RedZ85

Thanks guys, it was a HARD decision to come to and i'm not sure i have made it yet. The reserve is set to $15,000. This was supposed to be a price feeler auction where i wouldnt have to sell it if i didnt want too. i am very much open to offers. The suspension is stock, i never got around to the coil overs. It was going to be a project for this spring. (no pun intended)

As heartbreaking as it is...wish me luck! oh, and bid if your interested.. http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&ih=007&sspagename=STRK%3AMESE%3AIT&viewitem=&item=170048933873&rd=1,1

What do you think shes worth? What do you think i could do to increase the value? While i LOVE this car and have put more blood sweat and tears that i thouhgt possible into this project, its time to move to school and i just cant take her with me. Deppressing. I need a newer vehical (maybe a 350Z?) Anyways, with the practically new LS1 T-56, New LSD and halfshaft hardware, all the engine stuff its got...well here: http://www.magshooterz.com/V8240Z.htm What do you think i could reasonably get for her. She runs great and is very sound. Thanks, -Ryan

so i posted this once before to get some feedback on the layout of my fuel system...and it seems that the post got deleted. Not too sure why being that this a fuel system for a V8 engine and thought i would get more V8 Z members responces here. My new fuel system: http://www.magshooterz.com/FuelSystem.htm

I wanted a return system. I heard of issues with just using the bypass in the pump to maintain pressure...plus i like spending money apparently. I was thinking of running the pump alone without a regulator but decided to make my life more complicated and do a full return style system. I am very happy with it and it looks sharp!

Actually the vacuum port NEEDS to be sealed if not in use per the installation instructions. If it is not, the fuel pressure will bounce like crazy. I solved the problem. It seems to be the gauge itself. I replaced the fluid style gauge with a cheap old $13 Mr. Gasket dry gauge. I installed the dry gauge and started the car to set a refrence point. I set it to 7 PSI then turned the car off before it could start to warm up. I then inserted a plug in place of the gauge and drove around for about 30 min or so. Once i returned home, i shut off the fully hot engine (The same environment that caused my liquid gauge to read practcly 0) removed the plug and reinstalled the dry gauge and started the engine up again immediatly. Sure enough, i was still at my refrence point! I was never losing pressure at all, but rather the liquid filled gauge would go from 7 PSI to 0 PSI due to the head of the engine! I left the gauge installed and left the car running for a while and my pressure remained relitivly constant. So now i know...liquid filled gauges are completly false once heat is introduced. I will have a full write up on my fuel system asap.

Figures! I will try a remote gauge to see if that solves the problem. Can i just use a non liquid filled gauge in that location?? The 1/2 inch fuel lines in the tank mimic the original plumbing configuration with the return located at the top and the outlet syphin on the bottem. THANKS 331! I think ill get some header wrap and heat shielding for my fuel tubes as well...My engine compartment gets awfuly hot! and that cant be good

was taken down to a radiator shop where it was boiled out, rust treated and then sealed before i put it back in the car with the new fuel setup. Also i had new 1/2 lines for the outlet/return installed. If there was some debris in the tank, it wouldnt be able to clog 1/2 in line. If i have the engine off and the pump on, i get constant fuel pressure, so i believe that the engine heat is causing my problems. When i turn the pump off then on again, the noise goes away but my pressure is still low. Could it be the gauge giving a faulty reading due to the heat?

It runs exacty the same unfortunatly.

...AND I STILL HAVE FUEL PRESSURE PROBLEMS!!! Ok, i redid my entire fuel system and have all kinds of pictures for a write up im working on...however, it still doesnt work correctly. My fuel pressure goes from the set pressure of 7 PSI to about 2 PSI after about 15 min of driving. Could i be experiencing vapor lock? Here are some pics of the proximities of my 1/2 aluminum fuel line and the steal braided hose to the exhaust. The drivers side header and the steal braded fuel lines in the engine compartment. You can see the aluminum tubing with the AN fittings and the exhaust to the left. On the far right you can see the fuel pressure regulator. Its a Mallory return style regulator thats recomended for the Mallory COMP 110 pump which i am using. YES, the vacuum port is pluged. Here is my setup. Could i be experiencing vapor lock?? Do i need some sort of heat shielding?? My engine compartment does get really hot, but the problem persists even if i have the hood up. Also, i notice that me fuel pump make excessive noise (sounds like a Holley pump) after i drve for a little while (10 min or so). When i power off the pump momentaraly, then re-power the pump, the noise is gone. Thanks

So i flushed the tank with water and cut off the outlet and return nipples that stick out on the side. Then i used a 1/2 inch drill and drilled out the tubes. I took the tank down to a shop with the original syphin tube and they are going to bend a new one that matches the old small tube out of 1/2 stainless tubing. Then weld it in with the appropriate AN fittings for about $70. This will result in the stock tank with bigger 1/2 inch internal lines. Then im going to take the tank to a radiator shop and have them boil it out, seal and coat it for another $100. In the end i will have a fresh new tank with the flow capacity for a very hungry V8 for a little under $200. I will have pictures comming.

