Aftermarket Steering Rack and Crossmember questions

[Jolane]

While I was at the race shop yesterday I started looking at their cars more closely. These are late model modifieds mostly racing oval tracks (dirt and asphalt here). I was suprised to see how they did the suspension and steering (that is why I was there, buying QA1 rod ends for my LCA's). The lower A-arm looks like it is off a 280ZX, with a T/C rod running from the front instead of the back. Looking more at the steering though, I started thinking about trying to adapt one of the rack and pinions they use to my 240. They are using a Sweet Manufacturing box, but other companies make very similar models. They all seem to mount with a large base plate and three bolts (very simple). I can get a manual R&P to start, and if I desire power later, it is a simple upgrade of actuator, servo, and pump.

So, I would kind of like to know other's opinions on whether this seems like a good modification:

Build a new crossmember from scratch. Weld it to the frame rails (why does it need to be removable anyways?). I could then fashion the crossmember such that the engine mounting (which I would redo now) would be correct for the SBC I am using. The stock crossmember is curved to the front, I am thinking of either making a straight one, or curving it to the rear (whichever would work better). Since these R&P are shorter, I could lengthen the LCA to match the longer steering rods. This leaves the T/C rod. I figure I could either leave it where it is (making the lower triangle pivot around a skewed axis to the chassis) or move it and use a rod end for the mount.

I am thinking along the lines of mounting the T/C rod pivot on the front, up by the radiator support. I could add some reinforcement to the bottom of the rad support. The benefit would be that I can not cut out the original T/C rod mount giving me more clearance for headers.

The possible interferences are with the T/C rod and the sway bar, but I now that the 280ZX's made it fit. There is plenty of room up front for this otherwise. By using a shorter R&P, I can move the LCA and T/C pivots inboard some, also allowing for more tire clearance (wider tires) with the T/C rod. Everything would be adjustable now, and quite possibly, much cleaner. I am not sure though if I can make the car handle any better with these changes. If anything, I will reduce the camber change with suspension travel by lengthing the LCA. Is this bad?

I either need a good replacement rack or to rebuild the one I have if I stay with the stock crossmember. Does anyone know how hard it is to rebuild a stock rack? If I am building a new crossmember, I would prefer to find a R&P that is easier to mount than the stock one. Does anyone know if a Pinto or Mustang II rack would work with the stock LCA's? I can't find the length from pivot to pivot.

I realize this is probably rambling, but I appreciate any and all comments, suggestions, etc. This would be a major departure from the stock suspension. I don't think though that it would be very difficult or expensive. Probably just replace the complete frame rails from the firewall forward, fabricate the crossmember, be done.

Heck, why not just use a one piece wishbone lower control arm then, and do away with the T/C rod?

Thanks,

Joshua