Confused Posted August 26, 2005 Share Posted August 26, 2005 Do you think I would be able to hit at or near 500whp with these mods (Still more to go, just waiting on fundage to start the build): Walbro 255 Fuel Pump- $120.00 Full-Race SR20DET Prostock Turbo Manifold- $899.00 Greddy SR20DET Intake Manifold- $595.00 Garrett GT3037 Turbocharger (.63 A/R)- $1,149.00 Tial 44mm Wastegate- $325.95 Tomei Rocker Arm Stopper- $72.84 Tomei 555cc Injectors- $491.62 Toda Racing Billet Camshaft (10.5 Lift @ 264 Intake / 10.5 Lift @ 264 Exhaust)- $560.00 Toda Racing Valve Springs- $240.00 Toda Racing Camshaft Pulleys- $300.00 Toda Lightweight Flywheel- $450.00 Crower Titanium Valve Retainers- $176.04 As for the Exhaust cam, I dont know if I was it to be 10.5 Lift @ 272 Duration. I want it to be streetable. Keep in mind, this is just the engine. Of course fuel is important and will be addressed later. If you have any recommendations, please feel free to advise. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest ON3GO Posted August 26, 2005 Share Posted August 26, 2005 i would go larger on the injectors. also i wouldnt use that pump for that high level of power... maybe a aeromotive a-1000. i would also upgrade the pistons and rods and do ARP hardware at those levels. mike Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SR240Z Posted August 26, 2005 Share Posted August 26, 2005 for spool up, you might be better off getting the garret gt30r turbo with .86 a/r. full-race manifold will hit steering shaft as ProjectRB240SX stated he said to try a peak boost manifold. you will need at least 740cc injectors to be efficient in duty cycle. new oem water and oil pumps are defnitely recommended as the engine has probably been sitting for a while. tear it all apart and get new pistons, rods, arp rod bolts, arp main cap bolts, arp head bolts, all new main and rod bearings as well. Better safe than sorry. aeromotive a-1000 would easily handle the power you want to put out. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Confused Posted August 26, 2005 Author Share Posted August 26, 2005 Alright, so swap the Fuel Pump (Aeromotive a-1000) and Injectors (Tomei 740cc will suffice?). As far as the manifold, does Peak Boost have a site? And as for the Turbo, what kind of difference would there be if I switched to the GT30R? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest PROJECTRB240SX Posted August 26, 2005 Share Posted August 26, 2005 Well If He Is Going To Use A Prostock (turbo In Stock Location) Manifold It Will Fit, But He May Have To Rework The External Wastegate Location If He Opts For It. Peakboost Would Only Be For A Topmount Turbo System. The 3037 Is Not A T28 Footprint Though Unless You Are Going To Custom Build One. The Walboro Has Enough Flow But Will Flutter And Pulse When You Demand Full Flow From It Making It A Dangerous Pump To Use.... The Aeromotive Would Be A Better Option For A Similar Price. The 555cc Injectors Will Top Out A 380whp If You Are Lucky.... 740cc Injectors Are Good For About 530whp At Full Duty, But Remember To Keep Your Injectors Happy You Want A Duty Cycle Between 70-90%, 80% Being Your Ideal Target.... So At 90% You Only Have The Ability Of 477whp. 850cc Injectors Would Be A Much Better Option In My Opinion. Your Cam Selection Would Yeild A Good Midrange.... You May Want To Think About Split Duration Cams With High Lift If You Don't Have Emissions. Something Like Hks 264 Step 2 (12.2 Lift) Int / Hks 272 Step 2 Exh. This Will Provide Enough Time To Get A Bit Of Pressurized Air Into The Cylinder But It Will Also Increase Your Exhaust To Intake Flow Rate. A Metal Headgasket, Arp Studs, Forged Pistons, And Metal Exh Gasket Will All Be Needed/recommended. The Stock Headgaskets Tend To Blow Out Above 300whp (its Not Worth Taking A Chance), The Stock Paper Exhaust Gaskets Just Suck At Double The Stock Boost And Tend To Tear Apart And Leak, Stock Torque To Yeild Bolts Tend To Pull Out At High Cylinder Pressures And If You Want It To Last I Would Change To Studs Or Wave-loc Bolts, Although Its Been Proven The Stock Block Can Hold 670whp How Long That Lasts Has Never Been A Popular Topic.... Imho I Would At Least Upgrade To Forged Pistons. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Confused Posted August 26, 2005 Author Share Posted August 26, 2005 I do plan to swap the studs, headgasket, and anything else that will not hold above 300whp. I dont really want a Top Mount design so I guess PeakBoost is out of the question. I will probably end up talking to a guy I know, to see about modifying the Full-Race Manifold. As far as the turbo is concerned, I do see what you meant and I cant realize why I didnt see it earlier. I guess I was to excited about the build. It saddens me to say that I really cant find any T25/T28 Flange style, Turbos that "put out", so I might just have to change some things. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest PROJECTRB240SX Posted August 26, 2005 Share Posted August 26, 2005 T2 FLANGED 500HP TURBO: http://www.atpturbo.com/Merchant2/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Product_Code=GRT-TBO-033&Category_Code=GRT Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Confused Posted August 26, 2005 Author Share Posted August 26, 2005 Thank you. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest PROJECTRB240SX Posted August 26, 2005 Share Posted August 26, 2005 No Problem.... Imho If You Are Going That Big With A T28 You Are Killing The Purpose Of The Small Turbo. I Would Step Up To A Top-mount Setup With A Precision Sc50 .63 Or .82 A/r Or A Sc34 .82. It Will Spool Just As Fast As The Huge T28 Setup, But Its Cheaper And Will Allow For Greater Expandability When/if You Want More Power. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Confused Posted August 26, 2005 Author Share Posted August 26, 2005 Good Idea. Is the Top Mount a T3 Flange, because if so, then I will just switch to a 60-1. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest PROJECTRB240SX Posted August 26, 2005 Share Posted August 26, 2005 Yes, The Full-race, Peak Boost, Ssautochrome Manifolds Are All T3 Foot Print Top-mount Setups. Just To Let You Know The Differences (besides Craftmanship) Between The Three.... The Full-race Is A Long/equal Length Runner Design, The Peak Boost Is A Medium/equal Length Runner Design, Finally The Ssautochrome Is A Short/equal Length Design. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SR240Z Posted August 26, 2005 Share Posted August 26, 2005 i havent heard anything good or bad yet from the ssautochrome top mount manifolds, do you have any input chris Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest PROJECTRB240SX Posted August 26, 2005 Share Posted August 26, 2005 MY BUDDY TODD WHO RUNS FUELED PERFORMANCE HERE IN TEMPE USES THEM ALOT AND HASEN'T EVER SEEN ONE OF THOSE "COMMON PROBLEMS" LISTED ALL OVER THE INTERNET. HE SAID AT FIRST HE WAS CONCERND WITH CRACKING, BUT HE SAID THE WELDS LOOK JUST AS GOOD AS ANYTHING HE COULD DO; THEN HE WAS CONCERNED WITH HEAT WARP BUT HE HAS INSTALLED THEM ON DRIFTERS CARS HERE THAT HAVE DONE MANY COMPETITIONS WITH THEM WITH NO FAILURES. SO I REALLY DON'T THINK ITS AS BAD AS PEOPLE SAY THEY ARE BUT THEY DEFINATELY DO NOT COMPARE TO THE PEAKBOOST (http://WWW.PHOENIXTURBO.COM) OR FULL-RACE (http://WWW.FULL-RACE.COM) MANIFOLDS IN ANY RESPECTS..... THATS LIKE COMPARING A FORD FOCUS TO A FERRARI ENZO. ON THE CHEAP I WOULD GO SS AUTO, IF I WAS GOING FULL OUT TRYING TO EXTRACT EVERY LAST HP AVAILABLE TO ME IT WOULD BE PEAK OR FULL-RACE (BOTH COMPARIBLE IN PRICE). Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Confused Posted August 26, 2005 Author Share Posted August 26, 2005 Hmm... Im most likely going to go with the Full-Race Pro Stock (RWD) Bottom Mount Manifold. If there is modification needed, then I shall talk to the guy I mentioned earlier. The reason, is pretty much as you stated. Im trying to extract every single bit of HP possible. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest ON3GO Posted August 27, 2005 Share Posted August 27, 2005 can i ask why bottom mount style manifold? mike Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest 73Turbo240z Posted August 27, 2005 Share Posted August 27, 2005 Hmm... Im most likely going to go with the Full-Race Pro Stock (RWD) Bottom Mount Manifold. If there is modification needed, then I shall talk to the guy I mentioned earlier. The reason, is pretty much as you stated. Im trying to extract every single bit of HP possible. axio entertainment, houstonian... who are you on H-I.com? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Confused Posted August 27, 2005 Author Share Posted August 27, 2005 can i ask why bottom mount style manifold? mike Why not? I was SpdRcr on H-I, though I dont post much on there anymore. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Superz Posted August 27, 2005 Share Posted August 27, 2005 for spool up' date=' you might be better off getting the garret gt30r turbo with .86 a/r. full-race manifold will hit steering shaft as ProjectRB240SX stated he said to try a peak boost manifold. you will need at least 740cc injectors to be efficient in duty cycle. new oem water and oil pumps are defnitely recommended as the engine has probably been sitting for a while. tear it all apart and get new pistons, rods, arp rod bolts, arp main cap bolts, arp head bolts, all new main and rod bearings as well. Better safe than sorry. aeromotive a-1000 would easily handle the power you want to put out.[/quote I agree there, except that the Walbro 255 will definetely flow enough fuel for up to ']550whp, it will do it with ease. The GT30r is a great turbo for mid to high rpm range, and a .68a/r will spool faster than a .86a/r (turbine side). I have an Evo, which is also a 2.0 4 cyl, and I run a GT35R with great success on the street. It dynoed at 494whp on pump gas with alcohol injection http://forums.evolutionm.net/showthread.php?t=137026&highlight=superz . Matting a gt30r turbo to a sr20det sounds like a very well balanced high 400's whp car. A Gt3071 is the best bet. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sab12373 Posted August 27, 2005 Share Posted August 27, 2005 I friend has your setup in a 2003 Spec-V Sentra. He has 720 injectors and a Jim Wolff ecu flash. He dyno'd at 434whp @20psi on 93 octane. If he had an AEMstand alone the numbers would be closer to 450-460 @ 20psi. I attached the dyno sheet for you. http://forums.hybridz.org/vbgarage.php?do=popup&image=http://forums.hybridz.org/vbgarage.php?do=getimage&id=198 Hope this helps you out. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Confused Posted August 27, 2005 Author Share Posted August 27, 2005 Indeed it does, help me out. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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