I stuck this in the Chevy forum being that its chevy related but it should be here as well. I dont want a fuel cell. I just want the stock tank, but modified. I know people have done this...I want to have the tank "renu'd" with bigger 1/2 or 3/8 feed and return lines inside to replace the smaller 5/16 and 3/16 feed and return lines. I also want the tank to be cleaned and sealed. I was quoted $500 for this service and i hear people talking about it being done for much cheaper. I live in the California bay area...is there anyplace around here that is recomended? I have the tank removed and can drive it or ship it where ever i need to. I really dont feel like spending $500 when i have heard of it done for $200-$300. Any ideas? Thanks

ok, i dont know if this should go here or in the fuel delivery fourm, but i thought that would get better response being that this is for a SBC Z car. I dont want a fuel cell. I just want the stock tank, but modified. I know people have done this...I want to have the tank "renu'd" with bigger 1/2 or 3/8 feed and return lines inside to replace the smaller 5/16 and 3/16 feed and return lines. I also want the tank to be cleaned and sealed. I was quoted $500 for this service and i hear people talking about it being done for much cheaper. I live in the California bay area...is there anyplace around here that is recomended? I have the tank removed and can drive it or ship it where ever i need to. I really dont feel like spending $500 when i have heard of it done for $200-$300. Any ideas? Thanks

If you have a static charge and touch the car which is grounded, you will discharge this static charge and most likely create a spark. There was an individual who exited his vehical without discharging his potential static charge and started pumping gas into his car. He removed the pump nozzle and when he went to put the gas cap back on, he grounded himseld and created a spark, which ignited the fresh fuel fumes coming out of the tank and BOOM...game over. I have heard from a few of my fire fighting buddys that this is something they learn about. Now, interesting story. If you see those signs saying dont use a cell phone or turn off electronic devices while fueling...lol...its because this senario happened and the guy happened to be using an electronic device. So everyone jumped to the conclusion that electronic devices cause gas to cumbust...they dont. RF radio waves dont do it either. You could have a cell phone in an environment perfect for cumbustion, call it...and nothing will ever happen. If you saw this on MythBusters, you understand. I cant help but laugh when i see those sighs created by ignorant people.

http://groups.msn.com/Datsun280zClub/bigphils78280z.msnw?action=ShowPhoto&PhotoID=118&pgmarket=en-us

People are talking about putting in bigger fuel lines...I can see the need if you have a monster under the hood. For us running a mostly mild Chevy 350, whats the point? i have a Mallory Comp 110 fuel pump that will be going to a return style regulator (also mallory) all using the STOCK 5/16" fuel line and 3/16" return line. The whole point of a return line is to constantly keep fuel flowing through the pump. The engine is using some fuel...why does your return line need to be the same size as the fuel line like people are saying? The stock setup from the factory didnt have same sizes. Also, the amount of fuel that pours out or the fuel line if its not connected to the carb once the pump is on is way more than my engine is going to use at WOT. Whats the advantage of going to a larger 3/8" line? Finally, if i were to go to a larger 3/8" line, whats the point being that the syphin tube inside the tank is only 5/16"? so unless that tube is removed and replaced with a 3/8" or larger syphin theres no change. Am i correct in thinking that the fuel flow from a tube 5/16" in the beginning to 3/8" at the end will be EQUAL to the flow of a tube thats 5/16" all the way? Input please!

I have an oil pressure switch and all that installed. Should i redo all the fuel lines and stick in 3/8 lines with a 3/8" return line?? i think the tube running inside the tank is only 5/16. Would there be any advantage in running a 3/8" line after a 5/16" tank feed? Also, should i go with steel braid fuel hose for everything? As for the regulator, i was looking at this one from summit: http://static.summitracing.com/global/images/prod/large/maa-4309.jpg Its a mallory MAA-4309 3-12 PSI return style regulator. Its got 1 inlet and 3 outlet for a return and dual carb inputs.

