Guest DoTheDrew888 Posted April 12, 2005 Share Posted April 12, 2005 Bastaad, I did see your post but I figured the differences in your setup compared to mine were enough that I was still sceptical about what to expect. I have a pretty good port and polish and mine was not overbored. Also, I will be running EFI so I guess that will be a disadvantage. The head was slightly decked though so that should raise my compression just a little. I guess I just had my hopes too high for this engine. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest bastaad525 Posted April 12, 2005 Share Posted April 12, 2005 well porting and polishing can make a LOT of difference, I've talked to Z guys who've claimed getting something like 30hp from good head work. I wouldn't say running EFI is a disadvantage, just a different set of challenges to work with vs. say tuning carbs. I dont think a stock intake manifold even with a 60mm TB would ever flow as well as say tripple weber 44mm's or whatever, so you might not get that insane top end scream those are known for. I think it's possible you might get close to 200rwhp... just possible. That's about the highest I've ever heard of being put out by a stock bore/stroke N/A L6. 230hp is squarely in stroker, turbo, or V8 territory, though I guess you could get there if you did the works on the stock block, in addition to port and polishing, also enlarging the valves, running a nasty cam, running tripple carbs, big mods like that. Trust me I was VERY dissapointed with my own setup after dumping over $3000 into it and getting 'only' 170hp to the wheels... that was a huge waste of money in my eyes. It was fun but it wasn't anywhere near as fast as it felt, was only good for a high 14 1/4 mile in my case... which to me is pretty slow by todays 'standards'. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
zeiss150 Posted April 12, 2005 Share Posted April 12, 2005 Bastaad, I have the 6 spoke wheels they should work the same as the Iron cross wheels. If you don't have a way to cut the dust plate just take it off, two screws and its off. All it does is keep your wheels cleaner a little longer. BTW a simple hack saw would cut the plate too. You need to replace the hard line because the caliper is bigger and the old one wont fit the way its bent. Just don't kink it when you bend it ( i used a broom handel for the bends). Other than thoes 2 things they just bolt right up. Good luck man. Let me know if you have any other questions. Rock on Z people! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest DoTheDrew888 Posted April 13, 2005 Share Posted April 13, 2005 Bastaad man you are killing me here!! Haha My car is a 280ZX 2+2 and not exactly what you would call light weight. If you thought your car was slow than I am screwed! Damn, and Ive dropped about $2300 into this engine already. Oh well, it will be a whole lot better than my previous dyno numbers atleast. I am too ashamed to even tell what they were (yes it was that bad). Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest hegan1956 Posted April 20, 2005 Share Posted April 20, 2005 What's the deal on 4X truck brakes? I have a 78Z that is a squealaholic I want to upgrade the breaks, but I'm hesitant to shell $600 or $700 for them. I was also wondering about rear disc setups for the earlier Zs? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest bastaad525 Posted April 20, 2005 Share Posted April 20, 2005 What's the deal on 4X truck brakes? I have a 78Z that is a squealaholic I want to upgrade the breaks, but I'm hesitant to shell $600 or $700 for them. I was also wondering about rear disc setups for the earlier Zs? According to Zeiss here you can do the Toyota 4x4 brake conversion for around $100.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
4everDATSUN Posted April 20, 2005 Share Posted April 20, 2005 i work at napa and my price for 4x4 loaded calipers is nowhere near $100. you guys cant forget the core charges on these calipers. some places wont except your small Z calipers as the core, but then again most people dont notice. but your cost on a loaded caliper minus the core is around $100 a side, plus new lines. but its worth every penny. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
zeiss150 Posted April 20, 2005 Share Posted April 20, 2005 The toyota break price is about $100 bucks for just the breaks. If you change out your lines and stuff it gets more expensive. I think I spent about $250 total after stainless breaklines, turned roters, new seals. I bought a set of used toyota calipers from a truck junk yard $50 for both. then I rebuilt them for $25 and new pads for another $25. So it was $100 for the breaks. but its still one of the easyest and cheepest mods you can do. and when I did my mod a few years ago the price that I got from NAPA for loaded 83 toyota 4x4 front calipers was $50 each + core. Maybe the price went up since I did it two years ago? But the junk yard price should still be the same. I just called the Auto Zone for a price $34.95 for each side (no break pads) + 35.00 core. So if you can get away with trading in your old Z cores its about $50 a side with pads. Come on NAPA don't let auto Zone beat you like that! Rock on Z people Matt- Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest hegan1956 Posted April 21, 2005 Share Posted April 21, 2005 I found the article about the 4X4 brakes and I have already located a pair in good shape. My Z is my carport on jackstands now having the front end rebuilt so this will just be another phase in my rebuild. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GaZed Posted August 16, 2006 Share Posted August 16, 2006 Regarding the 4 piston Toyota calipers [82 - 84] setup. I believe those are for solid rotors only. I installed vented rotors [4-lug] from an 83 ZX on my 77 280Z and used 86 -89 Toyota Forerunner four piston calipers. The rotors were cross drilled. Master brake cylinder off of an 82 or 83 ZX for a larger volume and a proportioning valve to accommodate the rear disks. Did that some 3 years ago. Yes, you have to have a spacer made, the hat on the rotor is too short. I use the Wagner ThermoQuiets, no squeaks, no dust. I drive 50 miles every day and the rotors look like polished silver, no ripples, no wear. Talk about stopping power. Unbelievable-worth every penny ! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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