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awd92gsx

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About awd92gsx

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  1. PM Sent: Am willing to try anything at this point! Ty!
  2. Pop: It's a mechanical temp guage, but, also the fan stop cycling as well. It will run all day long. It will get up to 225 on it's own (I shut it off at that point, so, it will probably get higher) Cozy: In P/N the engine runs around 192 or so with the fan cycling on at about 210. In D it overcomes the 210 mark and will keep rising until I shut it off with the fan never cycling off. PP: As of yet, the car is not equipped with A/C Note: the fan is wired with the High side being the only side that is used. Before rewiring I did try the low side, but it actually made th
  3. I installed the relay on the drivers side inner fender well, a little behind the headlight. The ground from the fan goes to the 75a relay (via 8g wire) and then to chassis ground; all in all, maybe a foot and a half of 8g wire for the ground. Chassis ground from the battery consists of a single 4g wire from the battery to the chassis, though I do also have a 4g wire on the other side of the engine from the engine block to chassis ground. I'm running a carbed setup. It is possible for me to adjust the idle high enough, but, for me to get the fan to run high enough would requi
  4. Well, I'm about at my wits end with this car and I'm pretty much out of ideas at this point. Awhile back I put in a taurus fan set (new aftermarket unit) with the JTR radiator. It really moves the air and seems to keep the car cool, with one exception... Whenever I put it in drive and the rpm's drop a little (idles about 750 rpm in drive now) the fan slows way down and the car starts to heat up. Give it a little more gas to get up to around 825+ rpm, the fan speeds back up, and the car cools back down as a result. If I leave it in park/neutral it runs fine (gave it about a 900-1
  5. I should mention that with the stock heads I didn't have any clearance problems, even with my $60 new Ebay headers...I only started having problems AFTER I installed my Dart Pro1 aluminum heads.
  6. I just ordered a new set of headers today because I'm having the exact same problem. I've tried header wrap, MSD Boot Armor, different wires, you name it... These should fix it. http://sandersonheaders.com/pagesbypartnum/cc2.htm
  7. The length isn't the problem...the problem is that the Dart aluminum heads I have place the plug right in a spot that the boot physically touches the headers I have...I've seen those shorter ACCEL plugs, but, I'm not 100% they're going to be short enough to actually prevent the plug boot from touching the header. I think I'll just have to finding the smallest diameter plug boot I can find and go with them in addition to wrapping the plug boot with a heat protector...
  8. Well, I found at least one problem... One of the replacement wires I used is arcing against the header again. I guess I'm just going to have to spend more money on some better wires and definitely get some spark plug boot protectors. The problem is that the boots are literally touching the headers, so, any arcing that occurs is very very difficult to detect, simply because you can't see a spark jump...turning off the light and moving the wires around helped me find it, though. Even though the boot doesn't appear burnt, there is still current jumping "through" it. Now...whet
  9. 74_5.0L - I have an HEI, new cap, new rotor, checked to make sure the mechanical advance was working (or at least not binding). When revved it seems to advance and hold pretty steadily. 80LT1 - I'm actually seriously considering that. The key, though, is finding a shop that will look at it for me that has somebody that knows what they're doing when it comes to performance engines. I even asked a couple of the Chevy dealerships and there just aren't that many guys around that are willing to work on a high performance V8. Now...there IS a place here called Chuck's Speed Shop that
  10. Michael, I remember that happening on my old camshaft...but, I've not heard any lash noise since installing the new camshaft. I'll try to go out in the garage and watch for the valves going up and down tonight... Strotter, I thought about that, too, when I put my cam in and checked to see if both lifters were all the way down when it indicated TDC on my timing marks...they appeared to be down.. the puzzling thing is that I can advance the timing and get rid of 90% of my issues...Now, I remember when my cam lobes had worn I couldn't get it to run right no matter where
  11. Well, the reason I changed the cam is because I had a couple of lobes go flat on me, but, when that happened, I could definitely tell I had a miss, even in neutral... Would a flat cam lobe cause issues only during a load, though? If it is a flat lobe again, I'm gonna have a V8Z with lots of goodies for sale...cheap.
  12. OK... The firing order is correct. It runs perfectly fine while not under a load (IE...in neutral) unless you really stomp on the throttle, then it might hiccup a tad bit, but, otherwise do ok. The problem is when it's put under a load. Now, one thing I did forget to mention is that under normal timing conditions (anything around 12) my #3 & #5 cylnder header tubes would actually glow...advance the timing to around 20 and they'd stop glowing. Hmm...wonder if my valves might be a little tight on those cylinders? I've been told I might have to run more advance, but, exac
  13. OK....since installing my cylinder heads/intake/carb/cam a couple of months ago, I can't even get the car to run correctly under a load. In neutral it runs fine, no problems whatsoever...it even idles ok in drive/reverse...I can drive it...but, as soon as I put a load on it I get inversion through the carb and sometimes flames shoot out of the carb as well. After the inversion it will die, or at least try to die on me. Here's the list of parts: 350 bored .40 over stock compression 1.6:1 roller rockers 262/272 Summit Racing camshaft (part # SUM-1102) 600cfm holley carb (new)
  14. I don't really have a goal. There's almost always something else that can be done or added. If I tried to build my car up with all of the parts I wanted and not drive it until it was "done" (whatever that means) I'd still be saving up and have the L6 in it...which means I'd probably have never driven a V8Z...and certainly never have owned one.
  15. Bob, Are you still trying to run the starter off of the factory wires? Why don't you just go down and buy a positive battery cable with a starter lead coming off of it? I think these are somewhere in the neighborhood of $8 and are available from most major auto parts stores (Autozone, Checker, etc...) That way, you get your current directly from the battery without having pass Go and collect the $200 AND you eliminate one part of the equation. It also doesn't hurt to run a secondary ground. While you're down at Autozone buying your new positive cable get a negative groun
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