MSD 6AL hookup in my V8 240Z

[RedZ85]

ok...I have determined that my wireing harness is RETARDED! Is doesnt seem to follow ANY of the schematics in the books. I know that the small gauge red wire for the 6AL goes to the (+) side of the original coil with a (BLK/WHT) wire...however...I SEEM TO HAVE 2 WIRES THAT GO TO THE (+) COIL TERMINAL, BOTH OF WHICH ARE CONVIENTLY (BLK/WHT) and not electricly the same!! When i look under the pasanger side of the dash where the big 4-block wire connector is...there are 3 wires that are (BLK/WHT)! What gives here. All the schematics show only one wire going to the (+) side of the coil (240 and 260). Anyone else had this issue? Can i just tap off of one of the wires at the ignition switch? Is this red wire just a remote turn on lead?

[RedZ85]

ok, so it looks like no one here can answer my original post... So I have a different question. The wireing in the car that i have had been bastardized when it comes to the ignition system. I dont want to have anything to do with the old ignition system. Where can i tap the small gauge red wire on my MSD 6AL so that im taping at the source of wherei need to? I dont want to connect it to the original (+) terminal on the original coil. I will run new wire if need be (in fact...i would prefer to.) anyone have any ideas? I know someone out there has done this before.

[280Zone]

MSD 6AL wiring is as follows.

 

Heavy Black to Battery negative

Heavy Red to Battery Positive

 

Black to coil negative

Orange to coil positive

 

Red to switched 12 volts

 

Green and violet Plug to Distributor & nothing to the white wire

or

White wire to points or amplifier output nothing to the green violet plug.

[RedZ85]

Red to switched 12 volts

 

ok, this i understand. However, doesnt this wire need to be hot when in the "ON" position AND in the "START" position? Otherwise if the red wire isnt hot while in the "START" mode...the box will be "off" and i will get no spark when cranking the engine. When the switch is in the "START" position, doesnt it cut power to just about everything else so the starter and ignition can opperate without any other extra loads?

[wheelman]

You should have a green wire under your dash with a 20 amp fuse inline. That wire is for the original electric fuel pump, added to the 73 240Z. You should be able to connect the red "switched +12 volt" wire to it and have power in the ON and Start positions of the ignition switch. I use this wire to power the PCM for my LT1 so I know there is power in the ON and Start positions.

 

Wheelman

[RedZ85]

You should have a green wire under your dash with a 20 amp fuse inline. That wire is for the original electric fuel pump' date=' added to the 73 240Z.

Wheelman[/quote']

 

Ok, Awesome!. I do have a green wire in the harness that goes to the ignition switch. Is this the correct one?

[wheelman]

I think so but I'm not positive. The wire I was refering to will have a 2 gang plug with a wire loop attached that contains the inline 20 amp fuse. One side if the fuse will be green and the other is black, go figure. Remove the fuse and use a continuity tester to make sure the green wire at the ignition switch is the same wire. I've noticed that the wires in my harness change color sometimes in the middle of a run so I always continuity test things to ensure I have the circuit I'm looking for at both ends and that the wire is in good shape.

 

Good luck

Wheelman