Where does test selector switch on 300ZX computer need to be.

[danman]

I pulled engine codes off my computer. The instructions say to note original position of test selector screw then turn test selector screw counter-clockwise. My computers selector screw was already turned all the way counter-clockwise.

 

Where is screw supposed to be adjusted for normal driving? I turned key to on but did not start and turned screw clockwise till the red and green lights turned off.

 

I am thinking maybe my lean condition may be caused by not putting computer back into correct mode. Instructions mention car will not run correctly unless test selector is in correct position.

 

Please help.

 

Thanks

[datsunlover]

Not sure if this will help you.. I had an 89 Pathfinder and from what I can tell, it is a very similar ECU. There was actually a tiny togle switch on the side of my ECU.. Normal running, the lights (red/gree) would come on and stay on with the key at 'ON' position. To check codes, you flicked the switch over and waited for the lights to flash 3 times, then switched it back. It would then give you codes (flashes in spesific sequencees)

To my understanding, there are 4 or 5 'modes' and to get into on, you have to switch the toggle back to the normal position after the correct number of flashes, hence 3 flashes was 'code reading mode'. Oh and as far as I know, BOTH lights should be on under normal conditions (IE; key in 'ON' position) and will only flash when giving fault codes..

[danman]

Thank you for your reply. I forgot to mention that I already ran the code pulling procedure as written on Z31 website.

 

The method of switching the computer thru the different modes is an adjuster screw. The problem is there is no tactile imput when you change from one mode to the other or when the computer has been returned to normal opperating condition.

 

The fact that both lights should be on when driving is very helpful though. If indeed both lights are on when computer has been returned to normal opperation then I was running my car in testing mode after I pulled the codes oops. If that was the problem I will be so happy. Will turn on car tommorow morning. The neighbors will be thrilled I'm sure.

 

I have my dash just about completely removed, was ready to start really messing things up. By the way dash removal is no fun, always seems to be another screw holding it in.

[datsunlover]

heh heh.. I feel your pain on the dash removal.. I swaped dash boards in my old 85 200sx (changed whole interior from faded blue to nice clean grey and black) and WOW what a rats nest of wiring and screws holding evrything in... After all was said and done though, evryting worked except the power mirors. Meh.. I lived with it. The really fun part was when I fired the car up afterwards.. I changed the carpet to, and in my rush, I put the drivers side piece right OVER the throttle pedel. (yes, mashing it right to the floor) Turned the key and the thing reved to 7000 rpm before I could kill it!

[danman]

Big opps on the accelerator pedal under the carpet. lol.

 

I got dash out today and car still started. (and was there was much celebration)

 

What a mess the wiring is. I really have my work cut out for me. I think I will have to go dashless forever because I don't see getting all that mess back together.

 

Nice custom cluster for that race look maybe. It will fit in great with the street legal race car plan I am going for. If it is not needed for the car to run yank it out is my motto. I am going for 2,000 lbs and 300+ at the wheels. This will put me in Ferrari F430 territory as far as HP to weight.