240Z2NV

Cannot go wrong with Techno Toy Tuning. Game is a GREAT Vendor !

Did anything ever come of these ?

Dave is a Top Notch Guy, who does TOP Notch work ! He has done NUMEROUS pieces of varied application for me. Trust him 100%

Where in southern CA are you ? I'm in Long Beach now, and you can scan mine. I bought two from Brad a decade or more ago. Sold one to a neighbor, and have one sitting on my dining room table awaiting install. I haven't been on this site in a LONG time ... Life got in the way. I don't even know if Messaging would work here for me, so use AldosPapa@me.com

Years of cars that parts were acquired from, part numbers, pics .... ANY of that would be very worthwhile sharing. The story, and technical sleuthing is terrific; but, if you're going be a trailblazer, please share the wealth from the experience ...

I'd like to piggyback this Thread because I have a similar dilemma. My car has been in mothballs for years due to an unanticpated "Life Change". I am desperately trying to get it back together. Similarly, I am trying to rebuild the door guts; but my 'issue' is a bit smaller. Does anyone have an in tact window, w/ regulator hanger that they can post a pic of the SPECIFIC ORIGINAL Screw that holds the glass to the regulator hanger ? I have buckets of screws & bolts, and am pretty fanatical about using the "correct" piece. I found the threaded metal 'washers', and nylon 'washers'; but the threaded 'washer' hole is bigger than the threaded hole on the hanger that the glass mounts to. I am likely not using the correct terminology; but, if you have an idea, or want clarification, please EMAIL me. Thanks VERY MUCH !! Stan DogRescuer@iCloud.com

I haven't been on the site in YEARS. My build sits in a storage shed under four layers of moving blankets. All that is needed is some wiring finished up and tuning; but, alas, no place to work on it since losing my home. Somehow, early in this thread, my gut told me the FFR Coupe ... A-W-E-S-O-M-E CHOICE !! Their best product IMHO !! Did you go to the Annual Gathering in HB ? I was there many, many hours salivating over the cars. Lamenting on all of the time & money poured into the Z build, when I could have been driving the Coupe long ago. At the time, my decision was based upon the fact that the Coupe requires the big investment Up Front, whereas I've been able to spread the cost of my Z build out over 6+ YEARS :~( lol ... a post early in the Thread about the coupe "copying" the Z body lines ... err uhh, other way around fella ! [Can't remember who it was]. Someone didn't know their history ... Daytona was 60's, Z car 70's ... Anyway, GREAT Choice, GREAT job ! Someday, I'll be there ... hopefully. My Z definitely has the looks, & attention-to-detail to get good money if I auctioned it, then I could do the Coupe, as well ... always been my dream car since my teens [that's a LONG time!]. Doesn't do me much good to 'dream', when I have NO place to work on cars any longer [used to have 3 car garage]. Hell, it may be many MORE years before I can finish my [rotisserie-built] Z Project ! :~( Congrats ...

Yes ....

Greg at Altec Products is INCREDIBLY Service-Oriented. I am certain that he would email you directions if needed. He has helped me on every occasion without any hassle...and I have NO affiliation with him or company. Just great service !

"Correct" is very subjective ... if YOU like the look, that is 'correct' ....

I have not put too much effort into photo-documenting, and doing write-ups. Just not really my thing. It has been a LONG project ... survived near death personal injury, business failure, marriage failure, yada, yada, yada. Car sees light at the end of a long, dark tunnel. Thank God Mike is helping me button up all of the TECHNICAL aspects, for which I am the Geico Caveman [or is it Progressive?]. I saw so many deadline goals come & go; but, I just got enough resolve to say 'I'm going to finish it damnit'. Once all of the electrical is sorted, the final assembly will be a snap. All of the panels are ready to go, and the interior as well. For those who have not come across my previous posts here bear in mind, when Mike and I lifted this car up [bare handed] and set it on a flat bed trailer a handful of years ago, it was a SHELL. That is how it started ... no suspension, no interior [AT ALL], no glass, nada, zip, zilch. Just a sheet metal carcass. With that in mind, yes, the car has come a LONG way. First 'plan' was a nicely 'massaged' LT1/4L60E. Shortly after Mike was one of the first on the site to do the LS swap, I got 'infected' by the "well if I'm going to do ...., I might as well ...." bug ... MUCH worse than Swine Flu or Avian Flu. Body & paint was a huge uphill journey, as well ... and that was the phase that I most looked forward to ... ironic. Anyway, just wanted to check in, as I didn't believe that Mike really posted pics of my build here [without me knowing it ;~) ]. I will gladly answer questions that I am capable of ... but, Mike is THE resource on this ... I merely scratched my head, cursed, wasted money, and 'redid' phases to get it here. I don't see myself creating a Build Thread, as many of you so diligently do [and MUCH APPRECIATED, by the way]. That being said, if I can help in any way, I would be happy to since the site has helped me so much. It should not be long before Mike posts [leaks] pics of the streetable finished phase. Stay tuned ...

