NOOB seeking info!

[ragefear]

Hey guys, I am a definate NOOB when it comes to datsuns. I have had mine for the past 3 years with a dream to put in a small block 350. Every once in a while I will go into my garage and look at the car, covered in dust and filled with junk and imagine it. Anyway... my buddy just got a 05 vette with the LS2. Now I saw that there was a post with a guy who just got an LS2 from a GTO and there are some obvious problems. I have the JTR book and drool over it all day long. Now, I have a ton of questions but I am going to start with the basics.

 

1. whats the deal with a computer system? Is it just a bunch of wiring to a stock ECU?

 

2. How hard is it to convert it to a stick from auto?

 

3. Will the tranny from a GTO or Vette fit in the datsun?

 

4. How about that rear, is it goin to hold the power well?

 

5. Can the chassis hold the power? (My frame has NO rust)

 

6. Is it the same mounts that can be purchased from JTR?

 

7. What kinds of clearance issues am I goin to run into with the motor?

 

thats really all that I can think of for now, when I think of more, I will ask. And if anyone can think of anything else I should know, be sure to throw them in. thanks

 

Scott

[awd92gsx]

I'll do my best to answer what I know...

 

1) No idea on the first part...you'll have to use the LS2 wiring harness and ECU. The Harness will have to be spliced into your Z.

 

2) That depends on your mechanical ability. But...it's easier to convert to an auto than from an auto to a manual most of the time (since you don't have to really worry about the pedals)

 

3) The Vette has a rear transverse mounted transmission...it won't fit. The GTO *should*

 

4) That depends...which rear end do you have? They seem to be safe up to about 400-450 or so (depending on how you launch and how sticky your tires are)

 

5) More than likely it will be ok if it's a 280Z. You can add a cage for more strength. Strut bars will help, too. Some people weld in frame stiffeners for safety.

 

6) No! I believe John's cars has a complete LS1 kit...I *think* this will work.

 

7) I have no idea.

[Guest dancaprar]

I dont want to add more confusion BUTT it has always seemed to me that if you have the engine harness AND ECU as a unit. Then you should treat the

engine bay as if it were the engine bay of the car that all those parts came out of. Then you wont have to worry so much about spicing any sort of wiring. Butt then again i have never done an engine swap. But it seems to make sense in my little lobotomized mind.

As far as the chassis goes even if its as wesk as the 240z chassis as set of diamond or triangular subfame connectors along with a set of strut bars will work beautifully(but then again that was the setup on my trans am before i totalled it a few weeks ago).

[Griz]

Good call on treating the engine and ECU or PCM as a unit. They are pretty self-contained. Don't, however, forget all the other systems in the car. These interfaces will have to be "created" from one manufacturer to the other:

 

Fuel - Z tank (or donor LS2 vehicle tank) to new lines (supply and return) to new filter to fuel rail attach.

Clutch - Z pedal and link (and travel) to the master cylinder to the transmission.

Brakes - engine vacuum to the Z master (pretty basic on this one).

A/C - if you put it in, GM compressor to the Z evaporator.

Cooling - Z radiator and hose location to GM water pump.

Heating - GM water outlet/inlet to Z (easy again, just watch the hose diameter.)

Electrical - GM alternator to Z wiring (no voltage regulator/coil/distributor stuff, just hookups, mostly).

Steering - If you have PS, then GM pump to Z steering.

 

Those interfaces get to be the time (and $) consuming details of getting the swap completed.

[ragefear]

thanks guys, I am definately going to need all the info that I can get for this. Of course, I gotta get the car out here to CT and get a garage too. So its gonna be a while, but definately needing info before I start. thanks

 

Scott

[GabeRoc]

1) the LSx harness is almost standalone as it would come from a donor vehicle. check out http://www.ls1tech for details. treating the engine as a standalone system and splicing control and gauge wires seems to be the easiest way to go. if you use an LSx you will need to get the computer reprogramed.

 

2) in the early z's the bracket is the same for auto and stick, to convert you just need to get a clutch pedal and it *should* bolt right in. other than that an aftermarket clutch of the proper bore will complete the switch.

 

3) the T5 and the T56 both fit right in. from what i have seen the front mounted sump on the GTO will not fit into the z's engine bay without extensive modification.

 

4 &5) i have no experince with this. do a search. there is *lots* on information on this topic.

 

6) the LSx does not mount the same as the 1st gen SBC. i fabed my own mounts from steel stock and mounted another crossmember behind the stock one to mount the engine. it was not too difficult and i'm very pleased with them.

 

7) in my installation i did not relocate the A/C compressor nor the alternator. because of this my engine is mounted a couple of inches higher than the john's cars kit and i had to remove the stock mounting towers, but i don't have the oil pan ground clearance issue.

i have arround 1 inch of clearance on each side of the engine at the A/C compressor and at the alternator. other than that, there are no real sapce issues that i ran into.

 

hope this helps. and you'll hear it 100 (if not a 1000) times, SEARCH! there is nary a question that has not been covered at least twice.

 

--gabe