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Update on my starter issue!


Guest Pegasus76

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Guest Pegasus76

Alright guys, I tried just about everything! I got a new starter and when I connected everything and turned the key all I hear is a "click" like the solenoid is trying to turn, I got my car home by popping the clutch and getting it started just today so I didn't think the battery was dry...Therefore, I decided to see if I could start my starter using cables directly to my battery and into my starter...No such luck...It's not turning or anything still, only a "click". Could my battery not be pumping out enough juice? Or is it a bigger problem?

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On my ZXT I had the exact same problem 2 days ago.

 

It ended up being the wire from the ignition switch to the starter that connects to it with a spade connector.

 

It split somewhere inside the harness and did not have continuity. I ran my own and it works perfectly. It was the thick yellow wire coming out of my ignition switch. It sends 12v when the key is placed on the start position.

 

Mario

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I would suggest putting the wire on a relay so the ignition doesn't have to handle high current. I have put my brakes, turn signals and starter on relays and love it. No more smoke signals when I turn. The V8 starter draws much more amperage than the stock wiring harness likes to give so I put it on a ford starter relay. With 12 feet of wire from the battery through the key to the solenoid and the heat of the engine there's enough voltage drop to cause problems. I'm looking into relays for the slow wiper issues too.

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Guest Pegasus76

Alright, so I took a spare positive battery cable that I had and hooked it up to the starter and what not...Still only a "click". I feel like pulling my hair out lol, could the ground be bad? I hooked up the negative battery to a bolt underneath the starter...It looks like it's connected to the bellhousing. Anymore suggestions? I also checked the ignition fusible link and it was working fine...I pulled out the ASCD relay (Not sure what that did but I was hoping it would connect me to the problem) and it still only "clicked"...Anymore suggestions before I try digging through the ignition wires

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What is the battery voltage when the starter clicks? If it drops more than 2 volts I think you would you need to find out where the losses are. Got a meter and test light handy? If the solenoid is causing the click you hear then the ign wiring probably isn't at fault. Once the solenoid clicks the internal solenoid contacts are supposed to connect battery plus to the starter motor. Is the wire from the solenoid to the starter (the big, short, braided one) correct and not on new insulating paint? A test light is a quick way to find these things IF the battery is good. I recommend start at the battery. Why was the starter initially replaced?

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Guest Pegasus76

Unfortunately I don't have any of those tools :o/ I initially switched out my starter because my car started fine one day, then when I drove it for a good 30 mins later, the car would not crank...Nor would the starter even click. This has happened before and I assumed itw as the starter and I got a new one...The new starter actually "clicks" but it's not turning :o(

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1. Charge your battery.........if car starts ............. and runs....remove positive cable from battery....if engine dies.. you have bad alternator..That is draining battery. 2. with charged battery and no start.. be careful.. turn key on and take car out of gear and arc a screw driver between the starter solenoid terminal (small wire) and the big hot wire to starter from battery. If starter turns ...your problem is in the ignition switch or wiring going to it .get a cheap electrical tester or probe (looks like small hand punch body with a small light on one end to indicate a hot live wire and other end a needle point (probe) connected to the punch body. A wire with an alligator tip on the end is connected to the punch body which will act as a ground . remove plastic pig tail from ignition switch.... you are going to find 4 or 5 wire terminals in the ignition pigtail.....connect or "hotwire" or "arc" the two terminals with the wires that will turn on your guages only (one will be hot and the other not hot but when connected your gauges will begin to operate) these two wire terminals are usually are at the ends of the pigtail and across from each other ....usually the biggest wire to the igntion pig tail is the hot wire from battery..... once you get the guages on with.....their wires connected with the tester.....find the starter solenoid wire and jump it with a piece of insulated wire (to keep fingers cool) to the connected guage circuit wires (tester connection)....the starter solenoid wire terminal is usually located at the opposite end on the opposite side from the hot wire terminal.......... this arcing of guage connection to starter solenoid should turn your starter and this wire connection should only be arced temporarily while starting and removed or discoonected after engine starts or to disengage the starter........Now if this does not remedy the problem or pinpoint the problem ...you have the rudimentary skills to hot wire another Z for parts. think slim jim for next lesson.

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Pegasus 76- Have you checked tha battery or tried to start the car with good jumpers and a known good battery? If the car push starts and runs then I would guess the alternator is working and maybe the battery isn't. I agree with Ol' Timer and recommend checking the battery. Turn the headlights on and try to start the car. If the lights go out then maybe the battery is dropping from 12.6 volts to less than 6. A voltmeter would tell you this quickly. I would caution anybody with computers in the cars (modules etc.) on pulling the battery cable when the engine is running due to a possible voltage spike as the alternator tries to charge a "missing" battery. Doing so with the headlights on will give the spike somewhere to go besides your module. I haven't had problems but I have heard stories.

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Guest Pegasus76

I don't believe it's the battery because I switched out batteries with a Van that we have, it has a fresh battery, and I still only get a click...I pulled the starter out again and did what "here comes trouble" suggested and put a screw driver between the S terminal and the B terminal and the starter spun...I'm guessing there's a continuity problem between the wire to the S terminal or a relay problem. By the way, does anyone know what relays could inhibit a car starting if the wires and starter and battery is good?

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Neutral safety, clutch interlock, seatbelt, there are many depending on the vehicle. If the solenoid truly clicks then you are getting power to the spade terminal of the starter. Use the fancy new meter and make sure you are getting about 12 V to the spade terminal. That's what causes the solenoid to click and engage the internal contacts that connect the battery cable to the starter windings. The solenoid click is performing two functions: iit is engaging the starter drive gear into the flwyheel teeth and connecting the internal contacts from battery cable to starter windings. All that happens at the end of the sonenoid where the cables are connected.

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