Metro Posted January 23, 2005 Share Posted January 23, 2005 I have ZG flares on my car with 17x9 275's in the rear. Since I'm going to repaint my car, time to cut the fenders. I was wondering if anyone had pictures of the fender lip after it had been cut. I know how and where I'm suppose to cut and weld (thanks to blueovalz), but I was just wondering if anyone had some pictures of the process. I think some people have posted pictures before, but I can't seem to find them. Thanks! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Metro Posted January 23, 2005 Author Share Posted January 23, 2005 To better explain, what I'm wondering is, how far around should I cut? Do you only cut the top part of the fender (the blue oval) or do you cut all the way around like to the red oval. If you only cut the top, how do you blend it in? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
olie05 Posted January 23, 2005 Share Posted January 23, 2005 This is a picture of dan juday's car, while it was being worked on... http://www.zparts.com/showcase/djudayv8proj/shoot2/pages/14DJ_R2_.htm For the ZG's I would suggest cutting only the top part, because the flare is not that big anyway. This way you get the tire clearance that you want on a lowered car. Seems like you would only have to cut out the sides if you were going with some HUGE tires. -Oliver Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Metro Posted January 25, 2005 Author Share Posted January 25, 2005 That was the page people were talking about, but I couldn't find a link for it, thanks. I was out looking at it all tonight and I think I'll cut into the top and just cut the flat part off around the edges so it doesn't look like something is missing, except for the rear. I think I'll have to blend the back bottom part of that in because the flare doesn't go all the way down. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
blueovalz Posted January 25, 2005 Share Posted January 25, 2005 I focused on the top portion. In essence, I took the OEM arch, and then moved it up several inches. This way a full cut is made on top, and less and less material is removed as the arch progresses downward until little cutting is done at the bottom. This way you maintain some of the unibody strength with the OEM welds down low. My upper limit was determined by the crest of the wheel well. It is (IMHO) unwise to go any higher than this due to the rapidly increasing complexity of the job (which then requires the removal of the wheel well, and then the unibody strength is about shot at that point). Yes, a tube frame could make up for this loss, but again, a minor job now becomes a major job. In the case of your ZG flares, I'd trace out an outline of the flare where you want to position it, and where it then bolts (bonds) onto the body, and then cut well inside this line (to allow enough sheet metal so that the flare can be mounted correctly. This position is obviously determined by how low you want the ride height to be. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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