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driveshaft length for manual swap???


Guest Jim226

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Guest Jim226

Hi everyone i just got an early model 260z....i bought the car for the manual transmission that i hopr to get into my late model 260z ASAP. Here is the problem though the 4 bolts that connect the driveshaft with the rear are rounded off. I was going to cut the drive shaft in half so i can drop the transmisson but i dunno if my automatic driveshaft will work with the manual swap. Does any1 know the length of ethier of them, and also what parts are involved in the swap.

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before you cut that drive shaft into, invest in a chisel and attempt to shear those "rounded off " bolts to remove them.. The S30 coupe driveshaft from center of u joint flange to u joint flange should be 22.24 inches and the 2 + 2 is: 34.06 inches... the sleeve yoke assembly (part that slides into transmission) is 5.93 inches from tip to center of u-joint flange. Unless one car is a 2+2 the drive shafts should interchange. With the right size sharp chisel or an air powered chisel (inexpensive from Harbor Freight)the bolts can be sheared fairly easily, which will save that driveshaft for a spare and possibly some good u joints later on as a full replacement rather than buying and changing u joints..

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Guest Slow Z

or go to Sears and get a set of bolt extractors, they have proven themselves at the shop i work at so far they have gotten everything we have thrown at them out with ease.

 

Drew

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just take a file, and file down corners so you can match a socket to the bolt. that's what i did with a rounded drain plug.

 

also, pick up a small monkey wrench. you'd be surprised how awesome that tool is for removing anything. remember, monkey (pipe) wrenches are designed to tighten and loosen smooth round pipes!

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Guest Jim226

Well my question is now will i beable to use the 4spd transmission from the early 260z in my latemodel 260z ??? and which driveshaft will i need to do the swap will i need a different rear? any help would be great what is the list of parts i will need fot this swap.

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Jim, I did not mean to confuse the issue... If you can salvage all the parts ... you most likely will not have to buy anything.... first get the tranny in..... I have uesd 2 xtra long metric bolts to guide amd align the tranny up to the engine block. The long threaded bolts when tightened also will pull the tranny in alignment towards the engine and make the installation much easier. Remember when the transmission shaft.(main drive gear) begins to insert into the engine these parts to be connected are splined and cannot be forced. which is also a need to have the rear tires off the ground so the transmission main drive gear shaft can be slightly spun by turning the (propellar) drive shaft by hand to align the splined parts of engine and transmission . The long guide bolts are removed when installing the regular bolts............... if the driveshaft does not fit remove the (rear end) third member companion flange and nut and replace with the other companion flange from the standard shift Z. The companion flange large nut is "stake " peened to hold it in place and is tourqued to at least a "big time" 159 foot pounds. Rather than swapping 3rd member companion flanges and strong arming the big flange nut.......swap out the 3 rd members. which is probably an easier alternative.. than companion flange swapping I have used a 3/4 inch ratchet with cheater bar and still had difficulty removing companion flange nut when the 3rd member was out of the car after carefully trimming the "stake" peened nut. Your automatic equipped car most likely has the smaller R 180 3rd member (rear end) while the standard tranny may have the stronger R 200 (and interchanges easily). The 3rd member (rear end) ratio should be 3.54 to one for both transmissions....... Surprisingly the L 20B 4 cylinder sedans and pickups with automatic transmissions had 4.10 to 1 non IRS 3rd members (rear ends).. I would not be surprised that some Z's with automatics may have 3.90 or 4.10 gear ratio rear ends in earlier models.. My 78 280 Z with auto has a 3.54... R 180.

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Guest Jim226

well thanks for all the help you lost me alittle with the 3rd member??? thing but the parts car i have has all the manual parts i need. but what it comes down to is i can use the manual transmission with the automatic rear end and the driveshaft i'm gonna wanna use is the manual one right ? i just wanna make sure where good on that.

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Jim keep your fingers crossed for luck and all will work out, you just have a couple 260 Z cars that have some differences. The rear end is the "pumpkin" ... the rear differential carrier .......engine connnected to the tranny connected to the drive shaft connected to the differential carrier ....aka: third member, pumpkin, rear end or differential carrier....... if you have an R200 differential carrier in your Z parts car , it would be wise to swap it into your driver Z

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Guest Jim226

i'm trying not to swap out the rear end....the car has been sitting for a long time and who knows if it is good. but has anyone here done a swap like this??? is the rear end of my late model an r180 and will an early z tranny work fine? how can i tell if my parts car has an r200.

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