How much rust is too much?

[Guest 73LT1Z]

This is good advice, the only problem is having to stay on the sellers what seems like 24/7 to just get some pics! The two cars of interest here in FL are both like 150-200 miles away & are $600-2500. I've called & emailed, and no pics. One car is only $600, but I don't know anyone that will pay that sight unseen for a car 200 miles away. I've had a lot better luck dealing w/ sellers halfway across the country.

 

I visited Craigslist in the SF Bay area a few weeks ago, and it seems they are overflowing with Z cars.

 

BTW, I could "fix" his car with a 5700cc injection of Chevy motor .

[hat1324]

im in indiana and its damn near impossible to find a Z. if i could get one out here cheaper I would... a damn body pannel and dash costs more then a parts car.

[fl327]

z's go very cheap in California. Matter of fact, if it has any rust on it whatsoever it can be REALLY hard to sell it, and they end up going for a pretty good price. One worth injecting a lot of money into can be found in the 2k and up range, usually running quite well. Im wondering, in other parts of America, what do the 89-93 240sx's go for????

Indiana?

Florida?

NC???

Oregon??

Anywhere else outside of Northern California?

 

 

In Northern California, the prices are getting so far out of hand that my buddy and I have discussed taking trips out of state to pick up 240sx's, almost the same way people will shop from way far away to find that rust free z. the drift scene is creating a lot of casualties, and the ones that go for sale often need substantial body and suspension repair work, carry a salvage title, or run faulty in general. Its gotten so bad out here that a grandmother has once posted a for sale ad saying that her 240sx would be great for a motor swap!!!!

[Jsquared]

yeah, it's getting annoying how the S13/S14 community is getting overrun with bandwagoners On one hand, suspension and other parts are coming down in price, but on the other, cost of getting a car/engine is going up, and all the highschoolers/ricers that get them end up crashing them

 

I've got a 74 260 that is pretty much solid that I can't seem to get rid of out here for 400 bucks because it has some rust pits in the battery area.

send me pics

[Guest 73LT1Z]

After checking the floor by the spare tire well today, I see it is also rusted through.

 

I've decided to part out the car and find a solid body to work with. If you know anyone that wants the whole thing, it is $1500 OBO. I'll sell anything off of it that is paid for.

[Guest 73LT1Z]

...I was garage sale-ing yesterday and came across a 77 280 Z the guy wanted $200.00 for the car that either had electrical or fuel issues.. Car idled great but nothing more. The fellow had hot plans for the Z but cannot fix it or knows any one who can.The car set 8 months before his purchase and ran great the 50 miles home and in a few days... quit running except for an idle...sound familiar? Rust was absolute minimal...

 

Since I've decided to part out my car, I sent you an email about that $200 280. Interested in some pics if possible & your professional opinion on the body.

 

Thanks.

[Guest 73LT1Z]

I am looking at one of three routes now:

1. Buy an already converted/operational car & swap out my motor & T56.

 

2. Buy a car with as solid a body as possible & a bad or no motor that has been correctly repaired and do the conversion.

 

3. Cut & weld the 240, then do the conversion.

 

Based on some variables, it looks like #1 is about $600 more than #2, which is $200 more than #3.

 

So, employing a logical thought process (sometimes difficult for me when cars are involved ) :

 

PRO:

1. No body or paint work to do. Relatively simple engine/tranny swap.

Car ready to go in a short period of time.

 

2. Save $600.

Can do a little at a time.

 

3. Save $200.

Can do a little at a time.

 

CON:

1. Big upfront expense.

I didn't do the whole thing myself.

 

2. Similar work to #1 for the motor swap with the addition of a JTR conversion.

Will take longer to get ready than #1.

 

3. A LOT of work.

Will take a lot longer to get ready.

 

Local factors (aka too many projects):

TA needs oil pan & pump (due to different pan) replaced. Not an easy job . Have to do this to continue dyno tuning.

Corvair has motor out, replacement ready to go in.

Family reminds me that not many of my vehicles are operational right now .

 

When I evaluate what has happened and apply what I've learned*, it only makes sense to go with #1.

 

*I built a Chevy 383 RX7 going route #2 and sold it for a lot less than I had in it. I realized afterwards that the guy that bought it had all the hard work done for him.

[Guest 73LT1Z]

... for one of my kids . If it is rejected, looks like it will have to be the next V8 swap candidate.

 

I just can't find a decent 280 anywhere around Florida, and even the decent ones out west for some reason the sellers don't seem interested in replying or their car does not have AC (found a beautiful blue one in CA w/ a blown motor this way).

 

I've decided on a 280 due to the AC issue with the 240-260 models.

[AK-Z]

For me, I think that when the rocker panels start to rust through is when the car is a lost cause. Replacing rocker panel properly on a unibody car is VERY difficult because you have to deal with the body flexing AFTER you remove then and then get them back to the way you had then. I know you're suppose to brace the car, but if I'm gonna do that I might as well weld in a roll cage and the it would be difficult to do repairs in certain areas. (never like doing the same twice)