This is merely another [RELIABLE] option to say, the Delta Unit ... which is what I was going to get myself. That being said, I just have come in contact with too many people [in person] who have had Quality Control issues with their DCC units. The controller is outstanding [in theory]; but, those whom I have met that have had defects have had a very difficult time getting them resolved. This set-up [mentioned in today's 'dialogue'] may not offer all of the bells & whistles; but, it does exactly what it is supposed to do... and, should be pretty idiot proof. And, for those of you who have read some of my other 'Electrical Dilemma' threads/posts, I am a bit obsessive about good wire gauge, and these have really thick wires ! :~)

It is ... didn't realize that he was marketing them on eBay already. His big target market is rock crawlers & four wheelers. I was under the impression his price point would be a bit less; but, eBay fees and all .....

Just as an additional FYI, for those 'Electronically Challenged' [like myself], I collaborated with a guy that produced REALLY SLICK Plug-N-Play Wiring/Relay Harnesses to handle these high draw fans. His prices are reasonable, considering the time savings, and the quality of the assembly. His contact info is: info@thoroco.com Name is Dave. He has Field Tested the set for several weeks under very demanding conditions [towing a large boat & trailer]. Tell him Stan referred you. I get no compensation whatsoever. He sent me one of the finished pieces as a 'Thank You' for providing him with so much info on the Taurus/Lincoln fans, and I was REALLY very impressed [which isn't easy to do].

The Lincoln fan is 18" and the Taurus is 17". Both use the same motor. If you are buying it online, as opposed to pulling it at the jy yourself, try to get BOTH connectors [M & F]. The shroud on the Lincoln AND Taurus are the same if I'm not mistaken. I have a few of both; but not accessible at this moment. There is so much written about these fans online, you could kill HOURS reading about them. It is as reliable and effective a method for cooling as the SBC is the foundation for pretty much ALL V8s...

The TOP pic is the 2 Spd. [Three wires]. The bottom is from a 3.0 not a 3.8 if memory serves me. The bottom is DEFINITELY NOT the one that most use/talk about. The other option is the larger 2 Spd found on Lincolns & some T Birds. On that one, the blades are more 'pie shaped'. A general internet search will have all that you need to know. I also believe that comparison pics are elsewhere here on hybrid.

Went to local Parts Dept. at dealership. He had no clue what the "amplifier" was, and couldn't find any reference on the fiche....

Still a bit confused as to whether I need to try to hunt this piece down at jy, since I am now using 280Z column controls. I am also using the Honda Civic wiper motor ... if that makes a difference. On to a different topic, since our cars are [relatively] small, it is crucial how close a relay or fuse is to the item that it is operating/protecting ? [e.g. the distance from the fuse box and/or relays to say, the fuel pump or the electric fan] Is it important to have the fuse or relay close to the electric fan? Thanks...

That's all it is ?!? I thought that it would be some sort of metallic assembly with wires coming out of it [sort of like a miniature (old style) voltage regulator housing]. It is nothing more than a relay ? Is it possible for you to identify the specs on it ? My 280Z schematics printed from Autozone just show it as a 'rectangular' box. Regardless, thanks for the info. Then again, since you replied, I pulled out that Autozone Schematic, and it shows TWO Blu/Yel wires going to the Wiper Switch [from the "Amplifier"], which seems unlikely. So, now I question that accuracy of the schematics .... ? The 240Z schematics that I printed, prior to acquiring a factory Service Manual from 'FleaBay', did match the factory schematics in the book.

Thank you so much for a thorough, detailed explanation. I iwll try to find the piece at the jy tomorrow. Thanks again !!

Does anyone who might have read this thread have a 280Z, and have ever traced their Windshield Wiper circuit down completely ? The circuit has a component referred to as a 'Intermittent Wiper Amplifier' containing seven wires, including a ground wire. Because I am using column controls from a 280Z, it would be helpful if I knew where this component was located on the car; and, try to find one at the jy. Wire colors coming out of it should be: Yel/Grn , Yel , Blu/Wht , Blu/Yel , Yel , Blu/Red , and Blk. Thanks...

