zbuild Posted September 13, 2005 Share Posted September 13, 2005 Just thought Id throw in my 2 bobs worth. . mine is an L28 turbo'd, intercooled running a motec etc. . . a cheaper alternative to a throttle body might be the XF Falcon (Oz) 65mm throttle body, fairly easy to get and cheapish . . . a good man to talk to for a clutch is Jim Berry at Race Clutch in Brisbane, he set up my clutch. . .(Ferrari pressure plate and skyline clutch) I have never felt it slip and have put out 270Kw to the rear on the dyno (361 rwhp). Reliability wise, I run 15psi for 230Kw (308 rwhp) and have had mine together for 4 years now and a lot of the time that its on the road its seeing 15psi I use series 5 normally aspirated Mazda RX7 injectors in mine and the most I have seen has been 85% duty cycle, and that was when we went to 22psi (mistakenly) on the dyno. One thing Ive heard about the LD28 is that you need to have them balanced well and run a good harmonic balancer on them (Stewart Wilkins in Sydney can supply good harmonic balancers) but I guess any serious engine should have both of these things anyway Hope something above is of use Cheers - Zbuild Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
zbuild Posted September 13, 2005 Share Posted September 13, 2005 PS Dennis, talk to Stewart Wilkins about gear boxes too, I know he can fit the likes of skyline boxes behind the L Series engines. I run a Sylvia Turbo box behind mine. . they have wider gears and mine has taken a fair caning without too much complaint cheers again Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lurch2461 Posted September 13, 2005 Author Share Posted September 13, 2005 Just thought Id throw in my 2 bobs worth. . mine is an L28 turbo'd' date=' intercooled running a motec etc. . . a cheaper alternative to a throttle body might be the XF Falcon (Oz) 65mm throttle body, fairly easy to get and cheapish . . . a good man to talk to for a clutch is Jim Berry at Race Clutch in Brisbane, he set up my clutch. . .(Ferrari pressure plate and skyline clutch) I have never felt it slip and have put out 270Kw to the rear on the dyno (361 rwhp). Reliability wise, I run 15psi for 230Kw (308 rwhp) and have had mine together for 4 years now and a lot of the time that its on the road its seeing 15psi I use series 5 normally aspirated Mazda RX7 injectors in mine and the most I have seen has been 85% duty cycle, and that was when we went to 22psi (mistakenly) on the dyno. One thing Ive heard about the LD28 is that you need to have them balanced well and run a good harmonic balancer on them (Stewart Wilkins in Sydney can supply good harmonic balancers) but I guess any serious engine should have both of these things anyway Hope something above is of use Cheers - Zbuild[/quote'] Hi Zbuild, I already have a 65mm RB25DE throttle body, and a 60mm KA24E throttle body, so I figure I'm covered there. I spoke to Jim Berry a couple of years ago and he put me on to a guy at Penrith and he built me my original RB clutch (VL Turbo pressure plate with 1300kg diaphram and sprung centre 6 puck plate) and used a VL slave cylinder as they are 22mm as opposed to 16mm stock Nissan. I have 460cc RX7 injectors and they will probably be good enough to 14psi and give me the 300 odd rwhp I seek. Stewart Wilkins is the man and he built my diff, R200 4.11:1 Cusco centre LSD, he is also supplying me with adjustable caster bar/tension rods. I already have adjustable camber tops, so my front suspension is fully adjustable. We just today discussed the RB20DET box conversion you suggested and thanks heaps, as I was going to sell both the box & Nismo short shifter. He changes over the entire front housing, L series front onto RB rear. I'm going to see Stewart tomorrow so I will discuss the harmonic balancer with him then. As I own an NEW RB30 balancer, just maybe it will fit and save me a dollar or two. As for balance, the internals are going to be race balanced, that means EXACT, spot on, "NOT" near enough as most street cars are done. Rods I will linish myself (smooth off the casting marks), as I have a reasonably good belt sander/polisher on my bench grinder & a Dremel, then they will be shot peened and cryogenic treated after balancing, the crank probably nitrided, as it's been ground 0.010 under size (petrol) to increase the fillet size and therefore the strength. Hopefully I will have all the bases covered, as I want it right the first time, not the 2nd, or 3rd etc etc. Again, thanks for the tips and I will post the finished results. Cheers, Dennis Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
zbuild Posted September 13, 2005 Share Posted September 13, 2005 Gidday again Dennis, what sort of money did it cost to have your diff sorted? mine is seriously lashy and I think my 'limited' slip isn't as limited as it used to be Cheers simon Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lurch2461 Posted September 13, 2005 Author Share Posted September 13, 2005 Gidday again Dennis' date='what sort of money did it cost to have your diff sorted? mine is seriously lashy and I think my 'limited' slip isn't as limited as it used to be Cheers simon[/quote'] Simon, Stewart charged me $480.00 at the time, and he upped the pre load to about 80lb, so it now works as it was designed. The problem with these LSD's is, nissan used them as a sales gimmick, not as a performance option and they were more a single spinner out of the factory. I have a stock genuine nissan 3.9:1 spare that I will get him to work his magic with soon. If I can do anything to help, let me know. You can contact me on ghostrider@idx.com.au or PM me and I can give some phone numbers. Cheers, Dennis Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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