I got the Mallory Comp 110 as recomended to replace the not so impressive Holley Blue pump. MY issues with the blue pump were low fuel pressures after 30 min or so of use. THe mallory is much better in that its QUIET! wow! However, my fuel pressure is still a problem. The pump has an internal bypass that regulated the output pressure by just cyciling the fuel once the calibrated output pressure is reached. Here is my current trouble shooting setup. Fuel tank->Filter (NEW)->Comp 110 fuel pump->fuel line to the engine compartment->a pressure gauge and then blocked off. Thats it. I want to see what the fuel pump is outputing and how constant it is over time. Once i turn the pump on, i get around 8 psi and it holds there. If i leave and come back later (10-40 min) its at 2-3 psi...Whats the deal here? I thought there may be a vacuum or soemthing being created in the tank hindering the pumps pumping efficiency, but i can remove the gas cap which should relieve any vacuum and nothing changes! That means its the pump...BUT ITS BRAND NEW! maybe 1.5 gallons through it at most! Whats going on?? ANY IDEAS?

Holley Blue pump = GARBAGE! I set the fuel pressure to 6 psi out of my holley regulator on first start up at idle. It stays nice and constant...no problems. After about 30 min of driving...my pump sounds different, like its slowing down and i have about 3 PSI at idle...If i reset the regulator so i have 6 psi again and let it sit for the night, its at around 12 psi when i start it up again the next day...Looking for a new fuel pump currently. Im interested in this edelbrock pump. Its recomended for the Edelbrock AVS carb that i have currently installed. I want to keep the holley regulator installed because i want to keep the dual inlet and both carb run the dual inlet. Comments?: EDL-1791 Brand: Edelbrock Product Line: Edelbrock Electric Fuel Pumps Free Flow Rate: 120 gph Maximum Pressure (psi): 6 1/2 Inlet Size: 3/8 in. NPT Inlet Quantity: Single Inlet Attachment: Female threads Outlet Size: 3/8 in. NPT Outlet Quantity: Single $127.88 -OR- EDL-1792 Brand: Edelbrock Product Line: Edelbrock Electric Fuel Pumps Free Flow Rate: 160 gph Maximum Pressure (psi): 12 Inlet Size: 1/2 in. NPT Inlet Quantity: Single Inlet Attachment: Female threads Outlet Size: 1/2 in. NPT Outlet Quantity: Single $189.88

The Holley Blue fuel pump I have in my Z has maybe 250 miles of use on it and maybe 5 tank fulls of gas through it...As far as im conserned, it's still new. It gets constant battery voltage through a relay that is actuated when either: a) 7 PSI or more is in the crank case -or- I flip a switch that manualy actuates the relay I noticed that when i first start the car, it runs fantasticly. I can hear the fuel pump goin and going strong. After a while of driving...maybe 30-40 min...I cant hear the fuel pump. Almost like it isnt on anymore. after a while, i can hear it again...then it fades out. When i put my ear up to it, it sounds like its got power, but something's keeping it from moving. When driving, i get frequent hestation...like i have no gas going into the engine. If i let the car sit for a while (an hour or so) and turn the fuel pump back on, it powers up and runs strong again. I dont think its an electrical issue, although i will be checking that with a volt meter to make sure im getting constant voltage. But it sounds like after 30 min or so of use, the motor quits and has issues. Anyone have this kind of experience?? Im getting a fuel pressure gauge to put inline with one of my carbs inlet hoses to see if i get substantial fuel pressure drops. Could it be the regulator that i have inline? Ill be irritated if i have to change the fuel pump after such little use.

IM RETARDED! Thanks to all that helped my with my engine issues...You were right! With the problems that i was having, the solution i was getting from many people was incorrect fireing order. I dismissed that posibility because i was sure that i did it right the first time...I didnt. After rechecking and correcting the problem, my Z runs...well...PERFECTLY! I cannot believe my own ignorance. It just goes to show you that its way to easy to get over confident and cocky. Thanks again to everyone that pitched an idea...ESPECIALLY THOSE OF YOU WHO QUESTIONED MY FIREING ORDER! The difference in engine preformance is night and day different.WOW. I guess i had a V6 V8 engine.LOL

Its a pretty mild engine. 64 cc heads, Comp 256 grind cam, 10:1 compression, Edlbrock AVS 650 carb...

Im using an Edelbrock AVS carb. 650CFM. the engine idles well however, under load it seems to backfire out of the carb...which is consistant with a lean situation. I also noticed that compared to the holley (670 CFM) its lacking power. Is this just because the edelbrock isnt satisfying the engines fuel needs? What fuel pressure should i have goin into the carb? Engine specs: Chevy 355 10:1 compression 6000 RPM limit

When i assembled the engine, i did the tighten until the push rod cant spin then tighten another half turn deal. I need to adjust them individually with some old valve covers or something. It just started doing it. Anyone got any ideas on an easy and clean way to do this?

Its pretty new. I have had it about 2 months now. Still needs some break in...but I like it