Rolland, thanks for the clarification. I contacted several of the [big] harness manufacturers and asked the same question "what AWG wire do you use for XXX circuit ?" They virtually ALL used at least TWO AWG 'sizes' SMALLER than every book that I have [recently] read. Some of the circuits that invariably used too small a AWG were Starting and Alternator circuits, among others. I have posted on this finding more than once over the years on threads, since so many [threads] pop-up [in duplicate] again, and again. I have read about pending legal action against some 'kit' manufacturers for that very reason [presume resulting in damage of some sort]. Many reply saying that I worry too much, or that they must be good since they sell so many. I choose not to be a sheep, and follow [only] because so many others do it. Which is NOT a specific accusation by the way to those reading this thread. It is a generalization to illustrate a point. And, for worrying too much ... I spent a whole summer on a showcar build when I was younger. It had been complete maybe a couple of weeks, when I had a catastrophic electrical fire, resulting in the [literal] meltdown of the car ... right before my eyes !! I had just finished detailing the exterior, done some wiring to the stereo system, and gone inside for lunch. Came out when my house began to fill with smoke, and the car was ablaze IN MY GARAGE !!! In retrospect, I surmize that what had happened was that there was an arc of some sort in the wiring that I had just done on the sound system, which ignited the glue under the carpet that I also had just sprayed. KABOOM !! Big flames !! Since that event, which was more than 20yrs ago, I NEVER want to under-engineer ANY vehicle electrical circuit. I would much prefer extreme overkill engineering than to go through a fire again. If they are mutually exclusive events, fine. But, I have TONS of wire, and too much time, so I would rather take two extra steps to really ensure that it eceeds virtually any standard. Rolland, my Father was an airline pilot, and my closest friend is a 30 yr jet mechanic at LAX [AiResearch ?? formerly Garrett ??], so I understand what you were saying about that Learjet. MANY lives are at stake with aircraft safety, which explains the [in most cases] rigid standards. I prefer to [almost] engineer my car to the same standard of accuracy, especially in the matter of electrical. I am also aware that there are MANY grades & qualities of wire, separate from the AWG issue. I try my best to ensure that I am using QUALITY grade wire, often marine-grade, tinned wire. Ironically, when I pulled some harnesses off of luxury cars at PnP, when some of them did have a label, they were made in CHINA !!! This, on Lexus, Acura, Inifiniti cars !! I was shocked. EVERYTHING that I have read and/or assumed was to avoid Chinese wire at all cost. Who knows at this point ... ? Best that I can do is make an effort to be safe, and use quality components; but, some things are beyond my [reasonable] control .... just like Rolland, and his shift manager who denied his efforts [been there - done that ... worked for those that say 'Git Er Dun' ].

No offense taken....But ... I am the ignorant one who knows nothing. The guy w/ 38 yrs Aviation experience is Rolland who has been helping me. Two separate people.

I'll be thorough enough to put the Painless Topic 'to bed'. I decided long ago, for more than one reason NOT to use a Painless set-up. I have stockpiled my supplies over the six year span of this build, so turning around now to buy a Painless kit would make their Pain[ful] price even more objectionable. I have TONS of wire, and connectors, and such. And doing it from scratch also enables me to use heavier gauge wire than that which is often used in kits, which, according to the 'textbooks' is undersized. As for circuits, I realize that I can 'create' any circuit that I choose; but, I am trying to lay it out logically. The turn signal circuit ONLY encompasses elements that directly pertain to turn signals. I have 48+ fuse slots available to me, so I can create as many smaller breakdowns as I like. The relays, I don't mind overkill. I have had a car burn up in front of me over electrical, so I figure 'a pound and a half of prevention is worth TEN pounds of cure'. So if there is even a slight incling that a ciruit could use a relay, I'd like to have one. Each project box houses ten relays [or more], and the boxes are nice and tidy. I am still working through the Wiper circuit [using Honda motor]. The control lever is not 'testing' out as hoped. Have to study that schematic more, and perhaps trace some wires down on a jy car. I have A LOT of modern 'convenience' items on my car, so I have to account for it. Using all new switches, with the exception of column control switches. Rolland has been incredibly helpful, and patient. Just trying to 'spread out' the 'burden'.

'...Hoke' Nice install. Similar to the route that I am going. I have pics of the project box enclosures that I made with Waytek fuses panels and relay boards; but, haven't put them on a pic hosting site. I will be trying to keep the kick panel area as clear as possible, since I hoped to surface mount front speakers there. I am mounting the project box enclosures on the 'face' of the riser for the rear deck [just behind the seat]. My big stumbling block is looking at a circuit and being able to say "This function is - switched..." or "This function is + switched..." or "This is a Double Negative switch..." and the normally open or normally closed thing. I can be referred to site-after-site; but, having read just short of three books so far, and still not 'getting it', it isn't likely that another one will click. THIS is why I offered to PAY SOMEONE to just tell me which function is which. And, after over 190 'views', is it inappropriate to be 'disappointed' that only a couple of folks have stepped up to offer a plan ? Roland has tried very hard to bang the stuff out; but, he has a Life, too, and shouldn't be burdened with nailing the WHOLE thing down for me ... regardless of compensation. So '...Hoke', I WILL shoot you a question or two ; but .... I DID say 'don't mention the Painless route...' :~)