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Shaving the doors - where can I find the hardware?


kurtwwalters

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I have searched the archives (very old posts), but I don't see any links or names of companies that sell this hardware. What I'm looking for is a combo alarm and door solenoid. Prefferably something with the spring that kicks the door open (if such an animal exists). Has anyone done this recently? I figure I'll leave my rear hatch lock alone so I can get in to open the door if the battery goes dead. Any info appreciated.

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bought mine from summit racing

 

http://www.summitracing.com/

 

 

... combined alarm and door release.

 

my buddy has already removed and welded a plate over where the original door handles were.

 

you could easily use the new automotive glue, and glue a plate over the hole, and bondo it over.

 

if welding, be very careful, the metal is thin and wants to oil can warp the door ( how the bottom of the old style old can, the one you would use to apply a couple drops of oil out the tip of the tube ... bonk a bonk ). heat sink the area big time. also, protect the glass with a heavy welding blanket .. spatter will ruin the glass.

 

the kit from summit comes with most of the wiring and the solenoids, the "computer" wireless communications, 2 remotes, metal door poppers.

 

the solenoid is on a plate ... 4 holes in the plate ...

 

when the interior door handle is removed ... the factory rod drops down to the bottom of the door.

 

the solenoid has a metal bar with a hole in it, the factory rod has a hole on the end of it.

 

with the plate, you can use that same automotive glue, glue the late to the inside of the bottom of the door ( it will hold ). connect the bar in the solenoid and rod together, then wire it up.

 

or ... there are 4 holes on the plate ... two of them line up with two holes, where the factory interior handle was ... drill two more holes and mount the plate sideways, using bolts, this too reaches the factory rod that is uses to open the door.

 

the kit includes interior switches to electrically open the doors, so the interior handles go away ...

 

for peace of mind in the event of a power failure ... by disconnecting the interior locking mechanism, the rod that sticks up through the door, to lock and unlock the door from the inside, can easily be adapted, connecting it to the door release mechanism within the doors, thus allowing one to pull up on that rod ( as if unlocking the door ), and open the doors. open the hatch, crawl in, pull up on the door lock knob, opens the door. that advise was given here by some one else a few months back.

 

sorry i have no pictures, mine is not finished ...

 

short version ... friend of friend, body shop, free body work ( my friend trading labor for use of his friend's shop ). his friend gets minimum of $5000 for a scrub and paint ( car is perfect, customer wants his mercedes or rolls royce a custom color ), agreed to paint my z for $1500 .. cost of materials only .. complete change of color ... will look like factory paint inside and out, no way to tell what original color was. shop is in santa cruz ca. 40 miles from home. 80 mile round trip every other night after work for my friend ( i am not invited to play ...insurance reasons and i'd be in the way ). most of rust repaired, custom metal work to fix hidden rust ( this is ca. z ...one of those supposedly 95% rust free z cars ... don't believe it !!! ), some custom body work ... 4 months so far ...

 

silent partners in body shop ( his friend's parents ), decide to sell shop.

new owner ( friend of previous owner ) says all project cars out of here.

new owner is friend of my friend, agrees my z can stay until all body work is completed, but no paint job.

 

rain, bad weather, overtime at work, 3 weeks my friend doesn't make it to shop. calls, all is well, no worries with new owner, can stay until finished.

 

last week, 5:30 am, go to get morning paper, z is in my driveway, soaking wet, no hood, windows down, no quarter glass, interior gutted, rained that night. tow truck must have dropped it off after midnight, some time after i went to bed.

 

my friend knew nothing, his friend knew nothing.

 

my friend is hesitant to work in my driveway, without proper tools, has more or less washed his hands of it ... he feels terrible about what happened. not his fault. he was trying to help me out, as was his friend.

 

about 50 to 75 % of the body work has been completed.

 

my cash outlay was only $600. there is roughly 1500 to 2 grand worth of body work already done on the car ( had i paid shop rates ). my friend ROCKS !!!

 

i had no money to start the body and paint ... as i said, my friend was trying to help me out.

 

so, now i have a gutted, half finished, stripped z car under a blue tarp in my driveway ... no money to finish it.

 

shed no tears .. i'm not whining or complaining ...

 

just letting you know, it's not finished ... YET !!!

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opps !!! forgot to say i was paying for his gas and camping fees for his motor home, when goes on vacation dirt bike riding, and materials ...

 

feather fill epoxy primer ... block sanded ... another coat of same primer .... block sanded ... third coat of primer .... block sanded ... 5 coats of color ... all hand block sanded, between coats ... color sanded ... 5 coats of clear ... all color sanded between coats.

 

i've seen his work, people ship cars across the country ( some brand new cars ) to have this guy paint em.

 

he does get an average of 5 grand for a basic scrub and paint color change. he got 8 grand to paint a ferriari i can't spell it ... you know, one of those fancy fiats ...

 

 

 

body work and a 5 thousand dollar paint job for $1500 ...

 

i was happy to pay it !!!!

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Leaving an 'unsealed' car under a non-breathing tarp might not be the best idea. You could get mold forming in the open 'pores' of the primer, and have many problems when time comes to topcoat it. I'd suggest a very good quality breathable (Technalon-type) car cover. You didn't ask for my .02; but, I thought a word of caution would be okay.... Glad you got such a great deal on the prep!

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thanks for thinking of me, regarding the rust ...

 

car is not prepped for paint .. is still at least 90% the crappy, quicky paint job, thrown on it back around 1975.

 

i asked of i need worry about the rust, as i know the bondo absorbs water and primer is porous to water. painter says, no worries, is same primer/ sealer, with rust preventatives that mercedes uses at the factory.

 

friend removed all emblems ( shaved the chrome ), removed that, after market anti-door ding rubber strip, removed the outside mirrors, used a mig and welded all the holes shut, used metal ( lead ??? ) to finish the basic body work, then bondo to smooth it.

 

cut and welded in tabco panels ( all of them had to be modified, none of them were correct ), lower front fenders, and dog legs. all of it sprayed with the mercedes primer/sealer.

 

my friend trial fit the the door kit i bought from SUMMIT ... told me back when the z was in the body shop, would be a piece of cake to do.

 

now that the car is home, i see that, the mechanics of it, will be really easy to do. the hardest part, as i see it now, will be running the wiring for the remote sensors and the alarm portion of the kit.

 

the door kit has been moved down a few notches on my to do list ...

 

i'm a bit depressed/disappointed over the whole thing ... thinking this was a done deal, i spent what was left of my project money on food and stuff like that ( lights, garbage bill, water ). plus, i bought my son an 88 fiero GT. he's 15, if he holds his 3.6 grade average, he gets it when he's 17. he figures, he's getting my z, anyway, so there's no need to buy one for him... LOL ...

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