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HybridZ

ebrakes for rear


Guest scca

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i to use no ebrake on my convt.

 

what i am in the process of doing is using a

VW dunebuggy park lock and will test that as a functional ebrake.

i have used the wilwood spot calipers a few times on customer cars who wanted a fully functional LEGAL ebrake. to meet DOT it must NOT be hydraulic and must be mechanical.

Baers cailpers are ugly they are similar to a vette caliper,

i havent found a nice billet caliper that contains a ebrake, it cant be done, the 300 with real calipers uses shoes inside the rotor ALA early vette as the ebrakes this isnt a easy thing to put on a early Z and definintely not cheap enough to do to resell.

 

the park lock works. so as long as you dont need to go thru a inspection its fine and cheap at around $40

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Mike, thanks for that info. It's great having someone here that's tried all this stuff.

 

I went for the ebrake for a strange reason. The car has to go to the body shop and it won't be able to be run since I'm going to mask the engine off etc. They'll be pushing it around and I want them to be able to yank the ebrake to stop/hold it. I also like having an ebrake in case anything funny happens to all the new brake stuff I've put on the car.

 

[This message has been edited by pparaska (edited September 08, 2000).]

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How about using a in-line hydraulic brake lock, JC Whitney sells these. It uses the line pressure to hold your rear brakes locked. You press your brake peddle, push down on the in-line lock button, which you would mount through the floor,relese your brake peddle and it's locked. When you step on your brake peddle again it unlocks.It's only $24.95, or $26.95 for silicone brake fluid. Part numbers are:

85EL6592Y

73EL4432T - for silicone.

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a inline line lock is now called a park lock.

they are "intended " as a way to lock the brakes on a dune buggy when trailering.

 

i always leave my car in gear so its fine for me as a ebrake.

i wouildnt buy the cheapest one there is though.......

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Mike, what about something NOT billet? I've got a set of your brakes for a 5lug conversion - will I have NO parking brake? I've not pulled it out of the box yet to be honest (grin).

 

Personally I'm not real hung up on the billet stuff. If it's aluminum I can polish it myself if I have the urge or go with some of the new brake paints. I'm mostly interested in functionality and am not going to run slotted or drilled rotors either.

 

Leaving it in gear is a good idea but on a hill popping out of gear is possible, especially if someone taps the car parking in front or behind you. It also puts some stress on the drivetrain that I'd prefer to avoid. There's also nothing so thrilling as losing your brakes to make you glad you've got an E-brake (shiver). At least with a stick you can downshift!

 

What about these tiny rotors that bolt the front of differentails? Too big? I've forgotten where my rear calipers were sourced from, Mike I think you had told me. If they were from the front of another car then yeah I'm going to be head scratching on this one too I'm afraid!

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Just a tid bit here. The rears on a fiero are e-brake integrated and aluminum. Check it out as a possible solution? I had my bigger 260Z aluminum drums drilled and vented. They work great and no pedal fade problems.

 

------------------

Drewz

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