Diagram and write up on LS 1 mounts.

[mark]

A few people were interested in my mounts. Cruez converted the file so I could post it here. Thanks Cruez! One note, the overall length is short on this drawing. Add about 2 inches for a total length of 16.5 inches. All the length is added on the 2.5 inch wide section. These mounts will work with the JTR headers that have been made to work with John’s Cars kit. I don’t know for sure but I believe the stock compressor mounting point can be maintained with these mounts. My dry sump pump mounts in the AC spot and it clears nicely. These mounts will require a cross member to be made that hangs between the frame rails. http://album.hybridz.org/showphoto.php?photo=4017&cat=500&page=3. not complete in this picture but you get the idea. I made mine so the bottom of my engine cross member is even with the bottom of the stock cross member. If I was doing this a second time, it would be a lot easier. I’ll try to make your first time easier than mine.

 

I cut the metal (3/16 inch thick steel) using a plasma cutter but these could easily be cut using an angel grinder and a cut off wheel. Mounting holes were drilled to .5 inch diameter. I laid a stock motor mount in place to use as a template.

 

This flat hockey stick shaped piece then can be bent to form the mounts.

The first bend is 4.25 inches from the top (the big end). To bend this piece, I made a cut on the back side to about ½ to 2/3's of the way thru the metal. Bent it to about 135 degrees and then bolted it to the block. Refine angle as necessary to clear block. There are a couple of bosses that can be cut off the block to help with clearance. They will be obvious.

 

When you have the angle correct, weld in the back of your bend. There will be a nice V that can be filled in easily.

 

First bend down.

 

The second bend will be harder to measure. The angle is easy but the point to bend needs some consideration. The first thing to consider is what kind of motor mounts will you be using? I used biscuit mounts from street and performance. http://www.hotrodlane.cc/ About 30 bucks I think.

 

The second consideration is your cross member height. My set up is using a dry sump so the oil pan is very shallow. I’ll give some measurements as a guide to help you get it close. If your mounts end up a little short you can shim. If they are to long, you start over.

 

My cross member is made of 1 x 2 .120 wall tubing. The bottom of the engine X member is even with the stock x member. If you use the S&P biscuits they are 1.5 inches thick. If the second bend is made at 10.75 inches from the top of the mount (big end) that will put your stock oil pan just above the new X member. Those measurements are taking in to consideration that the new X member is 3.5 inches behind the rear edge stock X member measured at the center of the stock X member. (From the rear of the little skid plate)

 

Make the cut as above, bend, attach the mounts to the motor and refine the angle. It will end up at about 90 degrees. Fill in the back side V with your welder. Now you have the hard part done. Make a gusset to brace it all together.

Passenger side mount has to be notched as shown to clear header.

On the driver’s side, I’m using a STI steering rack so my steering shaft cleared these mounts. The stock rack will require either the gusset to be notched or a hole in the gusset for the steering rod to pass thru. You are on you own there.

Usual disclaimer section. I don’t know if this will work. I think it will and one day I’ll have the car on the track and find out. Comments and criticism is welcome.

 

Mark