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dr_hunt

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dr_hunt last won the day on October 8 2006

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About dr_hunt

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  • Birthday 01/26/1963

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  1. Hey David,

    HZ won't be the same without you. It's a dirty rotten shame.

    Mike

  2. LOL, I think a carb in the 650 cfm size would be perfect IMO Listening and comprehending are two distinctly different subjects.
  3. The biggest problem with using the volume calculations, like was shown in an earlier post, to determine airflow capacity in relation to carb sizing is that it is not apples to apples. Manifold vacuum is at zero if the carb is sufficiently sized and above zero if it is not, it is a simple airflow dynamic situation easily calculated by standard engineering principals. Carb flow ratings are based on 4.5 inches vacuum. So, it's not apples to apples. At zero vacuum carbs, especially holley carbs flow significantly less and it has been proven time and time again. A 750 only flows about 690 cfm
  4. Kind of what I figured, a couple guides were tight. LMAO. Mine work great, I spent quite a bit of time porting the bowl areas on both the intake and exhaust sides and they work great. Mine had 2.055 valves but the seats were only cut for 2.02 valves. I had the seats cut for 2.055's. Overall I'm pretty happy with them except for the fact that I have almost as much in them as a set of AFR's. LOL
  5. I was wondering when someone was going to mention that. Some of the welding was obviously tig and the rest mig. None of those welds would likely pass inspection or testing for various reasons. If your serious about running those without worry then I'd have them sent to a lab for non-destructive testing. Weld defects that I can visibly see in the pictures effect the quality and hardness of the metal. There is lack of root fusion, lots of weld splatter and the welds are very undimensional throughout, meaning not the same width along the weld. Overall they are extremely poor welds IMO
  6. I'll work on the pantera pictures, nice car, but not show quality, this one is a driver. Interesting car though. Red z is still sitting, so is the '55, although the motor, trans and trans crossmember are now in the '55. Rad showed up the other day for '55, need to install a wiring harness in '55, not looking forward to that. Jeep is hauling A$$ as usual but the snow and lack of doors on the jeep keep it from being driven. I'm really pleased with the heads so far on that motor. The z is the next thing on my list, after roundy round racing that is.
  7. Off this next weekend to go race southern sport mod IMCA in Abilene TX. I built a motor for a guy in that class and he is letting me race his car in that series when I can. Also building a 408 cubic inch cleveland stroker for a Pantera, should be a nice build for you ford boys.
  8. Poor bastard! You have the worst luck! You'd be better off if you'd have gotten kicked in the nuts!
  9. Something a little more proven. About 600HP in street trim. http://www.falconerengines.com/bio/bio_irl.php
  10. LOL, so true, which is why advice on changing your boosters is such misleading information. They all go together, it's not as simple as most people think. Buy a carb with downleg boosters for the best signal and tune from there. Heck, buy the holley carb tuning book, written by the Pro's that built your carb and soon you'll have it all dialed in. My book is sitting on by bookshelf in my office.
  11. Belt drives don't have the durability that chains or gear drives have. Simply to say, they are without a doubt the most inferior of the three. If the belt drive is so good at removing harmonics then it also is the least accurate of the three also as the belt is stretching. Belt drives come in wet and dry versions. never run a dry belt on a street car or you run the probable chance of shredding it by debris entering between the belt and gears. Wet belts you can't see and you have to disassemble the engine to inspect unless your running a cloyes 2 piece or similar cover. For logetivity acc
  12. Simply not true. There is play in the gears which is required to run properly, that play is the reason why they will not transmit harmonics of the crank. Also there is nothing more durable than a gear drive, just ask CAT, Cummins and Detroit! Anyone who thinks otherwise is absolutley positively wrong! Chains do break and any HD application especially industrial, uses gear drive for simplicity and durabiltity. I know of several Reher-Morrison BBC's that had tchain and gears and the chains gave up, destroying the engines. I have run them in several of my personal street engines w
  13. IMO there is nothing better. The sound you speak of is really minimal compared to most exhaust notes of today's mufflers. I doubt you'd even notice it.
  14. Here is how you work on getting it right. Play with jets and once you have the main jets set, it is time to play with power valves. Install a vacuum guage, you can get a cheap hand held one from any parts store like autozone. You can put it face down to the windshield under a wiper, just make sure the hood doesn't pinch the line. Watch when your driving, like going up a slight incline at highway speeds, or accelerating slowly at highway speeds, you will notice the vacuum reading falling. As it falls, it will come to the opening point of your power valve, then pick up a little. If you have a
  15. If you will do what I have outlined above it will give you all the mpg's your going to get out of that carb. PERIOD! If people really don't have a clue about how to answer a question then don't answer it. I have a pet peeve about ridiculous answers that are completely wrong and lead people down the wrong path which directs them to spend money needlessly. You can't change boosters without special tools and knowhow, besides, you'll screw up the fuel metering circuit anyway, which are balanced by holley engineers. Why anyone would attempt to do that is a real Squirters have absolutely
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