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280ZXT swap problems. Way to much fuel!!


pjo046

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I tried to access hybridz yesterday, but the page wouldn't open. Anyways I posted at zcar.com and have already received a few replies there, so I'll post my original thread plus the relevant answers:

 

"Last spring I sold an ECU, wiring harness, AFM and coil from a 280ZXT to a guy who wanted to install this on his already turboconverted NA, and also a set of 370cc injectors. I was originally planning to use this myself, before I figured I would take it all the way with standalone etc.

The Turbo AFM was adjusted for the injectors, as this setup had been in use on a 240Z in USA. I bought the stuff of ebay and never used it myself.

He also bought a non-egr N47 intake from me, a JSK rail, a 60mm TB and a JSK spacer. (I am going for Lonewolf Performance's custom intake etc)

 

Anyways, now the buyer has installed everything, but something is wrong. The injectors just pump out way to much fuel, even at idle, so much that the fuel pours out the downpipe.... He has had a mechanic-friend test the injectors, and they are working properly, so the problem is not that they are stuck open. He has tried adjusting the AFM, but nothing happens. He has tried to install a smaller AFM(Just to test if the Turbo-afm was shot) but the fuel still is as much excessive. So he figures the AFM can't be the problem either.

 

What can cause this? Is it likely the ECU is broken? Or that some wires in the wiring harness isn't working? (Or not installed the correct way perhaps. He used a lot of time to connect things properly, and I'm not sure if he has done everything correctly or not. He lives in the other side of the country, so I can't help him out much) I really need help on this!!! Every ideas are greatly appreciated!!!"

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- Head temp sensor not hooked up, too much fuel pressure. Darren

 

Me: I follow you with the too high fuel pressure. But regarding the headtemp sensor, it should run fine untill the engine has warmed up if this was the problem. Also by the way, he said that when he closed the flapper on the AFM shut, the fuel would still be excessive...

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"there's nothing in the setup that hasn't been done before. i ran the 370's with a tightened maf with no problems except at part throttle which was related to timing rather than fuel. you can also run the efi setup this way with lowered fuel pressure. i ran mine down to 22psi fp at idle. it ran fine and took care of the surging i had.

 

you can get too much fuel from the following:

 

bad fpr - check fp

 

faulty, not connected, bad wiring chts. with it disconnected you'll get a full cold reading which will add a lot of fuel. easily enough to do what you're describing. always check at the ecu to eliminate the wiring.

 

make sure the afm was adjusted the correct way. make the screw inside didn't come loose. make sure it isn't jammed or binding. check the voltage from the afm at the ecu. have him back out the idle air bypass screw all the way. Bernard"

 

"Bottom line is that the setup will work no question about that. The guy needs to check every point in the system, and every sensor input, like Bernard said, AT THE ECU!

My car when it was stock, if the AFM was disconnected would pour fuel to the engine, so much that it would smoke almost raw fuel, when I did get it to start at all.

So tell the guy to calm down, get a 280zx FSM with schematic, depending on the year 81, 82-83 and pin out the sensors BEFORE he gets all uptight about the "piece of crap you sold him. JeffP"

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Oh, one more thing. He says that when he revs the engine, it gets worse, i.e. more fuel pours out through the downpipe. Anybody get any wiser as to what the problem is from this information?

 

Could the TPS being improperly set be the problem?

I'm just throwing out suggestions here as I myself have no idea...

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I don't know if fuel runs down the pipe with this hooked up wrong, but the most obvious is the cranking enrichment wire to the ECU gets connected to constant 12 volts and the things puts way too much fuel in. That wire is only suppose to get 12 volts during cranking, not running. That may not be it, but I wired that wrong on my first swap and will never forget it.

 

I believe that is the yellow wire in PLUG #2 labeled as the "start signal" in the 280zx turbo swap wiring guide.

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