled and I coasted to the next exit... I looked at the gas gauge and it said I was close to E so I ran to the gas station, got some gas and put 2 gallons in to be on the safe side. The car won't start, it turns over, but it won't start up. Keep in mind, last night I messed with the carb and the timing, but it has started like 10 times with no problems since I made the last adjustments. Any thoughts? ------------------ pics of my babies at www.rotarypowered.com/cym and at www.dodgeviper.net/260z Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Anonymous Posted November 30, 2000 Share Posted November 30, 2000 Here's what happened... The HEI unit on the car burnt the control module and maybe more, I'm going to pop the distributor and see what all needs to be replaced, I'll keep ya posted since everyone's reading this. ------------------ pics of my babies at www.rotarypowered.com/cym and at www.dodgeviper.net/260z Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pparaska Posted November 30, 2000 Share Posted November 30, 2000 The rotor on the HEI is notorious for burning through to the mechanical advance mechanism below it. There are some good replacements out there tha use better/thicker plastic in this area to prevent that. Check the cap of course, and lube the mechanical advance pivots, etc. Not much else to go wrong in there. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Anonymous Posted December 1, 2000 Share Posted December 1, 2000 Well, I went to get the control module... Then found that the distributor cap was fried also... So, I get a new cap, rotor, and control module. I replace all the pieces and the only thing left to replace is the coil on top. I don't have a car for tomorrow and will end up bumming rides to go find parts. If anyone else has any idea if this is the final fix, let me know, this has been a very hectic day!!! LOL ------------------ pics of my babies at www.rotarypowered.com/cym and at www.dodgeviper.net/260z Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Anonymous Posted December 1, 2000 Share Posted December 1, 2000 I went ahead and got the coil, and a new battery (mine was low). I have replaced everything except for the main casing and gear of the HEI and nothing! I have no idea what the problem is. Can someone please help me. ------------------ pics of my babies at www.rotarypowered.com/cym and at www.dodgeviper.net/260z Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pparaska Posted December 1, 2000 Share Posted December 1, 2000 Not sure you looked into this, but: With the key on, check for 12V from the wire that plugs into the "BAT" terminal on the HEI cap. Or did you maybe plug that wire into the "TACH" terminal by mistake? ------------------ Pete Paraska - 73 540Z - Marathon Z Project - pparaska@home.com">pparaska@home.com - Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mike kZ Posted December 1, 2000 Share Posted December 1, 2000 Is that a fused 12v wire, check your fuses. If not trace the wire back to see if it burnt through. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Anonymous Posted December 1, 2000 Share Posted December 1, 2000 Well, here's what I got from an entire day messing with it. well, I went to mess with the two wires going to the dist... one red one green... traced the green, it goes to the tach. Traced the red and it goes to a board that connects it to a green/yellow. Followed the green and yellow all the way back under the passenger dash and lost it... well, I took the red that was connected to that green/yellow and put it on the battery to give the dist direct voltage from the battery. Well it cranked!!!!! It ran a little off, but I think it's timing... Anyway, I turned it off to celebrate and it wouldn't cut off until I removed the wire from the battery... my thoughts are that the green/yellow took it to an ecu that knew when the ignition turned off... thoughts? ------------------ pics of my babies at www.rotarypowered.com/cym and at www.dodgeviper.net/260z Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Anonymous Posted December 2, 2000 Share Posted December 2, 2000 Well, I temporarily fixed it... I took a two way toggle switch, and took the wire from the distributor to one side of the switch and a direct battery wire to the other. I have to turn the switch on to start the car and turn it off to turn the car off, but I can't take the keys out or it will lock the steering wheel up and turn off the radio. This is temporary until I find the green/yellow (suspected ignition wire somewhere) Until then, I'm stuck with a switch. ------------------ pics of my babies at www.rotarypowered.com/cym and at www.dodgeviper.net/260z Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Drax240z Posted December 2, 2000 Share Posted December 2, 2000 Now that its wired in, why not hide the toggle switch somewhere out of eyesight and use it as a security device? ------------------ "Gimme Fuel, Gimme Fire, Gimme that which I desire" -Metallica Drax240z 1972 240z - L28TURBO transplant on the way! http://members.xoom.com/r_lewis/datsun.html http://members.home.net/drax77/newpage.html Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest pauli Posted December 2, 2000 Share Posted December 2, 2000 this is something i've spent a bit of time thinking about if you want to go all out, get a solenoid and position it next to the switch, setup so it would push the switch into the off position. then, via the magic of electrical voodoo (i think a NOT gate, a relay (or is that built into the gate?), and a capacitor would do the trick, but i'm not sure), set it up so that when the key goes to off, the solenoid fires and forces the switch to the off position. there, now your car secretly hits its own kill switch, providing you with hidden security (nobody will see you go for a toggle when you get out of the car). Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Anonymous Posted December 2, 2000 Share Posted December 2, 2000 Here's my concern about the switch, now that it's in there, I like it. The one thing that I am worried about is the original wire... How did it get burnt out? Is there fusable link that blew? Did it ground out with another wire or short with another wire or what? If something is really wrong with that green/yellow wire, I could potentially have a dash fire. That is my only concern now. I love the "race car" switch now, if I dress it up nice, it might even make my gf like the car now jk ------------------ pics of my babies at www.rotarypowered.com/cym and at www.dodgeviper.net/260z Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pparaska Posted December 3, 2000 Share Posted December 3, 2000 Pauli, you could do that with a realy or two, and de-activate the kill relay with a reed switch (like home security systems use on windows) so that there are no visible switches. This is exactly what I'm going to be installing shortly. Hid the read switch, swipe (discretely) a magnet over it to de-activate it when you get in the car, and no one knows you have the system or where to follow the wires to (from a visible or found switch). V8 VPR, I'd be worried about that electrical problem as well and I'd chase it down to the source. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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