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Guess I'm gonna give it a try, rebuilding a 700r4


Guest tony78_280z

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Guest tony78_280z

Thinking about rebuilding my 700r4. It'll be my first tranny rebuild. It is an 89 700r4, With a Larger capacity Pan, B&M Shift Improver kit.

 

I can't solve my problem that I described here, so It looks like I'm gonna have to go in and root around in there and try to find my problem. I'm sure the tranny could use a refresher in seals and disks and stuff anyway.

 

Any advice for this project?

 

Any "while I'm at it" suggestions?

 

Thanks

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Ditch the B&M improver kit.

 

You can get parts from www.bulkpart.com

You will need off the top of my head:

Super Master Rebuild kit with Borg Warner frictions.

You want the 4L60E band (should be included).

That kit should have all the soft parts and a Vette servo.

You also want a TransGo Reprogramming kit, Transgo pump rings, a new 10 vane pump kit, a new TCC solenoid, a "Beast" sun shell, an ATSG rebuild manual, and possibly a thrust washer kit, bushing kit.

.500 TV boost valve and the .283 reverse boost valve...

 

Be prepared to make s couple of orders once you get started.

If it's your first rebuild I would buy an extra "overhaul kit" that has all the gaskets, seals, that way when you cut a seal, you aren't stuck.

You will also need a low/reverse clutch spring compressor (look on ebay), the lip seal installers are nice (almost required), the input shaft teflon ring installer and sizer is also good to have to do the job right.

Also a set of snap ring pliers.

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If you've never done a trans rebuild you're in for a real learning experience. I would suggest leaning on a friend that has some experience. The 4L60 is not the easiest trans to do. There are several special tools required and a press is real handy. Absolute patience and attention to every detail is of the utmost. If you can find a transmission parts retailer in your area you won't have to buy two complete kits as suggested by the previous poster. Individual parts can be purchased if you do destroy something. Mainly lip seals because they are very soft and it doesn't take much to destroy them. As suggested a rebuild manual is very important. READ, READ,READ, and READ some more. Transmissions are a no nonsense devise. If it isn't done exactly right it won't work. If it is done right and it works then the satisfaction is wonderful. Good luck. If I can be of any help you can email me at Skipzcar@aol.com.

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The overhaul kit is $23.

 

Most local parts places will rape you on prices for the little stuff that adds up, so beware.

 

I've been there done that. Sometimes you will find a friendly local place though...

 

I occasionally build racing automatics when I'm not in far away places.

 

Good luck.

 

The 700 is not one I would recommend you start with, but the more difficult rebuild processes will be the pump and the input drum. The rear section is not too difficult. Almost exactly like a TH350, which is one of the easier trans to do.

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I've been there done that... I occasionally build racing automatics when I'm not in far away places.

 

 

That, fellows, is a little modest.

Jake is one of the stalwarts on the tranny forum at turbobuick.com: Definitely no newby, so don't let his post count fool you.

 

Welcome, Jake... Good to see you posting here (don't know how I missed your earlier posts; must have zoned as to which board I was reading).

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A.G.,

I bought a 260Z to use for a project while I was home in Aug.

I've been lurking here learning about the specifics of getting the V8 in and all the little things.

I have a 400 SBC or a 327 to use, and I'm going back and forth as to whether to just use a Th350 or the 200-4R out of my Chevelle.

The 260Z is supposed to be a budget deal for giggles.

I paid $575 for the body, rust free steal of Ebay because of poor picture and description.

I bought a 400 SBC to get the deal done quickwhile I was home but still ran out of time.

The 400 came with Sportsman II's and the compression is steep for an iron headed pump gas deal. ~11-1.

The 327 is currently in the '55 Chevy that will be receiving a 5.3L LSx type motor and 4L80.

I also picked up a 4L80 for the Chevelle.

 

So...

I'm kicking the projects around mentally here in Iraq.

I don't want to tie too much into the 260Z. It was initially meant to be a fun low budget project.

Pull the 327 and Th350 from the '55, put them in the 260. Get away from the heavy cars with BBC's and go to a lightcar with a revvy SBC.

Then the 400 came along at a deal too good to pass up. So i figured I would use it. Now I may sell it, use the Sportsman II heads on the 327 ad the Th350 from the '55 to keep it on the cheap.

That'll leave me with an extra 200-4R with most of the upgrades from behind the 427, but I can always use it later on something else or in the 260 if I get tired of the TH350.

 

Anyway,

By the time I get home next year I will have enough cash to build me a pretty decent size shop and get the projects done :)

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Good deal Jake!

You will certainly have a fun car; that is a given.

Is it the early 260 (240 style), or late (280 style)?

 

I don't travel as far as you, but make a lot of 2-3 day jaunts and a few of the 2-3 month variety. Got home again this evening and found your post.

 

In keeping with your stated intent/goal of keeping it inexpensive, I like the 327 with the sportsmans and the 200-R4. If you plan on any highway driving the TH350 could get old real soon. Not a problem for a warmed 327 (except maybe gas mileage and noise levels).

 

Here is a list of Z diff ratios...

http://www.geocities.com/inlinestroker/ratio.html.

 

So now you have lots of time to plan and come up with "While I'm at its" to raise the ante... by the way, how are the brakes?... does it have an R200?... paint and interior?... maybe a little suspension work?

 

Again, welcome to the world of Z's. :-)

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