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steering coupler and mustache bar bushings


innerware

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OK so I thought since I had a half day today at work I would replace these two items. I have had them for a while and thought now since I had my new suspension on I would do it. My first question is this: Do I need to drop my whole differential in order to get the mustache off? Will these old bushings need to be pressed out? I couldn't seem to drop the diff enough and gave up. Question 2: The steering coupler, I couldn't get the bolts out. I was able to get the nuts off but that is as far as I got. I tried like the dickens to get the splined area to move forward and couldn't. I removed the bolt that holds the splined part and sprayed penatrating oil on it in hopes to break it loose. Is there an easier way? It boggles my mind that the bolts slide out toward the universal joint and not the other way. It is a 78 280z coupe. Thanks much guys. I'll have time this Friday to try again so I hope for some good tips.

 

Thanks,

Kyle

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I do not think removal of the differential is necessary to remove the mustache bar. If worst comes to worst, you could remove the studs that hold the bushings on by unscrewing them from inside the car (remove the rubber plugs over each stud (actually it’s a long bolt) and then unscrewing the bolt up and out. I believe as well that the cylinder that the rubber bushing is bonded to at each end of the mustache bar must be left intact (check on this from other responses) as the urethane bushings press into this "sleeve" and not solely into the bar's curled ends (as best as I can remember other posts as I've not done this myself).

 

Have you tried to remove the clamps holding the rack on and thus pull the rack forward, so that you'll get more room to shove the steering rod back up into the column? Steering coupler? Ya don't need no stinkin' steering coupler. I just removed the rubber puck, and bolted the two pieces back together again (metal on metal). There is an abundance of engaged splines inside the collapsible column to make this safe.

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You should be able to remove the two nuts on the back of the diff and the bushing bolts and get the bar out. Just support the diff with a floor jack. If you are still having trouble remove the bolt on the front diff mount and then you can shift the diff forward. That should do it. And yes, remove the rubber but leave the steel sleeve in.

 

As for the steering coupler, I just completed doing the same thing to my Z tonight. What a royal pain indeed! If you have the nuts off jamb a big screwdriver in between the "puck" and the lower section and pry it apart. The upper section, as Terry implied, will slide up into the steering column. Don't try to swap the directon of the bolts when you put it back together. The nuts and lock washers wont clear the u-joint. I had mine almost completely installed before I realized this. ERRRRRGGG!! And lastly, make sure when you reassemble you haven't rotated your steering wheel 180*. It is posible to do this and it will be upside down.

 

Oh ya, Terry's way, sans the puck, will work just fine too. But your steering wheel will need to be resplined as it will be 90* off.

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Thanks all for such great and prompt replies. I might just tackle it again this Friday or weekend. My left arm is all scratched up from trying to remove all those coupler nuts. It should go way easier the second try since all the bolts have come off receintly. The mustache bar doesn't look like it would come off that way with two bolts perpendicular to the others. But I will try harder and maybe loosen the front of the diff. Have you guys burned out the old bushings or used a hack saw? That atlanticzcar link was good indead. Thanks again,

 

Kyle

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But your steering wheel will need to be resplined as it will be 90* off

 

Thanks for keeping me honest Dan. Yep, I had to drop the steering rod all the way out of the column, turn it 90º (or closest I could come to it) and shove it back up the column again so that it would match the pinion gear, and then adjust out the few degrees the steering wheel was off.

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