Alternator Woes

[Guest tony78_280z]

At an idle my volts is way low, like 8-10. When I rev the motor it jumps up to 12-14. Then when I let up it drops back down.

 

First, Please note my vehicle stats at the signature below.

 

Second, I haven't gotten the tack set up correctly yet so I can't give an RPM at idle, but the motor sounds real good at idle.

 

Third, I know I had the altenator wires 1 and 2 backwards at one point. (Drained the battery dead)

 

Fourth, the battery is pretty dead. I got it on the charger for the night and will mess with it more tomorrow.

 

Is my alternator shot? (don't say that cause I lost the reciept) Is this great RPM based change due to the mostly drained battery? Or is my alternator not pushing enough power at idle? How do I fix that? Should my car be able to run disconnected from the bat posts? (I remove the battery cables the car runs for half a second and then dies.)

 

Thanks for any input. (Even the sarcastic ones)

I'm also posting this in the electrical section

[Guest Magnum Rockwilder]

Go to Auto Zone or another parts store and they can test your alternator and voltage regulator ON THE CAR... for FREE.

 

If you want a replacement alternator, I'll sell you one with 30 miles on it, only a month old, for $50, and I'll throw in a good used voltage regulator.

[Guest tony78_280z]

Autozone monkeys are idiots. I've taken an alt I KNEW was good and it tested bad. I got a buddy who says he took one he knew was bad and it tested good. Those guys can barely run their computer much less test an alternator. Ever notice how they can't find a part if you don't have a make and model for a car. I tell them I need jets for my Holley carb. They immediatly say "what year car?"