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HybridZ

Need electrical help to finish 460ZX


Guest ModToad

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Guest ModToad

Hey gang,

 

I've now got a '68 289/302 V8 with C4 installed in my 85 NA 5spd 300ZX 2+2. The install was absolutely painless (re used the VG30's mounts) with no real interference issues. Granted the exhaust manifolds and exhaust have not been installed yet, so some ... massaging ... of the tranny tunnel will be necessary, but not much.

 

Anywho, I was wondering if anyone has an online reference for the underdash wiring and chassis electrical.

 

The Z31 chassis was stripped roughly, so a lot of the wiring is not intact. I'm going to have to point-to-point the headlights, signals, P/windows, horn, ignition and anything else I'm forgetting.

 

Thanks

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Guest ModToad

Sure Trevor

 

I'll try and snap some pics tonight while I'm at the shop.

 

 

All we did (I'll try and illustrate with words LOL) ... On the 289 (not a Ford guy, so this is the first SBF I've had this much time with)

 

The mounts are 3 piece. We tossed the SBF mounts all together. But the original mounts went into the block vertically from underneath, rather than into the side of the block like the Nissan.

 

MotorMount-289-66.jpg

 

Looking at this pic, the wings with the holes in them are where the mounts bolt to the block, with the bolts up from underneath.

 

By leaving the original rubber mounts in the K-frame (but with the engine brackets, the metal parts removed) and lowering the engine in, we realized that by using the stock location of everything, there was enough room to play with.

 

I had to swap to a rear-sump mustang pan and relocate the pickup, but all Fox-body generation Mustangs are rear sump.

 

The front mini sump (oil pump) sits about 1/2" above the Kframe and PS lines using this mount configuration.

 

The rubber mounts sit at a bit of an angle to the block, and about 1.5-2" out from the stock V8 mount location.

 

To make the new "mounts" all we did was take flat steel stock, drill two holes in it so it would bolt to the block. Then we put the plates in a vise, and bent them until they sat flush on the VG mount. Then we just drilled a hole in the middle of the new plate to sit on the original bolt coming up through the rubber biscuit mount. I still have triangulate the mount to give it more rigidity.

 

If you went this route, you could easily slot the center hole (or just offset it) to move the engine forwards or backwards.

 

I chose to leave mine dead center. I had to remove the rad shroud to clear the crank pulley, and I doubt I can use a static fan, but other than that, the clearances are beautiful.

 

I had to reuse the stock OEM manifolds.

 

FP115.jpg

 

You may be in even more luck. Turns out the newer style windsor 302s went to a smaller starter/bellhousing. I couldn't run the GT40 headers I have (dammit!) because they interfere with the starter and the bellhousing.

 

65_th.jpg

 

These headers would make everything soooo much easier, but I don't want to have to pull everything, source out a tranny, etc etc. I have to have this car done soon.

 

That would give you even more room for the exhaust, and when I mocked it up with the GT40s, it still cleared the steering no problem.

 

As it stands, my exhaust is going to have to do a straight 90º down right off the manifolds to clear everything. The stock 289 manifolds point straight back and exit facing the firewall. The only real issue is that the tranny output shaft ends before the hole in the Zs floor for the shifter!! That's going to be one long driveshaft!!

 

With a low profile aluminum intake and 4bbl, the hood will close without much interference.

 

Anyway, a few pics will clear this up way better than my muddy writing.

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